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Idle problem

Joined Jul 2003
29 Posts | 0+
Chester, UK
Last weekend I did a race training day - boy, do I need to get fitter.........

My problem is that although my bike (2002 FE400E) starts v.easily, hot or cold, kick or e-start - the idle speed is unpredictable. By this I mean that from cold she idles well but once she's up to temperature, if I close the throttle, the engine dies - a bit tricky going down steep descents! The problem is intermittent as well. Once stalled, she will fire up straight away on the button, but only if I have a bit of throttle on.

I'm guessing I need to whip the carb off and give it a good clean, but I'd be grateful for some advice on:

(i) which areas to pay most attention to and;

(ii) the best procedure to clean the carb (I don't have access to compressed air)

All the best
 
Might be too rich on the idle mixture.

Do u need choke to start her ?

If not then I reckon its this.

To clean it, most of the stuff can be cleaned by removing only the float bowl. Clean with carb cleaner from Halfords. Or remove and dismantle the whole thing :roll:

Lloyd
 
Thx Supermoto

She only requires choke from cold, and then olny for a minute or two.
 
Sounds like it is too rich at idle speeds. Jets tend to plug when sitting, not grow larger, so I suspect a needle not sealing raising the float level or a goober of air filter grease has dropped into the pilot air bleed jet (This is in the carb air intake bell)
Dan
 
Hi Husabutt

It's happened on my last two outings.........

dsducati may have a point - when I changed the air filter last week, I removed a couple of tiny stones from the bottom of the frame (next to the carb air intake) - a foreign body may have entered the carb, stopping the needle seating? :?

Mike
 
It sounds like a rich condition on the idle/slow speed circuit to me also. Both of my Bergs like choke to start cold and after about 3-4 minutes will idle down telling me to turn the choke off as they are warm and now want a lean mixture. If jetted properly when hot they should start by kicking with absolutely no throttle. Before taking the carb apart warm it up, turn your idle up a tad (to keep it running) and adjust your fuel screw for the highest idle and then lower it back down. It may just be your fuel screw needs to be turned down a bit. If you have some hours on your bike the slide needle may be worn to the point of allowing fuel get past it at idle. The float needle valve may also be worn as this is a high wear item. I clean the carb often so water and a water soluble degreaser works for me. Of course you would need to blow it out good. There is a delicate plastic fuel filter under the fuel inlet cover (where both fuel lines come together) Pure carb cleaner will attack it if left in during a soak.
 
If everything checks out O.K. then you may want to try going down one size on the pilot jet.
 
Before I bought myself a compressor, thanks to China and globalisation, I used to use a selection of syringes and petrol/solvent. Holding the end over the oriface you want and squeezing gives good controlled pressure. Works for oil galleries in engines as well. The wife being a pharmacist means I have ready access to a suitable selection, but if you live in the right street you can probably get some for free. Otherwise generally available at your local pharmacist or chemist for not much money. Once fuel is on the rubber plunger it swells a bit and gets tight so I use a bit of silicone spray on them and store them half way out so the the first use is a squeeze to get them working again.
Steve
 
carb cleaner

Anyone that needs to clean a carb should do themselves a favor and purchase a can of "carbon and combustion chamber cleaner" it is available from Suzuki and Yamaha dealers as well as many other sources.Just spray it on the parts and watch those deposits dissolve.Just keep soaking the jets and needle and seat assy and jet needles etc until they are as clean as new.Its quick,cheap,and effective and its been used in the trade for years.....nsman
 

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