I'm at a loss, what should I do to get this bike running?

jimmydean · Nov 27, 2004

I have a '96 FC400. It has never started easy, but I blew out my knee last time I rode it because I kicked it for about 45 minutes to get it running after I stalled it on the trail. I rode it back to the truck and loaded up, it hasn't started since.

Here is a list of everything I have tried:
Cleaned carb
Cleaned and re-oiled filter
Changed spark plug
Checked valve clearence
Checked spark while trying to start (good)

Tried every possible starting procedure listed on this site
Tried every idle screw setting
Tried every mixture screw setting

When I kick it, it doesn't even sound like it's trying to start. I put in an Iridium plug to see if that might make it easier to start, no deal. I have never used the choke before, but that doesn't do anything either. I have no idea where I should go from here. I have only had the bike a few months and the guy I bought it from started it every time with about 3 kicks.

As it is right now:
The carb is stock jetting
Fuel mixture is 2 1/2 turns out
Idle screw is 6 turns out

Everyone I ride with has zero issues starting their bike and I'm left kicking way too much. My knee can't take much more of this. I love the way this bike rides, but if it takes this much work to ride it, it may not be worth it when I'm too sore to ride.

Please help, I don't want to have to sell it (and won't get much for it if it won't start either). Thanks.

schwim · Nov 27, 2004

RE: the ride that wouldn't...

Hi JimmyDean,

Firstly, could you let us know your location? We may have a member near you that can help first-hand.

Secondly, have you put any starter fluid/fuel directly into the plug hole? That would be my first thought. If I had spark, I'd try to get it to pop off w/some starter fluid or gas. If that happens, then we can move on to the fuel system. There have been people who can see a spark, but it still wasn't strong enough to run the bike.

My brother had this problem, and it was a blown head gasket, if I remember correctly(it's been a very long time). Just something to think about.

Please let us know your location and status when you "directly inject" the engine

thanks,
json

jimmydean · Nov 27, 2004

I live in Forest Grove, OR. It's about 30 minutes from Portland on the way to the coast.

I tried some starter fluid in the carb, but not in the plug hole. If the head gasket was bad, I would think the oil would have water in it and it doesn't. It was running great when I shut it off. I wish I was near a hill so I could try to bump start it. I didn't look at the plug while starting, I just used a timming light to show me it was firing when kicked.

If I screw the idle screw nearly all the way out, it sounds a little more like it will start, but still no luck.

What should I use as a default setting for the mixture and idle screw? I have been trying everything between 2-3 turns on mix and 5 to nearly out on the idle screw.

LINEAWEAVER · Nov 27, 2004

Hi Jimmydean,
Often is the case with incorrect carburetor adjustment that starting is an issue.

The short version based on your description and all else remaining equal:
When the low speed air / fuel mixture is incorrect and / or the idle speed set too high the throttle stop screw will be turned in excessively resulting in a very week carburetor signal during cranking. Engaging what most perceive to be the choke will further reduce said signal as it is actually an air / fuel enrichment circuit which along with additional fuel bleeds in surplus air.

Where to start:
Completely warm up the engine via normal riding. Optimize your idle air fuel ratio while maintaining an idle speed of roughly 1400 - 1600 rpm. This may require you to alter your idle fuel jet, idle mixture screw setting and / or metering rod selection and height. Once the idle speed and mixture are correct you will be operating with a minimum of throttle opening during idle and cranking consequently improving the carburetors discharge signal.

Hope this helps.

Best Regards,
Dale

berger · Nov 27, 2004

JD,
First I think I would return the carb settings to the positions they were in the last time it ran.
What does the spark look like?
Is there any fuel on the spark plug after you have been trying to start it?
Have you checked compression?
When you checked the valve clearence was it correct?
If you have fuel, spark and compression with proper timing, it has to fire.
I would suspect some kind of compression issue, tuliped valves or perhaps a stuck compression ring.

Keep us informed.
Ken

jmumme · Nov 27, 2004

Hard Start 400

Berger wrote:If you have fuel, spark and compression with proper timing, it has to fire.

