Joined Sep 2013
369 Posts | 209+
canolbarth cymru
The middle one is the stock fuel screw, I think two strokes use an air screw... The zip-ty ones are nice though. They are all the same sizes. The stock one is better as it's brass, but you need a screwdriver to adjust it.
They are all missing some parts though..
First take the screw, onto that the spring, then washer, then o-ring..
DaleEO explains how to adjust the mixture screw in this thread..
http://husaberg.org/fuel/7546-carb-keihin-settings-550-fe-07-a.html
They are all missing some parts though..
First take the screw, onto that the spring, then washer, then o-ring..
DaleEO explains how to adjust the mixture screw in this thread..
http://husaberg.org/fuel/7546-carb-keihin-settings-550-fe-07-a.html
Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
the blue one is best 
as they all bottom out it doesn't make any difference just that the stock one is hard to adjust
for parts in the UK see DCR
Dave Clarke Racing Accessories
as they all bottom out it doesn't make any difference just that the stock one is hard to adjust
for parts in the UK see DCR
Dave Clarke Racing Accessories
Joined Nov 2001
17K Posts | 774+
Ely, England
better give us the spec of that road racer Steve!
if you have something like an akro on it I would think
165MJ
42PJ
E series needle
defintely get a pilot air screw and spring.
reduce the squirt to under a second.
I do a kit as you know with a special 3-angle tapered needle. worth the money I feel.
change the fuel valve and the O ring on the fuel valve female brass part. also change the O ring on the slide plate.
then start looking at over boring it and also an cone air filter and belmouth conversion. again, these are worth it.
I HAVE EVERYTHING IN STOCK.
regards
Taffy
if you have something like an akro on it I would think
165MJ
42PJ
E series needle
defintely get a pilot air screw and spring.
reduce the squirt to under a second.
I do a kit as you know with a special 3-angle tapered needle. worth the money I feel.
change the fuel valve and the O ring on the fuel valve female brass part. also change the O ring on the slide plate.
then start looking at over boring it and also an cone air filter and belmouth conversion. again, these are worth it.
I HAVE EVERYTHING IN STOCK.
regards
Taffy
Joined Sep 2013
369 Posts | 209+
canolbarth cymru
Cheers lads,
Taff, might give you a bell tomorrow, got a few issues as you know from my other thread. Before the electrics munched themselves I ran a 142 MJ at Rockingham, flat out in top and a nice plug colour but horrible low down carburetion. I'm using a large K&N air filter and 2 into 1 into 2 exhaust with a pair of stubby race silencers, looking at making a pair of reverse cone 'baffles' to speed gas up on the way out.
Got a air screw kit on the way, spring, washer etc
Never got her to start on the button yet, R6 starter motor, lithium ion battery, your kit do the business?
Overheating will be an issue if I'm kept waiting and can't switch her off, starts easily with rollers but it's a 2 man job!
Many thanks
Taff, might give you a bell tomorrow, got a few issues as you know from my other thread. Before the electrics munched themselves I ran a 142 MJ at Rockingham, flat out in top and a nice plug colour but horrible low down carburetion. I'm using a large K&N air filter and 2 into 1 into 2 exhaust with a pair of stubby race silencers, looking at making a pair of reverse cone 'baffles' to speed gas up on the way out.
Got a air screw kit on the way, spring, washer etc
Never got her to start on the button yet, R6 starter motor, lithium ion battery, your kit do the business?
Overheating will be an issue if I'm kept waiting and can't switch her off, starts easily with rollers but it's a 2 man job!
Many thanks
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