Husaberg 400 FE 1997 no start

elerepair · Dec 7, 2014

Hello everyone!!

Working on this 400FE and it has a no start problem. It backfires into carb, no matter what. Problem is also with the ignition, I cannot get the marks aligned. I set the piston to TDC, and the mark is way off. there are 2 marks on the rotor, and it has to be on the left one ?

there is a spark. plug gap is set. mixture screw set to default.

could the problem be with timing chain? is there any engine rebuild manual, or any hints on timing marks ?

thanks in advance!
some pics in attachment.

berglsmerg · Dec 7, 2014

Main Page - Owner's Doc

All.you need is in there.

ned37 · Dec 7, 2014

All.you need is in there

prolly not. most info in there is the '01 up, but the info on the flywheel timing marks is valid.
something tells me you have a '99 or '00 based on the mag cover. info on the earlier engines is the same, tho.
first, make sure of your valve adjustment. set them after rotating to tdc after the intakes open and close. do the wiggle test to see if you have a tiny bit of clearance, then adjust using the 1\6 turn method.
to check cam chain timing, pull the cam cover at tdc and get the cam lobes pointing up. put a straight edge across the lobes. it should be parallel to the head. while you're in there look at your rocker rollers closely and make sure your cam bearings are intact.
has there been any change in the ignition components? putting a '97 red coil on that engine will give you a major backfire.

husabutt · Dec 7, 2014

Align the mark on the left with the stator if its a kick start only model, on the right if its a e-start model. It appears to be an e-start model so you may have used the wrong timing mark.

Here's the manual. It covers up to 2000.
It is all we have for up to the 2000 models. It works for the early models, back to 1988, but there can be differences (use a parts manual in conjunction with the 99 workshop manual). Especially when it come to stator values
http://husaberg.org/service-manuals/19032-1999-fe-service-manual.html

Stator values from the U.K. Motoplat site (member "Sparks")

New test figures for Husaberg

Up to 1998 >>> black & red 1750 Ohms
> black & green 23 Ohms

1999 to 2003 >>> black & red 3000 Ohms
> black & green 165 Ohms

Check your stator values. My guess is that its time to replace or rewind the stator. Rewinding is usually the better option:
UK Motoplat - Bradford Ignitions

Check your model year here:
Year recognition and changes - Owner's Doc

elerepair · Dec 7, 2014

sorry for the lack of info.

It's a kickstart.
not sure about the model year, 1997 is what it was sold as.

checked timing chain - was a bit off, but should be set now. 2 opposite lines on the sprocket itself (is this valid?) are in line with the top of head, lobes pointing up,and now I get the coil mark aligned with the flywheel mark. Still the same problem.

as I was told - it was running a little before. be able to warm it up, but backfiring. now it's not starting -- at least not trying enough -- it's backfiring into carb, and throwing smoke through the air filter.

ignition coil is black in color.

flywheel is bolted to the crankshaft and pickup coil is on the cover. (this is not supposed to be like this on '97, right ?

VIN: YU7FE4000V0000264
so this is a 1997 model.

Will measure the stator, then get back.

husabutt · Dec 7, 2014

The right side engine case is for the e-start model. It has the e-start gear wheel cover.
Also if it was a e-start model it will not have the kickstart activated decompression cable running up to the head and it will not have the engine mounts on the front of the engine. Only the swingarm bolt and one more bolt on the bottom of the motor.

My 1997 600 uses a different ignition and cover than yours.

Perhaps someone has installed a later model ignition 98-2000? and that is why the marks are not aligning.

Taffy · Dec 8, 2014

that carb needs to come apart and be spotlessly cleaned! then the old parts renewed.

the ignition timing line wants to be 1mm to the left of centre and NOT as the =manual says. not sure what the doc says as I never look! LOL!!!

regards

Taffy

elerepair · Dec 15, 2014

so we took a closer look at the engine. Timing chain is set, I suppose, and valves look ok.

Im not sure about the decompression lever -- is there any pics, how it should look?
Is it supposed to be on the spark plug side, and stick out where rocker arm rods are?

SM page 24 -- You can see it there. if that's the one -- then it doesn't have one.

so the wrong thing with the engine is the stator then ?

Taffy · Dec 16, 2014

if you look in the photo from Eric (Husabutt) you'll see he has no lever at the head either. none of my engines do or the customers that i can influence.

you need the camshaft auto decomp to work right. THAT is what you need!

then there is everything else.
ignition spark
ignition timing

tappets, how mnay times do I say it. if the tappets are right you can here them up to 2m or 2 yards away tick-ticking a morse code signal.