I would also like to add Air.
Does it have a fresh air filter?
Is the exaust clear?
Are the jets clean?
Is the kill switch defective? How good is the spark?
Is the gas good?

John

Splat · Nov 27, 2004

Hi jimmie,

I don't believe in kicking my bike until I can't walk, so if my bike doesn't start quickly, I tow start it. Hook a rope to it (usually on a footpeg) and have a car or motorcycle pull me at 15. I put it in fourth gear, no choke, and slip the clutch out and vroom; it starts. I have done this 3 or 4 times and it works perfectly each time.

Once it is running and warm, adjust your carb. Make sure your idle is accurate. Remember, if using an electronic tach, four stroke motorcycles get a spark each revolution, unlike other four strokes.

jimmydean · Nov 27, 2004

I'm going to take it in on Monday. I went to bump start it and the clutch grabs too much now even when adjusted all the way in. So I will let the shop take a look at it, them swap out the clutch for an automatic (like I've been wanting to since I bought it).

If only I could switch it to electric start, I'd be set. Thanks for the help, but so far nothing has worked and since I can't even push start it, I'll stop here. I just wish such a nice bike wasn't such a pain in my ***.

logjump · Nov 27, 2004

Hey Jimmydean,
If you are going to take your bike into a shop, let me suggest the best dirt bike mechanic in the Portland area. His name is Rick Bozarth, former mechanic of Gresham KTM/Husaberg and the fastest off-road rider in Oregon! He now has his own shop and I can tell you from personal experience, he is an afficianado of both KTM and Husaberg along with being a very personable fellow. His shop is located near SE 82nd and Stark street. Call Rick at 503-255-8971. I strongly suggest you take your bike to him before anyone else. I saw him take a 2002 fe650 form being "unable to start" to watching him kickstart it with his hand! I was just a tad impressed.........

Regards,
Logjump *(Rick Norrander)

jimmydean · Nov 28, 2004

Wow, that's great to hear. I called Gresham and they are closed all weekend. I will call Rick first thing Monday and see when I can get it in to him. It's also a bit closer to me as well.

What is the name of his shop? There was a guy I talked to on Thumper Talk about the Rekluse clutch who had a shop in SE and was a big EuroTrash fan (I think he rode a husky). Rooster Performance or something? I just remember a chicken logo

Anyway, thanks again! Maybe he can teach me a thing or two as well, that would be nice. I so want to keep this bike, it is the nicest bike around for sure.

logjump · Nov 28, 2004

The guy at Thumpertalk is "Ride". I've never met him in person but have exchanged emails and he seems to be one heck of a good guy.

Not sure what Rick Bozarth is calling his shop. I know he told me, I just don't remember. (I hit 40 so my memory is starting to fade)
Rick will definately help you with the starting drill of your berg as well as teach you a few things about the bike.

Logjump

jimmydean · Nov 28, 2004

I found a shop in the phone bok:
Cycle Gear
8930 SE Stark St
Portland, OR 97216 - 1663
(503) 257-7047

I'll call the number you gave me on Monday and se when I can take it in. It sure would be nice to talk to someone about it seeing how everyone I ride with has no idea what a Husaberg even is

Everyone who has ridden this bike falls in love though. My buddy is now looking to sell his brand new '04 Honda XR250 to get a 450 berg.

jimmydean · Nov 28, 2004

Ok, so after a bit more effort (I hate it just sitting there) I noticed there seems to be little or no fuel going in the engine. If I pull the spark plug and kick the bike over, there seems to be no fuel going into the engine. Even with the choke on, full throttle, doesn't matter.

There is gas in the carb, but it seems the gas stops there. I am pulling the carb off and will take it apart to see if there is something stuck tonight. I have heard stories about Dellorto carbs, is there another option on this bike? Maybe a Keihin or something? If so, what size?

Thanks to everyone for all the help, this board rocks.

