I installed the Enduro Engineering Grip Heaters this weekend. It was a siple and sanitary instalation on my FE570S.
First, the instalation of the grip heaters themselves is self explanatory, so I'm not going to write about that. The instalation of the wiring and mounting the switch is a little more challenging, so I'll address that.
First I removed the headlight and number plate from the bike. Then, since I had removed the aluminum reflector bracket from the rear fender, i used that to mount the grip heaters switch. I mounted the switch on the right side of the bike directly even with the ignition switch behind the number plate. utilizing a hack saw, I cut a piece out of the rear reflector bracket (which I had removed from my bike permenantly). I left the original mounting screw hole intact on the bracket intact. I then re-drilled the mounting hole making it large enough to fit around the threaded portion of the ingnition bolt mount which is visible coming off of the top triple clamp. The ignition mount bolt extends through this threaded mount approximately 1/4 inch, so I utilized this bolt to mount the bracket for the new switch by placing my new bracket on the backside of the mount and attaching it with a nut to the original equipment bolt extending through the mount. After re-drilling the reflector mount, I used a file to notch the top edge of the bracket allowing it to rotate to the rear of the bike a little allowing seperation between the ignition switch bracket and the bracket I was installing. I also filed the front of the bracket to match the angle of the ignition switch bracket. Then I drilled a 15/32 hole at the bottom of my new bracket and mounted the grip heater toggle switch. This placed the toggle switch behind the edge of the number plate and immediately to the left of the ignition key. The location is perfectly out of sight, the aluminum bracket hanging down is almost invisible, and the switch is completely protected from brush and the worst of the weather at this location. One caution though, make sure you make the bracket long enough to place the switch at the ignition switch's level. If you place it higher up, it will interfere with the headlamp/number plate mounting strap.
Now to wire the switch. I followed the directions and mounted the resistor using silicone to the lower triple clamp immediately in front of the head tube and directly behind the headlamp. It is a nicely protected location which is invisible after you put the headlamp back on the bike. I then needed a 12v power source that was regulated and controlled by the ignition switch. Utilizing a voltage meter, I determined the orange wire at the ignition switch met these requirements. I disconnected the Ignition switch plug, and slid the orange wire's pin out of its socket. I then soldered the grip heater power lead to the backside of the pin at the connection for the orange wire. I took a drill and opened up the hole at the back side of the white connector that holds the orange wire and where the pin inserts. I was careful not to dril all the way through the connector and damage the pins smaller mounting hole, I was also careful not to break the barrier between the orange wire and the surrounding wires. This hole has to be enlarged a little because it is now holding two wires and not just one. After expanding the hole, I re-spread the push pin locking wings, and itilizing a small dental pick, I pushed the orange wire with the new grip heater wire soldered to it back into it's original place in the connector. I then plugged in the two power wires for the grip heaters on the wire lugs on the toggle, and I checked the voltage. Everything was perfect. I secured all of the wiring to the original Husaberg loom using zip ties, and placed the headlamp/numberplate back on the bike.
Fully mounted, the switch is almost invisible, and easily reached right beside of the ignition switch. And, if someone did notice the switch, the aluminum bracket made from the reflector mount looks great and almost like a factory switch mount.
First, the instalation of the grip heaters themselves is self explanatory, so I'm not going to write about that. The instalation of the wiring and mounting the switch is a little more challenging, so I'll address that.
First I removed the headlight and number plate from the bike. Then, since I had removed the aluminum reflector bracket from the rear fender, i used that to mount the grip heaters switch. I mounted the switch on the right side of the bike directly even with the ignition switch behind the number plate. utilizing a hack saw, I cut a piece out of the rear reflector bracket (which I had removed from my bike permenantly). I left the original mounting screw hole intact on the bracket intact. I then re-drilled the mounting hole making it large enough to fit around the threaded portion of the ingnition bolt mount which is visible coming off of the top triple clamp. The ignition mount bolt extends through this threaded mount approximately 1/4 inch, so I utilized this bolt to mount the bracket for the new switch by placing my new bracket on the backside of the mount and attaching it with a nut to the original equipment bolt extending through the mount. After re-drilling the reflector mount, I used a file to notch the top edge of the bracket allowing it to rotate to the rear of the bike a little allowing seperation between the ignition switch bracket and the bracket I was installing. I also filed the front of the bracket to match the angle of the ignition switch bracket. Then I drilled a 15/32 hole at the bottom of my new bracket and mounted the grip heater toggle switch. This placed the toggle switch behind the edge of the number plate and immediately to the left of the ignition key. The location is perfectly out of sight, the aluminum bracket hanging down is almost invisible, and the switch is completely protected from brush and the worst of the weather at this location. One caution though, make sure you make the bracket long enough to place the switch at the ignition switch's level. If you place it higher up, it will interfere with the headlamp/number plate mounting strap.
Now to wire the switch. I followed the directions and mounted the resistor using silicone to the lower triple clamp immediately in front of the head tube and directly behind the headlamp. It is a nicely protected location which is invisible after you put the headlamp back on the bike. I then needed a 12v power source that was regulated and controlled by the ignition switch. Utilizing a voltage meter, I determined the orange wire at the ignition switch met these requirements. I disconnected the Ignition switch plug, and slid the orange wire's pin out of its socket. I then soldered the grip heater power lead to the backside of the pin at the connection for the orange wire. I took a drill and opened up the hole at the back side of the white connector that holds the orange wire and where the pin inserts. I was careful not to dril all the way through the connector and damage the pins smaller mounting hole, I was also careful not to break the barrier between the orange wire and the surrounding wires. This hole has to be enlarged a little because it is now holding two wires and not just one. After expanding the hole, I re-spread the push pin locking wings, and itilizing a small dental pick, I pushed the orange wire with the new grip heater wire soldered to it back into it's original place in the connector. I then plugged in the two power wires for the grip heaters on the wire lugs on the toggle, and I checked the voltage. Everything was perfect. I secured all of the wiring to the original Husaberg loom using zip ties, and placed the headlamp/numberplate back on the bike.
Fully mounted, the switch is almost invisible, and easily reached right beside of the ignition switch. And, if someone did notice the switch, the aluminum bracket made from the reflector mount looks great and almost like a factory switch mount.
