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Imprtance of an in tank fuel filter?

R

rx7turbo2

Joined Jan 2013
4 Posts | 0+
Canada
I recently picked up a used (90hrs) 2009 450fe.

Previous owner never had a single issue with the bike in regards to fuel. However I decided to go over the system with a fine tooth comb and make sure it was up to snuff.

I replaced the pump, replaced the injector. I got rid of the in tank filter. Instead adding an external Can Am filter. So that now the series of filtration is as follows: Filler neck "sock" filter, "basket" filter on base of fuel pump, external Can Am filter, small stock in hose filter before injector.

I went this route because ditching the in tank filter and adding an external one allowed me to change the filter with ease and on a more regular basis. However it was brought to my attention that by removing the in tank filter I have left the pressure regulator relatively unprotected.

I understand the basic principle of how the regulator works, is the "basket" filter on the base of the pump sufficient in protecting the regulator? Or should an in tank filter really be added back in the mix?
 
If the in-tank filter in mine was completely black in 50 hours of use, and by removing that you are willingly to let all the unfiltered crap to enter in the pump. The base filter on the pump base is very coarse and won't catch anything other than small rocks.

I would put a new Mahle filter in the tank, remove the external can am and pre-injector filter to keep sufficient fuel pressure in the system. If any of those filter gets stuck or clogged you are loosing pressure and injector would not work properly. Filler sock + OEM in tank filter is enough filtration imo.

I have almost 100 hours on stock pump and injector, no issues. Always put plugs on the fuel line connectors when removing tank to keep things clean.
 
The OEM in-tank inline filter does not filter fuel entering the pump. The gauze filter 'basket' on the pump base does this. That's why, IMO, it's important to run a filter sock in the tank neck to prevent crap getting into the tank in the first place. The inline filter in the tank filters fuel coming out of the pump under pressure on the way to the injector via the pressure regulator. This filter was fitted for a reason. Fit an additional inline filter if you wish (unnecessary IMO) but I'd replace the in-tank filter.
 
How would junk get past the filler sock (20u) in order to get into your pump?

I just fitted the filler sock, and I really don't like how it slows down my filling of tank.
 
Aww lol I forgot how it was setup. So yeah the basket filter prevents biggest crap getting into the pump and the in-line filter after pump filters smallest stuff so injector gets clean fuel.
 
What do I need to buy and where do I get it?
I had a problem wit fuell once not so long ago and had to clean everything pump/injector/replace spark plug wire.
 
Rensho said:
How would junk get past the filler sock (20u) in order to get into your pump?

I just fitted the filler sock, and I really don't like how it slows down my filling of tank.
Click to expand...

Junk can't get past the filter sock, that's why I recommended using one in my first post. I've also found it slows down tank filling but what do you want? A couple of extra minutes at the filling station or the risk of a clogged or damaged fuel pump and premature clogging of the in tank filter? Sounds like an easy trade off to me.

HusaBELGfs570 said:
What do I need to buy and where do I get it?
I had a problem wit fuell once not so long ago and had to clean everything pump/injector/replace spark plug wire.
Click to expand...

The OEM inline filter in the tank is available from a Husaberg dealer but I also found certain Ducati models use EXACTLY the same part. The difficult part of changing this filter is getting the pipes off the old one without damaging them as they appear to be shrunk on.
When I had the pump changed under warranty it came complete with new filter and pipes already connected. That's when I started using the tank filler sock.
 
I have seen on the bergos website you can get the sock/tank filter but expensive .... (costs me almost 50€ with shipping).
Wel maybe I have to...
 
HusaBELGfs570 said:
I have seen on the bergos website you can get the sock/tank filter but expensive .... (costs me almost 50€ with shipping).
Wel maybe I have to...
Click to expand...

I bought mine from dealer for 40€... stupid idea, but did not know any better alternative at that time.

Now they are all over eBay, Mahle KL 97:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fuel-filt...WDVW&rd=1&ih=008&category=108833&cmd=ViewItem


Buy at least 2 at the same time. You also need submersible fuel line, Gates #27093 with 5/16" (7,9mm) ID and stainless steel mini-ABA fuel hose clamps. The stock molded fuel lines will break when you try to remove the filter and you can't re-use them anymore. Just change the line from pump to filter and from filter to regulator, and you are good to go.

It's gonna be a tight fit with the new lines as it's a bit bigger in size, so watch for any kinks when stuffing all in the tank.
 
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Ummm....thats not in-tank filter. :idea:

It's a useless filter inside injector body. Thats one way to get problems if it gets stuck or clogged. There was a recall a year or so ago when people put those pre-injector filters in. The heat nearby injector from motor collapsed that filter and there was slow pressure drop to a point when not enough fuel could flow anymore. Also the filtration on some of those filters were too fine and that caused same problems.

My dealer called me last year and asked that do I bring the bike to them, or just send the updated filter kit and o-rings so I can do the install myself. Told them to send the stuff to me...haven't opened the bag yet. :mrgreen:
 
maKe said:
The stock molded fuel lines will break when you try to remove the filter and you can't re-use them anymore. Just change the line from pump to filter and from filter to regulator, and you are good to go.
Click to expand...

I pulled the hoses off and they look alright to me. Maybe I was lucky? I haven't fitted the new filter yet, but my plan is to use 2 small hose clamps.
 
You had to have destroyed the clamps before when doing so. I did that too but the hoses were so tightly around the barbs that I had to cut them open to be able to pull them. Figured out that I should do it properly with real fuel lines and hose clamps to make the job easier in the future.

Don't know how well the old hoses seal when installed again with clamps. They are hard plastic that won't compress really well like rubber hose.
 
Yes, that's exactly what I did. The hoses seems soft enough (I have a 2012 so that might help?), but I guess a small leak might suck in air so I will check it before I assemble the lot. If I feel uncertain about it I guess I do what you done and change out the hoses too.
 
It's quite simple to do if you plan to change the hoses. It's going to be little tighter to fit back everything inside the tank, so cut the hoses first a bit longer and then shorten them if necessary so they fit nicely in the tank without kinks.
 
I have the filter sock and sure it's a little slower filling the tank but who cares? It's worth the time for piece of mind.
 

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