1 yard no good
3 yards no good.

ignition timing - makes you weep.

tow start it the first time.

set the tickover ASAP. have a screwdriver in your pocket!

actually 30% of the time in my workshop, when a bike doesn't start and we've never heard it run (around 98% of our work) the friggin idle was set too low to start the bike!

open the tickover screw!!!!

regards

Taffy

husabutt · Dec 16, 2014

Actually Taffy I did install a decomp lever at the head. It did not come with one and I will probably be taking it off. With the updated decomp and your spring there is simply no need for it. It works beautifully.

You are correct. Use the updated decomp and lose the manual decomp contraption.

Taffy · Dec 17, 2014

cheers Eric

you know what I like about you? you've been away for a few years and yet your bike still leads the pack! I'm glad you're benefitting from the advancements made.

now all you need to do is to convert that left handlebar decomp into a choke perch with my supa-dupa cable!

regards

Taffy

husabutt · Dec 17, 2014

elerepair said:
.

so the wrong thing with the engine is the stator then ?

Have you checked the stator values as previously suggested?

elerepair · Dec 17, 2014

Sorry, but whats a tickover?
And tappets? Are those so called knuckles that push down the valves?

husabutt · Dec 17, 2014

elerepair said:
Sorry, but whats a tickover?
And tappets? Are those so called knuckles that push down the valves?

Tickover is British speak for idle. Tickover screw = idle screw

Tappet adjustment would be the rocker arm adjustment (valve adjustment).

elerepair · Dec 22, 2014

ok. everything clear now.

Haven´t had chance to measure stator. and Owner had decided to rebuild the engine.
He took the head off and thinks that piston rings are quite bad, so he´s looking for them now. As We are here in Iceland -- every shop insists that rings are not available anymore.
Can Anyone help me with directions to the shop selling them, and shipping internationally, or any other option ?

Do I need the engine number or VIN is enough, to make sure of the engine specs ? If engine number - where is it located ?

I will measure stator ASAP and get back to You!

What is the correct stator for this engine ? And camshaft ? Is it the one with shaft and a sprocket only, or the sprocket with arm thing on it ? pics?

husabutt · Dec 22, 2014

Your stock piston is probably an "Asso". Could be a Wossner though. If its an Asso it will be stamped on the underside of the piston. I don't think you can get the Asso rings anymore. You probably will have to purchase a complete Wossner piston and rings to make sure everything fits. Don't use the Wossner rings on the Asso piston.

Probably something like this but check with Taffy first
Taffmeisters - Husaberg, KTM, Husqvarna, Gas Gas, dirt bikes - servicing, tuning, rebuilds, parts

The cam should have the "arm thing" AKA Autodecompression Device on it. You will probably want to use the updated 2004-2008 one.

Taffmeisters - Husaberg, KTM, Husqvarna, Gas Gas, dirt bikes - servicing, tuning, rebuilds, parts

Taffy · Dec 23, 2014

if you are going to replace the rings on any old Husaberg you need to be like a policeman. you need to have all the facts infront of you.

every code you can see on the piston: write it down.
then you want to measure the height of each ring groove
the size of the GP
the piston to bore clearance

to replace rings is a hard task. easily the worst is to replace them on a 501. WHAT. A. NIGHTMARE!

regards

Taffy

tourist · Dec 23, 2014

Cool to see people being good to a '97 'round here! hope to see her on the trails when she's running well! stuðkveðjur ...

elerepair · Mar 4, 2015

ok. so everything back together now, and an interesting thing.
When everything was back together -- still a no go - what was obvious.
I measured the coil and got the resistances pretty close to the given ones. -- still. the owner took the coil to the shop, and it turned out to be bad. replaced it and managed to get it started. but next problem.
Seems like its flooding the carb. I got exploded views from net, and some basic adjusting procedure from manual, but nothing is clear.

Can someone point out the best (per expierence) procedure to adjusting float, and rest on the carb? Carb is VHSB 38.

Thanks!

elerepair · Mar 29, 2015

OK friends!!

Reporting back:
finally got the bike started. new stock jets in carb, replaced broken float arm, and I think everything is well tuned.

interesting thing is that I had to bend the float arm quite a lot to keep the fuel level to the gasket level. Is that normal ? anyways - bike is running and I can cold kick it 1-2 kicks.

Posted in electrical forum, to get some clarity on the wiring.

Thanks for all the help!
Regards from IceLand!!

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