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Husaberg 650FS 650

P

PeterRS

Joined Sep 2016
6 Posts | 0+
Amsterdam
Hello everybody, first post ever,

I have a motorcycle workshop in the Netherlands, Amsterdam.

Today a customer brought a Husaberg FS650.

To Do list:

-check valve clearance
-Fix electric starter. (engine cranks too slow)
-Install a contact key
-Coolant seems to overflow sometimes

I have a workshop manual, however its from a 05 650. Can somebody confirm the given valve clearances?

Is there a good fix for the slow cranking engine? Sometimes it starts, most times it does not. The previous owner seems to have made extra +cables to the starter motor.

Is there a way to install a key? I could just set a universal keylock between the starter cables, but then it will run with the kickstart.

The overflowing coolant seems to me because of the radiator missing a fan. The weather here is extremely hot today.

Thanks in advance!
 
Hi and welcome
First off what year fs650

Valve clearance is 0.004"

there are people who install electric fans and there are commercial kits out the for this.

Yes you can add a key to any motorcycle. just find a power wire and cut it, Ie: power wires going to ignition coil that way it won't work by kickstart

As for the coolant overflowing, these bike don't like to sit and idle, they warm up very fast and will overheat. In the owners manual it states not to let the bike idle for more than a minute.

change the coolant to some engine ice and make sure there's nothing mechanically wrong with it which would cause a bike to overheat.

Hope this helps a bit
 
I had a leaking water seal, and even after changing it, the bike (2005 450cc) kept boiling EVERY time it was momentarily leaning on the left side (example when falling). Even a tiny ammount of air in the system makes it hell.

Then I was advised to keep bleeding the system many times. So I did, and about 3-4 times I re-bleeded it after a few minute cooldown after short rides, with bubbles coming out of the bleeder screw every time. Not had boiling issues ever since. I have never had a fan on this bike but I ride it in -15°C to +30°C conditions.

Someone might know a better way to get all the air out at once.
 
we haven't been told the year?

the coolant needs bleeding and should only cover the core, any more coolant and it will be spat out the overflow tube.

the valve clearances should be set at '1/6th of a turn'. TDC is when the leading edge of the staple (on the flywheel) is at 9 o clock in a line between the centre of the crank and the bottom of the left bolt hole.

slow turning
this is really complicated (sorry!) and even more so because you DON'T GIVE THE YEAR!!!!
80% = the auto decomp on the cam isn't working correctly
if it is 2001-2002 it may have a slow starter motor.
carburettor can have a big impact if set wrong but you have to get them started first to set them right!
ignition advance is incorrect (2001-2003).

regards

Taffy
 
valve clearances may be guilty of the slow turning over. plus the auto decomp spring. if you are looking for extra work then you need to get the rocker cover off and cam out. i do an extra strong decomp spring. you maybe have to wreck the cam chain to do it. if you're lucky you'll have a clip link in it.

regards

Taffy
 
I will check the valve clearance first, since the service history is unknown.

Not sure how to diagnose a faulty decomp. I use the decompressor to kickstart the bike into life, it seems to work fine?

If I pull the decompresser, the engine cranks over like a 50cc moped.
 
PeterRS said:
If I pull the decompresser, the engine cranks over like a 50cc moped.
Click to expand...
well that answers your question!

the automatic decompressor isn't working sufficiently well! it is situated on the cam. they have a weak spring which collapses as you press the starter button. you are then on full compression. what you need is a spring that waits until the speed of the engine is greater before the spring collapses and the engine goes to full compression.

regards

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
well that answers your question!

the automatic decompressor isn't working sufficiently well! it is situated on the cam. they have a weak spring which collapses as you press the starter button. you are then on full compression. what you need is a spring that waits until the speed of the engine is greater before the spring collapses and the engine goes to full compression.

regards

Taffy
Click to expand...

Unfortunately, I do not understand at all. Please correct me where I'm wrong:

The bike is issued with a manual decompresser. If I pull the handle near the clutch, the exhaust valve opens a bit during compression stroke,compression is zero, so the bike would be as easy to start as without a spark plug.

I understand the principle of a automotic decompressor, found on the KTM's. Here the engine inertia when starting disengages the decompressor.

With the Husa, if I pull the decomp, the engine has no compression, the starter motor drives the engine very easily ofcourse. If I'm starting, and then release the decomp lever, the startmotor just stops instantly.
 
As far as I know, your bike has BOTH automatic and manual decompressors. That the manual one allows it to spin freely indicates that the valves are within reasonable spec and the starter stuff is OK as well. Which leaves us to conclude that the automatic spring-operated decompressor on the exhaust cam is NOT working correctly or it would be spinning freely at pre-starting RPM due to its intended mode of operation :)
 
they can't start on the manual decompressor. it is like a chicken, all wings and no take-off!

Taffy
 
Fitted the key today, checked the valves, gave the bike a service, all seems fine.

Then noticed the torque limiter slipping heavily. Took it apart and noticed that the friction plate inside is worn out.

Is there any way to fix this?

Another question, where can I order parts?
 
you're lucky that the friction material has not detached itself from the metal gear? you can shim them up easily enough with a starter repair kit.

regards

Taffy
 
Yes, already did, Starts a lot better now, but not on 1st attempt.

Is that normal or do I need a thicker shim? I used a 0,2 mm shim.

Luckily the replace was quite easy.
 
well if it is still slipping - yes but they can slip on first touch of the button after frech oil or sitting on the sidestand etc.

Taffy
 

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