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Installed progressive rear spring, now front is deflecting

Joined Oct 2005
935 Posts | 21+
Texas
Ok Taffy, KTMlew, and anyone else with an opinion, check this out.

I've been on and back off so many suspension bandwagons over the years, it's not even funny. My latest foray is into the world of the new progressive rear springs special built for us "big boys". I have installed a Factory Connection FCHW, which is rated at 9.0-11.5.

Good News: I get great sag numbers with very little preload right out of the box. The back feels very nice--still tracks straight and plush on the small stuff and has much better bottoming resistance, which was my main issue with the straight rate. I was running a 9.0.

Bad News: Since the installation of the rear spring, the front end now has some NASTY deflection under some circumstances. It'll punt you right off the trail if you hit something just right. It NEVER exhibited this trait before. It was nice and plush to the point of almost being too soft.

I am running .46 springs in the front. I am using all the travel, just like I should. Maybe I need .48's? What's going on here? I know front and rear work together, and that changes at one end can affect the other.

Ideas and theories please. Thanks!
 
Hi Johnf3
from what you are describing you light on the rebound try to screw in rebound adj.
ultimately you may have to install some more shims in the rebound stack more so in the
bottoming piston reasons for this is that you are storing more energy and that energy
opens the stack to far result is that the rebound is too fast pushing the front of the
bike down resulting that you getting too far into the travel of the fork which felt like
harshness and deflection
try the simple first screw in the rebound you may have to turn it in 10 clicks or more
before you notice a difference obviously stock shock and fork adjustment guidelines
no longer apply remember the golden rule do only one adjustment at the time

Good luck VIKING
 
john

viking's the man on stuff like that.....

i'm right on the edge of needing a 9-11 as well. so the back end may need to be stiffer, in the meantime at the front my figures are still showing .48s as just a bit too hard.

may try a 46 and 48 mix soon.

good luck!

Taffy
 
Thanks guys. I'll dial up some more rebound in the front. I hate that I messed up a perfectly working front end by fixing the back.
 
John and Viking,

Doesn't he need to slow down the rebound on the rear spring at this point instead of attacking the front?

If you have to mess with your "perfectly working front" do it one step at the time and document all so you can go back.

Hakan
 
Hakan said:
John and Viking,

Doesn't he need to slow down the rebound on the rear spring at this point instead of attacking the front?

If you have to mess with your "perfectly working front" do it one step at the time and document all so you can go back.

Hakan

Maybe I didn't explain it clear, or perhaps I'm not understanding what you are saying, but the problem with the front came about AFTER I installed the new spring on the back. The front was working well before I installed the rear spring, but not now.

Are you saying that adding rebound to the back will help the deflection in the front?
 
what hakan's saying is that you've misread viking's post. he is asking you to add rebound to the rear because the spring is that much stronger.

i think it means that with the rear tipped up you have to lean over further to get around a corner and turn the steering more to do it. thus the wash out.

when you brake into a corner and the shock is almost neutral (like when nobody is sat on the bike) pushing you up is easy for the rear spring so it can pop you up.

the results of this i've mentioned above.

you know what vikings english is like!!!!!

still it's better than my swedish!

regards

Taffy
 
Johnf3

My take on vikings advice it that he is suggesting increasing the rebound dampening on the rear to slow the rear end return rate down and therefore slow the rate of weight transfer from rear to front which he feels is over loading your front end - resulting in the fork being loaded and harsh and therefore prone to deflecting.

I agree with him for what its worth - stay away from the forks for now and see if you can get your handling back tweaking the rear end, only.

Mark
 
John,

Taffy is right, I think you misread Viking's advice. You absolutely have to dial up the rebound on the rear shock. At this point leave the front alone. I'm at an advantage here since I understand Viking's Swenglish.

Hakan
 
Hakan said:
John,

Taffy is right, I think you misread Viking's advice. You absolutely have to dial up the rebound on the rear shock. At this point leave the front alone. I'm at an advantage here since I understand Viking's Swenglish.

Hakan

Taffy,
The fronts not washing out, it is deflecting off off big bumps instead of absorbing them.

I will hopefully get out Sunday to ride/test. I will report back.
 
my forks deflected a lot back in '02! but we've discovered the wheel since then.

however my forks would deteriorate and deflect badly if i hadn't chnaged the oil on them aand serviced them?

could this be your problem?

could be the shims are getting bent etc. bushes worn and seals contaminated. most of all though - the oil.

keep us informed mate.

regards

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
my forks deflected a lot back in '02! but we've discovered the wheel since then.

however my forks would deteriorate and deflect badly if i hadn't chnaged the oil on them aand serviced them?

could this be your problem?

could be the shims are getting bent etc. bushes worn and seals contaminated. most of all though - the oil.

keep us informed mate.

regards

Taffy

Before I posted, I completely disassembled the front fork, took the stacks apart to make sure there was no debris in between the shims, cleaned everything to like new condition, and re-assembled with new oil. Everything looked good, no bent shims, bushings showed little if any wear.

The old oil still looked perfect.

Off to test and ride tomorrow.
 
Update from a good hard 50 mile ride yesterday. Our riding area is just off the Caprock in West Texas, site of the annual Lone Star Enduro for those who have been here. Conditions consist of lots of decomposed limestone rocks, some loose, some embedded. A true litmus test for suspension, that's for sure.

We also have deep sand washes (very tight) and some faster, more open terrain as well.

I went ahead and dialed in some rebound on the back shock. I ended up slowing down the rebound until I was 4 turns from fully seated. This did help my deflection issues at the front to a satisfactory extent. The trade off is a slightly more "dead" feeling with the shock. Overall, I have to say it is a big improvement.

I do believe that setting the suspension up to handle the specialized requirements of big rocks is hard to do if your goal is a bike that works resonably in all conditions. Since I do travel around the region and ride in all conditions, I think I'll have to compromise and call it good for now. The next step would be to go into the valving, which I may do at some point.

Thanks to everyone for your input and help.
 

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