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Ignition prb: CDI FS650 '04 interchangeability

Joined Sep 2010
7 Posts | 0+
I have the following problem with the ignition of my bike:

Engine cold: runs normally, but I hear a few times the loss of ignition, only one spark each time.
When I start to drive with a warm engine the problems seem pop up more frequently.
After 10 minutes the problem is so worse that the engine stops running al of the sudden. I pull the clutch, release it again, and the engine (sometimes) starts running like nothing happened.
After 15 minutes I can’t ride full throttle anymore, when I try, it feels and sounds like I drown the engine. To get home, I give 5% throttle at low revs, acceleration is almost impossible. Next day, same scenario, almost ok when cold, impossible when hot.

Changed the sparkplug, changed the ignition coil after measurement, no result. Tested with a new stator, no result.
What's left? The CDI I guess??

I want to test with another CDI before purchasing one. Is the CDI interchangeable with younger fs650’s? Which are and which not?

This is my CDI:
Kokusan Denki
Case: PBT
Filling: PUR
Type: HU 001
800.39.031.300

I red something on the site about resolder the soldered joints, but I guess the print is molded in PUR so that’s not possible or is it?
 
Shot in the dark.

Have you tried changing the spark plug? Some one had a similar problem and it turned out to be the iridium spark plug he had. A change to a standard NGK DCPR 8E fixed it. Also try to change the spark plug cap.

I think ignition ( CDI and stator ) problems on bikes with the kokusan 04 to 08 is rare, mostly on pre 04 bikes with the SEM sett up. SEM and kokusan parts are not interchangeable.

But I might be mistaken.

Regards
 
I seem to recall some stator issues with the first 04s and Kokusans. Do a search on this site.

Steve
 
steve said:
I seem to recall some stator issues with the first 04s and Kokusans. Do a search on this site.

Steve
Always learning something new :wink:

Here are some threads on kokusan problems.
http://www.husaberg.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=605
http://www.husaberg.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=606
http://www.husaberg.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=2801

And this is from the DOC under poor starting.

Kokusan Ignition problems

These are, the one thing we have heard of: when the mains go, they can tap the ignition pick up out. The gap should be checked at 0.75mm and the pick up straight and true.

Regards
 
The_Force said:
Have you tried changing the spark plug?
Also try to change the spark plug cap.

I think ignition ( CDI and stator ) problems on bikes with the kokusan 04 to 08 is rare

Changed the spark plug & ingition coil & stator allready, same sh*t, different day.
I measured the spark plug cap (Ohm), seems to be allright. But i'll change it anyway, doesn't cost much.

Is the kokusan CDI on 04-08 interchangeable?

Thx
 
steve said:
I seem to recall some stator issues with the first 04s and Kokusans. Do a search on this site.

Steve

That's correct, my dealer said the same. I measured the resistance @ 20°C and 60°C, but the values where ok. Afterwards I did a check with a new stator, but that didn't help anything. So the stator is ok i guess.
 
Flip-poz said:
steve said:
I seem to recall some stator issues with the first 04s and Kokusans. Do a search on this site.

Steve

That's correct, my dealer said the same. I measured the resistance @ 20°C and 60°C, but the values where ok. Afterwards I did a check with a new stator, but that didn't help anything. So the stator is ok i guess.

When the 04s came out I didn't pay much attention. My 07 has had no issues, so I still haven't chased it up. When the SEMs go, and I'm on no 4 on my 98 501, and had similar issues with a mate's LC4, the symptoms start out with missing and then no spark when hot. Goes again after it cools down, so its intermittant, and testing the stator when cold shows nothing.

You've swapped everything but the CDI, so seems like it could be the problem. Could also be a wire. Crimped connections sometimes are a problem, all connections properly plugged in, no chafed wires?. Did you swap the plug lead and cap when you did the coil?

Are you sure its electrical? Not a stuck/dodgy carb float needle causing flooding?

Steve
 
The_Force said:

First 2 links are stator-temperature topics, high temp causes fails of solder joints, after cooldown the ignition is dead. Mostly SEM ing. problems. I allready tried a new (read rewind) stator but the problem stayed. I suppose the stator is not the problem...
Last link could've been interesting but gets offtopic onfortunately...
The_Force said:
These are, the one thing we have heard of: when the mains go, they can tap the ignition pick up out. The gap should be checked at 0.75mm and the pick up straight and true.

I'am not sure I know what you mean, can you explane this sentance better(my english is not so good) to me? (the electrical wires touch the pick up sensor? that's not possible I think, see the picture. What gap? the space between pick up sensor and the rotor?)

Thx for the effort of searching, I really appreciate it, but I allready searched the forum and docs, but no result, thats why I made a new topic.

 
0.75mm is the gap you need between the staple and the flywheel so the bottom left photo is the important photo.

not sure what it is but always try the cheapest stuff first so a plug, plug cap and lead are the first three.

then try and get someone who will swop parts for you to test, this is cheaper than buying new items.

regards

Taffy
 
Hi,

Did you change the pick up as well as the stator?, these pick ups generally work or they don't, but could be acting intermittent when the engine gets warm/hot.

Failing that it could be the cdi, when you say the engine cuts out then restarts when you drop the clutch and seems ok, when the engine actually stops it resets the processor within the cdi, if so sounds like a dry joint within the cdi.

Regards

Sparks.
 
Taffy said:
0.75mm is the gap you need between the staple and the flywheel so the bottom left photo is the important photo.

not sure what it is but always try the cheapest stuff first so a plug, plug cap and lead are the first three.

then try and get someone who will swop parts for you to test, this is cheaper than buying new items.

regards

Taffy

I don't think there is a problem with the pickup. I measured it's resistance and was perfect. The gap seams to be ok, but i'll measure the distance to make sure.

Next thing i'll check is the plug cap and lead, the plug is allready changed.

I have a friend with ah 650 '05 en 650 '08. Do they have both the same type CDI?
Are there interchangeable? I don't want to have to buy 2 CDI's...


Thx for the tips!
 
sparks said:
Hi,

Did you change the pick up as well as the stator?, these pick ups generally work or they don't, but could be acting intermittent when the engine gets warm/hot.

Failing that it could be the cdi, when you say the engine cuts out then restarts when you drop the clutch and seems ok, when the engine actually stops it resets the processor within the cdi, if so sounds like a dry joint within the cdi.

Regards

Sparks.
No I didn't change the pick up, because it has the same resistance than the manual.

The CDI is moulded in a plastic. So before i break it open to fix the problem, i want to make sure the CDI is the cause. Do you have experience with CDI repairs?

I found about CDI repair. When I red this, i think it's better to invest in a new CDI...
http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/archiv ... 84367.html
 
According to the part manuals the CDI was changed in 2005 at the same time the new crank came.
But the stator and everything else has the same part no.

My guess is that it should work but this CDI might have a higher revlimit.

But this is only a guess.
 
Just to inform everybody who has the same problem, and all who helped me searching the problem:
I bougth a new CDI and all problems were solved! (225€)

Thx all!
 
Thanks a million for your detailed post and for sharing the solution to your problems. I'm going down exactly the same route as you. Just ordered a new CDI, fingers crossed for it being my solution as well :D
 

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