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I love my 390 but.....can't keep it from stalling

T

ThumpDrunk

Joined Dec 2010
48 Posts | 0+
Northern NJ
I'm almost reaching the end of my rope with this stalling issue. Once the bike is hot it will stall at low rpm's, must of stalled 20 times on me yesterday.

Things I have tried/checked:

currently at comp map ending in 1002
new plug
new plug cap
wrapped mid pipe
dealer changed fuel pump/filter/reguator/injector
no white junk in the filter or tank
have not tried map switch..not that it should matter
have also tried dealers personal 390 ECU with 1001 comp map
FMF Q4
checked all wires and secured wiring harness away from shock at motor.

dealer will have a look, the problem is he would have to ride it hard before it starts acting up....

it has done this since day one.

I also have a rekluse pro installed, with med engagement rpm and hard lock up settings. I might try high engagement rpm spring and raising the idle a bit.
Interesting thing is that in neutral I have my idle set pretty high, when I drop it into gear even with the lever pulled in the idle drops down like there is drag on the motor...however the bike does not "lurch". In addition the stalling does not feel like engine drag stalling, but more like a fuel issue as it just coughs and dies...but only at low/idle rpm and sometimes in on/off throttle situations.

at one point yesterday, I was idling up to river crossing with the clutch lever pulled in and it just died on me


anyone have any other suggestions? I love this bike but I can't keep riding it like this.
 
Well,

To point out the obvious.........The idle drops when you put it into gear, so even though you don't feel a lurch, something is going on that is making the idle drop. You said also that this has done this since day one, have you had the rekluse installed since day one?

You said you tried you dealers personal 390 with the 1001 map. I assume no stalling issues there?

I'm also assuming that there is/are not fault codes flashing on the FI light, and that there are no codes in the ECU?

I suggest you utilize the data logger that is part of the ECU to help you determine your problem. I believe there is a total of 900 minutes of data logging available. Your dealer will have to set up the triggers as to when the data logger turns on, and when it turns off. Download the user setting tool instructions from the Husaberg.com site and look for this function. It can map several different parameters for a long time, and you might be able to find a signal problem.

Just guessing here.........Based on your description, it sounds like a thermal runaway on one of the inputs from one of the sensors. Sort of like when a crank or cam position sensor goes bad on a car. There is a broken wire in the sensor, and when cold the two broken ends of the wire stay in contact, but, when the sensor gets hot the thermal expansion of the wires causes them to separate and thus opens the circuit. Had this problem on my 97 7.3 liter diesel Ford. And have also had the very same problem on the older SEM ignitions, they would get hot and the motor would die, let it cool for a while and it would start and run again.

So, my best guess again is that the data logger will show loss of signal somewhere when the motor dies.

By the way, what dealer are you using?

Dale

P.S. Has the dealer verified the TPS is in the correct postion? This could also very well be a problem area. Sounds like they have been throwing parts at it, and again, based on your description, it sounds as if there has not been some basic diagnostics done to root out the problem.

Hope this helps
 
Hi Dale,

dealer is Town and Country in NJ, and Yes we did check TPS (voltage) while we where plugged in.

the bike had the same stalling problems with the dealers ecu set to "1001 map"

Yes, I have had the rekluse in from day one. I have always set them up with the recomended settings and they work great, perhaps the Berg needs a bit of a higher engagement rpm to accomodate the higher idle?
 
Had the same issue and finally figured out you have to keep turning the idle up until the stalling stops.


Cheers

Looki
 
Thanks Looki,

I don't suppose you had a rekluse also?

I will try the higher engagement rpm spring, which hopeuflly will let the bike's clutch fully disengage allowing it to idle a bit higher before applying pressure.
 
Did you recheck the installed gap on the plates? I just went for my first ride on my new 390, with a Z Start Pro. The Rekluse worked great in the beginning, but after a bit it was abrupt to pull away and it's dragging at lower rpms, and sometimes stalling. Rekluse asks you to check the gap between plates after half an hour, as there's a bit of initial wear. I may have to install one of the thicker steel plates to take up the gap - I'll know in a couple of dud when I have time to get into it. Just thought this might be your issue too.
 
Garrison said:
Did you recheck the installed gap on the plates? I just went for my first ride on my new 390, with a Z Start Pro. The Rekluse worked great in the beginning, but after a bit it was abrupt to pull away and it's dragging at lower rpms, and sometimes stalling. Rekluse asks you to check the gap between plates after half an hour, as there's a bit of initial wear. I may have to install one of the thicker steel plates to take up the gap - I'll know in a couple of dud when I have time to get into it. Just thought this might be your issue too.
Click to expand...
I'm a bit confused...(not odd for me) if you have too much gap and you may have to install a thicker plate, I would think the clutch would be slipping, not dragging?
 