LINEAWEAVER · Nov 28, 2004

jimmydean said:
Ok, so after a bit more effort (I hate it just sitting there) I noticed there seems to be little or no fuel going in the engine. If I pull the spark plug and kick the bike over, there seems to be no fuel going into the engine. Even with the choke on, full throttle, doesn't matter.

There is gas in the carb, but it seems the gas stops there. I am pulling the carb off and will take it apart to see if there is something stuck tonight. I have heard stories about Dellorto carbs, is there another option on this bike? Maybe a Keihin or something? If so, what size?

Thanks to everyone for all the help, this board rocks.

Very Important:

The short version based on your description and all else remaining equal:
When the low speed air / fuel mixture is incorrect and / or the idle speed set too high the throttle stop screw will be turned in excessively resulting in a very week carburetor signal during cranking. Engaging what most perceive to be the choke will further reduce said signal as it is actually an air / fuel enrichment circuit which along with additional fuel bleeds in surplus air.

Where to start:
Completely warm up the engine via normal riding. Optimize your idle air fuel ratio while maintaining an idle speed of roughly 1400 - 1600 rpm. This may require you to alter your idle fuel jet, idle mixture screw setting and / or metering rod selection and height. Once the idle speed and mixture are correct you will be operating with a minimum of throttle opening during idle and cranking consequently improving the carburetors cranking discharge signal.

Open throttle during cranking = no signal = no fuel

Dale

jimmydean · Nov 28, 2004

Where to start:
Completely warm up the engine via normal riding. Optimize your idle air fuel ratio while maintaining an idle speed of roughly 1400 - 1600 rpm. This may require you to alter your idle fuel jet, idle mixture screw setting and / or metering rod selection and height. Once the idle speed and mixture are correct you will be operating with a minimum of throttle opening during idle and cranking consequently improving the carburetors cranking discharge signal.

I would be glad too if the danm thing started in the first place. I have tried the following settings with no luck:

mixture 2 turns and idle form 5 turns to nearly out
mixture 2.25 tunrs and again with the idle
mixture 2.5 turns and again with the idle
miture 2.75 tunrs and again with the idle
miture 3 turn and again with the idle

So for now, I will leave it alone, my left leg is about to fall off. I also notice the wire going to my plug was worn out, so I snipped the end and re-screwed it and it seems to be working well now. The spark is very strong, so it must be something in the damn carb.

LINEAWEAVER · Nov 28, 2004

Jimmydean,
If you would like to invest in a phone call I will try my best to assist you.
My business phone number is 510 223-9052.
Mornings are best.
Dale

jimmydean · Nov 28, 2004

Thanks Dale, I might take you up on that depending on what Rick has to say. I will call him first thing to see how much it will be to take a look at it and then I might call you for some further assistance.

Splat · Nov 29, 2004

jimmydean said:
I would be glad too if the danm thing started in the first place.

So for now, I will leave it alone, my left leg is about to fall off.

Just tie a rope to it and pull start it. Once you pull start it, then you can adjust the carb as per Dale's recommendations.

Pull starting is quick and easy. Third gear @ 15 mph and slip the clutch out. You will get a much stronger signal to the carb because the engine will be spinning at 2000 or more rpm

jimmydean · Nov 29, 2004

To pull start it, I will need to pull my clutch apart. Right now it has too much drag, that's why I'm stuck kicking until my leg falls off.

I think I know what will get it going tonight. I tried to call Rick, but it was a home number. If I can't locate his shop, I will call him again and leave a number tonight. I am in Gresham right now, so I will swing by Stark and see if I can locate it.

jimmydean · Nov 29, 2004

I spoke with Rick and will take my bike into him this week. He said it sounded like it just needed adjustments and would be less than $50 if anything. Well worth it, plus he will show me how to keep it running.

He also said Husaberg visited his shop and he will be doing warranty repairs as well as stocking a full line of parts, to maybe include bikes. Talk about kick ***!

So another big thank you to everyone and even if I get it running tonight, I will still take it to him for polishing and advise.

I'm at a loss, what should I do to get this bike running?

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