I'm not fat, I'm big boned

You could fit mousses front and rear lot lighter then heavy duty tubes, How about going for daytime mot and doing away with your lights, no real need for them just keep the bloke in front of you in sight lol, Do you need all the plastic's you might save a few pounds there. Lol

why not try the new system available. i have no links but basically you have a tiny, tiny tube that follows the nipples on the inside of the wheels, you pump it up and it seals the rim. so you're tubeless after this.

alloy sprocket rea

carbon guards

no barkbusters just handguards

old style 5/8th" bars

number plate front instead of headlamp

chain guard on top=gone

chain rollers - necessary?

sidestand off

ti system

alloy bolts around the bike?

drill the engine for lightness (a lie) don't drill the engine plates!!!

regards

Taffy

i recall seeing this system twice at the show and one was as you say and the other got around it by using the schrader valve as usual.

a Ti system would only be found on a racer and then you need to get a silencer off another bike.

all body wrok in CF is a start.

regards

Taffy

Nuetech makes the TUBliss system where you fill the tire through the rim lock via a schrader valve. www.nuetech.com
I have installed several of these for guys who are using Trials tires on their offroad race bikes. They love it. I'll stick to Tire Balls, way more traction.

I can't find the actual weight of the nuetech it sounds impressive but what does an 18" or a 21" version actually weigh?

for the money It needs to be 400gm total (including their rimlock) or else just run light duty michelin tubes and use stainless self tappers for a rimlock

the wheels are the most noticable part to lighten, im running a lil 8 paddel cheng shin with 4 bolts a paddle, 2 kg lighter than my scat trac, makes the bike feel (more) like a 250

the berg doesn't need to be heavy but it is. our frame/subframe/airbox is lighter than an 08 kx250s version of the same, the KX engine is 3kg lighter but overall the KX is around 10kg lighter Im gonna find that husaberg lead ballast weight somewhere someday!

a target of 110kg wet should'nt be too expensive and is lighter than the 450s Ive weighed, under 100kg might be a little pricey

http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?name= ... ic&p=95423

the frame has an extra 4-5kg of airbox it doesn't need but then you need to make an airbox, say 1.5kg of composites

the huge subframe is overdesigned but you would be lucky to save 1kg there.

the exhaust system is heavy and the swingarms vary in weight a lot i have one 4.5kg one and a 5kg one.

let us know if you find some heavy bits

train hard
eat well
make race day the easiest day of the week.

nsman,thats way too sensible....you've gotta be kidding!!!
most of us are old has been's
we've gotta cheat whenever we can!!
nothing like roosting these young bucks,mate its gotta be there turn,i've breathed in that much crap over the years i could make a sand pit for the kids.
phuck the training....haven't trained seriously for 20+ years..way too hard.
couldn't be my fault.... must be the bike that is the problem... gotta be... surely...
now lads where were we? ... i forgot!
pass us another beer & a ciger will ya.
..weed..

don't do as i do.....do as i say...

something like that!

regards

Taffy

thinking about it the best weight saving after removing all the crap and lightening the tyres/exhaust would be to cut out the square box section airbox replace it with a thin 38mm cromoly tube and run a pod filter like Taffy.

removing that airbox should save around 4 kg without spending heaps of cash on Ti and its top heavy weight that you would be removning too

weed I hear ya mate trainings for light beer drinkers the only training I do is work and riding just got a new pair of boots the blooday things are 2kg heavier than me old ones.

Lightwieght battery. I just bought the Turntech and it saved about a pound.

What is the weight savings from steel to aluminum sprockets? I run
the Iron Man sprockets.
I also run Bridgestone Ultra heavy duty tubes and I know they are heavy.
I have gone this route of durable parts because I ride alone at times on
60+ mile off road loops.

Pollo

try a straight chain and not an 'O' ring. interestingly enough, someone a coupla years ago put a link here up for a site that said that half the chain manufacturers were conmen and that an 'O' ring lasted no longer than an open one.

regards

Taffy

all my old X or O ring chains are worn because the little rollers are shagged, the actual pins and their cases protected by the orings are always fine might be something in that taffy, don't buy a Ti chain though.

Ive been designing a new frame (geeze that sounds terribly officious orrite ive been thinking about it all the time) since i cut my steering head of and re welded it 50mm further out.

reworking the whole thing is the way to go but not for ridgity, the berg engine has its output shaft very low down in relation to the bottom of the cases so if you want a lower COG without mucking up the swingarm angle like every other bike has (they get 300 -320mm ground clearence vs 380mm for the berg) you need to rework the layout and the swingarm and the tripples and the .............

replacing the big square section with a thin 38mm tube will reduce the torsional stiffness of that section and alter how the frame can flex in that regard.

FWIW I don't think this would be bad, perhaps an improvement if you can notice at all and I don't beleive it will influence the stiffness in any other direction by any significant amount. you could still go up to a 50mm 1.3mm thick tube but it wouldn't save much weight. only about 2kg

the lower part of the frame is probably lacking a little but its at the other end and not taking much of the big loads more fatigue from vibrations. pull the tank/seat off and have a look at how the loads of a jump landing are distributed

also take a look at the steel framed YZ s, the old school 2 strokes , the husquavarna frames and for somethng different the new BMW and the gas gas range. our frame is plenty beefy compared to the last 2

jockular said:

I hear what yer saying pollo, for me durability is also important as i tend to hit the hills alone, i suppose theres always going to be trade off between weight and reliability.
Bushie, i like your idea of replaciing the airbx/top frame spar with a lighter tube, but dont you think that the bike gains most of its rigidity from this spar? the down tubes are quite weedy and im not sure if they would take up the extra flex, some people already have a problem with engine mounts cracking, i wonder if this would add to the problem. I think if your going to start doing major frame surgery you going to have to almost rework the whole thing.
cheers,
Jock.

Click to expand...

do you want light, strong or cheap? Pick any 2.

spot on cypher that sentance lis like a mery go round

jock I think the engine mounts cracking is more a problem with the silly design, both mine cracked 10 hours after I removed the counterbalancer, I made stronger ones.

there is also some air sprung suspension that pops up on ebay UK every so often that claims to save 9kg I don't believe that personally it might be 9kg total wieght.

my TTX shock is 1.5kg lighter than the WP one but my wallet is $1000 lighter

Titanium springs aren't that expensive.

And of course once you have cut or modded a frame, you had a) better be bloody confident with the work, and b) have a few bucks set aside for re-engineering it if you want to keep rego on it.

went through that with a sidecar outfit, and it was one hell of a process, lots of legal hurdles.

Azza.