ThumpDrunk said:
Garrison said:
Did you recheck the installed gap on the plates? I just went for my first ride on my new 390, with a Z Start Pro. The Rekluse worked great in the beginning, but after a bit it was abrupt to pull away and it's dragging at lower rpms, and sometimes stalling. Rekluse asks you to check the gap between plates after half an hour, as there's a bit of initial wear. I may have to install one of the thicker steel plates to take up the gap - I'll know in a couple of dud when I have time to get into it. Just thought this might be your issue too.
Click to expand...
I'm a bit confused...(not odd for me) if you have too much gap and you may have to install a thicker plate, I would think the clutch would be slipping, not dragging?
Click to expand...

You are correct. Excessive clearance=slip, not enough=drag
 
You're right, and I won't try to opine on why this might be the source of your stalling woes because I'm rather mechanically declined. But let me offer up what evidence I've seen with my Rekluse-equipped 390 to see if it might help you out.

As I mentioned previously, I took mine for its maiden voyage on Monday. Just a quick hour to get that part of the break-in over with. I was happy to see I'd apparently installed the Rekluse correctly, as it was working as advertised. (When you're a mechanical twit like me these small victories are something to celebrate). So the Rekluse was as smooth as clutching at low rpm, and would also allow easy power wheelies.

After about half an hour, I noticed some low-speed awkwardness with it; it would slip when pulling away and stall at idle when stopping. The revs would pick up to what sounded like maybe 4000rpm, and then it would engage abruptly. And if I was coasting to a stop with the clutch lever out, the clutch would stay engaged and the engine would lug and stall, whereas previously it would just drop down to an idle. The lever was more spongy than earlier as well.

Rekluse recommends checking the installed gap after 20-30 minutes because new clutches can `settle' a bit. So I popped the clutch cover, and I found that the gap (between the Rekluse pressure plate and the first friction plate)was beyond the tolerance. You'll recall that step when you installed it - the allen wrench-like feeler gauges aren't supposed to slide in, but mine now did. So I swapped out the recommended steel plate (second from top if I recall) with the .65 one provided in the kit. Bolted it together, and the gap is gone. I wish I could say all is now well, but it's 11:30 here, and I don't want to fire it up and go for a test ride because I'd disturb the neighbours and my sleeping kids. I can take it around the neighbourhood tomorrow, and I'll let you know what I find.

As an aside, I'm not sure where this leaves me when my friction plates wear down a bit. That thicker plate is there to take up the gap from worn frictions, but I've now used mine in the first hour. We'll see how that goes. Clutches are cheap, but still...

Anyway, just thought I'd serve that up. I'll let some of the exceptional mechanical minds on here weigh in, and maybe that'll be of some use for your situation. Good luck with it bud.
 
Garrison said:
You're right, and I won't try to opine on why this might be the source of your stalling woes because I'm rather mechanically declined. But let me offer up what evidence I've seen with my Rekluse-equipped 390 to see if it might help you out.

As I mentioned previously, I took mine for its maiden voyage on Monday. Just a quick hour to get that part of the break-in over with. I was happy to see I'd apparently installed the Rekluse correctly, as it was working as advertised. (When you're a mechanical twit like me these small victories are something to celebrate). So the Rekluse was as smooth as clutching at low rpm, and would also allow easy power wheelies.

After about half an hour, I noticed some low-speed awkwardness with it; it would slip when pulling away and stall at idle when stopping. The revs would pick up to what sounded like maybe 4000rpm, and then it would engage abruptly. And if I was coasting to a stop with the clutch lever out, the clutch would stay engaged and the engine would lug and stall, whereas previously it would just drop down to an idle. The lever was more spongy than earlier as well.

Rekluse recommends checking the installed gap after 20-30 minutes because new clutches can `settle' a bit. So I popped the clutch cover, and I found that the gap (between the Rekluse pressure plate and the first friction plate)was beyond the tolerance. You'll recall that step when you installed it - the allen wrench-like feeler gauges aren't supposed to slide in, but mine now did. So I swapped out the recommended steel plate (second from top if I recall) with the .65 one provided in the kit. Bolted it together, and the gap is gone. I wish I could say all is now well, but it's 11:30 here, and I don't want to fire it up and go for a test ride because I'd disturb the neighbours and my sleeping kids. I can take it around the neighbourhood tomorrow, and I'll let you know what I find.

