Idea's.. Plug Removal.

when this has happened to customers that requested I remove the oil drain bung I have done the following:

get a 1/2 to 3/4 wide chisel and actually whack a 'V' in the rim of the bung square on. when you have established the V then turn the chisel 30-40 to the left and start hitting it anti-clockwise. try not to hit towards the engine but almost away so that there is no compression of the metal onto the cases. you can turn that chisel into a punch for the second part if you like.

regards

Taffy

I have never done this on a bike, but what has worked in a similar situation is to use a dremel or a hacksaw to make a slot in the bolt head. Then use a slotted screwdriver to remove the bolt.

start with the easiest thing and move up gradually, you could be on track with the welder but i usually use this after its rounded off till nothing else fits, then weld an actual nut onto it, and dont be shy give it the heat or it wont stick (you might also melt the screen i didnt think about that but if you dont get it hot the nut breaks off) i have used 220 mig on higher/max heat ranges in many aluminum oil pans and never a problem with distortion or anything,

using an airpowered impact wrench with all methods below work best for me,

the first thing i would try would be to pound the next size smaller socket on, although that may be easier for me to say have a u.s. standard wrench set along with the metric, usually the sizes are just enough different they still go on but hold tighter

then try an extractor that holds from the side of the bolt, or a chisel

then weld on a nut and risk melting the plastic, i would try to cool the plug with a wet shop towel right after the weld

cutting a slot in could work i have found by doing this sometimes you cant turn it with screw driver and may require a hammer and impact driver with a screw bit or impact wrench

start with the easiest thing and move up gradually, you could be on track with the welder but i usually use this after its rounded off till nothing else fits, then weld an actual nut onto it, and dont be shy give it the heat or it wont stick (you might also melt the screen i didnt think about that but if you dont get it hot the nut breaks off) i have used 220 mig on higher/max heat ranges in many aluminum oil pans and never a problem with distortion or anything,

using an airpowered impact wrench with all methods below work best for me,

the first thing i would try would be to pound the next size smaller socket on, although that may be easier for me to say have a u.s. standard wrench set along with the metric, usually the sizes are just enough different they still go on but hold tighter

then try an extractor that holds from the side of the bolt, or a chisel

then weld on a nut and risk melting the plastic, i would try to cool the plug with a wet shop towel right after the weld

cutting a slot in could work i have found by doing this sometimes you cant turn it with screw driver and may require a hammer and impact driver with a screw bit or impact wrench

I guess the adjustable locking plier or vise grip would be the easiest but from what i have found, unless the plug is not really tight, you have really sharp jaws on the vice grip, and have a super death grip, (which you might have that one from holdin onto a berg for a while ) they are not taking it out and usually just round it worse,
if you dont have a socket the right size i have used them to round it the bolt off some more to get to the smaller size socket or extractor needed pounded onto it

good luck

The early models used to have a red anodised ally bung for lightness and bling. When I bought my 98 I was briefed by the dealer to make sure it was only done up to the torque spec, and no more, and to use a 6 point hex socket, not a 12.

Well eventually I stuffed it. I was able to use a dremel to take a side or 2 down a bit and hammered a 6 point 12 mm socket onto it. Also worth grinding down sockets and ring spanners to remove the taper they all have to get more even load transfer to the bolt, and a rattle gun will help. I have an 240v electric one, but with the price of compressors and air tools these days, $200 should do it easily.

You can buy cheap 'dremels' with a pretty full tool kit for about $30-40 from somewhere like Bunnings or Supercheap.

Steve

I knew that would work like i said the hotter the better or they just dont stick:cheers:

Idea's... Plug Removal

How I Removed Seized/Stuck Drain Plug & Drain Plug Screen on my Husaberg FE570S...

Quick Overview of What I Did:

I seriously stripped out both the drain plug and the screen drain plug on my brand new 2011 Husaberg FE570S on the first oil change (because the plugs were seriously over-torqued!). The drain plug finally came out but was destroyed on the outside. I was about to give up on the screen drain plug, because nothing was working.

So, here's what I did...
Find a stand about 20 inches high and put some thick padding on it, then lay the bike on its left side, on the handlebars with the handle bars crossed. Now you'll have plenty of room to see what you're working on.

Prepare for these steps ahead of time so that you can do them quickly...
I used duct tape to cover the drain plug hole and prevent dirt or whatever from getting in the engine. Then I used a 2000 degree heat gun to heat up the case all around the drain/screen plug (but not directly on the drain plug) for about 4-5 minutes.

When the area around the drain plug was plenty warm, I used 5 or 6 quick squirts of FREEZE spray directly on the screen drain bolt I wanted to remove.

Next (and immediately), I used a Craftsman hammer impact driver with a 1/2 inch to 3/8 inch drive converter, a 10 inch extension, and a 13 mm short six-sided socket. On the third impact the bolt came free! [Be sure to set your impact drive hammer to CCW! You want the drain plug to come out, not get tighter!]

Note: Once the drain plugs are stripped, the hammer impact drive might be needed, because it turns the drain plug while downward force is applied which increases the chance of getting a good grip on the drain plug. When using a regular socket or wrench, the stripped head tends toward upward force and the wrench or socket slips off the head of the drain plug and makes the situation worse.

Both drain plugs are completely stripped out on the outside, but are undamaged on the inside. So, I put plenty of anti-seize compound on the threads, put the plugs back in, lightly torqued them, and put oil back in the engine. I'm going riding this weekend and I'll have a new set of drain plugs ready for the next oil change.

NOTE: It was hard to get a good grip on the side-mounted screen drain plug because the frame is in the way, and generally, as you can see (while working on the bike), it's not a completely straight approach. Before the next oil change, I'll be sure to find a short 13 mm socket/wrench that will reach the plug squarely to prevent any off-camber turning, and to prevent this from happening again.

I used a Wagner 10 Amp, 1200 Watt heat gun. I think it heats to 2000 degrees! Heat guns are available at most hardware stores, Lowes, Home Depot, etc. for about $25.

FREEZE sprays get 70 degrees below zero! Get them at Electronics stores and auto part stores.

Anti-Seize Compound is available at auto parts stores.

For more ideas, see this post from the AdventureRider site:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=652318