As an aside, I'm not sure where this leaves me when my friction plates wear down a bit. That thicker plate is there to take up the gap from worn frictions, but I've now used mine in the first hour. We'll see how that goes. Clutches are cheap, but still...

Anyway, just thought I'd serve that up. I'll let some of the exceptional mechanical minds on here weigh in, and maybe that'll be of some use for your situation. Good luck with it bud.
Click to expand...

thanks for the info.

I have installed many of these clutches as I'm a dealer for them. what you are describing sounds odd.....

there is a a bit of "break in" and certainly there is a range that the gap needs to be in. however you describe "slip at low rpms" and "grabbing also at low rpms"? this does not make sense to me. if you have excessive gap, then it would slip more and not feel "grabby" at low rpms. I suspect something else is wrong in there.

things to check:

if you used the anti squeal kit make sure the xrings are fully seated. make sure you torqued the center nut correctly and the thrust washer is behind the center clutch hub.
 
Oh. Balls.

Well, it's been raining today, so I didn't test it out. I know the xrings were good because I thought to check them when I was in there yesterday. I'm also very confident that the thrust washer was in there. I'm maybe less confide that I got the correct torque on the nut. I remember I had the bike on it's side, with my knee on the rear brake and my other foot jammed against the tire to keep it from slipping - even in sixth. Definitely room for error there...

I'll still try a test ride tomorrow if the weather cooperates. If I see anything odd I'll take it fully apart to try that nut again. Thanks for the advice.
 
Garrison said:
Oh. Balls.

Well, it's been raining today, so I didn't test it out. I know the xrings were good because I thought to check them when I was in there yesterday. I'm also very confident that the thrust washer was in there. I'm maybe less confide that I got the correct torque on the nut. I remember I had the bike on it's side, with my knee on the rear brake and my other foot jammed against the tire to keep it from slipping - even in sixth. Definitely room for error there...

I'll still try a test ride tomorrow if the weather cooperates. If I see anything odd I'll take it fully apart to try that nut again. Thanks for the advice.
Click to expand...

I have used the "quick blip" with the impact wrench method more than once with no problems. I would err on the side of loose rather than tight.
 
Thump - thanks very much for your advice. I had my Rekluse apart a couple of times trying to figure it out. I went right back to the start too. (I'm getting pretty quick at installing a Rekluse...) Turns out my mild expletive (balls) at having realized I'd screwed up was pretty appropriate. After the last time taking it apart I weighed the balls on a digital scale. Turns out I'd installed six Tungsten instead of the three required. I must have flipped the tuning chart page over by mistake when I first installed it, as that is the tuning spec for the 570. (The 450 is on the other side of the page, and the 390 isn't listed). Just took it for a spin, and it works great. We're heading to BC this Sunday for an all-day ride, and this'll be my first real outing on the Berg after the initial one hour on dirt roads for the first oil change.

Thanks again for your help. Sorry I wasn't able to offer any insight for your original issues. Let me know if there's anything you want me to test on my 390 to help rule things out for you.

Cheers
 
Garrison said:
Thump - thanks very much for your advice. I had my Rekluse apart a couple of times trying to figure it out. I went right back to the start too. (I'm getting pretty quick at installing a Rekluse...) Turns out my mild expletive (balls) at having realized I'd screwed up was pretty appropriate. After the last time taking it apart I weighed the balls on a digital scale. Turns out I'd installed six Tungsten instead of the three required. I must have flipped the tuning chart page over by mistake when I first installed it, as that is the tuning spec for the 570. (The 450 is on the other side of the page, and the 390 isn't listed). Just took it for a spin, and it works great. We're heading to BC this Sunday for an all-day ride, and this'll be my first real outing on the Berg after the initial one hour on dirt roads for the first oil change.

Thanks again for your help. Sorry I wasn't able to offer any insight for your original issues. Let me know if there's anything you want me to test on my 390 to help rule things out for you.

Cheers
Click to expand...

glad you got it sorted, I did the same thing with the tuning chart on my first install, 6 TC balls on the 390....I knew something was off right away.

you can always figure out which ones are tungsten with a magnet, the steel get picked right up but not the TC ones.

I'm actually going to take all the TC balls out on the 390 after speaking to rekluse yesterday....we shall see if it helps.
 
Let me know how it goes with all steel. I do find the engagement maybe isn't quite as responsive as I'd like. I thought I'd try some of the different tuning options. The ride today was just around the neighborhood though. We'll see how it is in the tight terrain we ride here. It may not be a concern.

Thanks again.
 

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