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How to install Lineaweaver's jet kit.

Joined May 2005
1K Posts | 2+
Halifax Nova Scotia
I thought I'd post some pix for those of us who are a bit scared to do such things. I hope these help.

Lineaweaver Kit Instructions:

Remove:
Air boot / carburetor inlet bell, float bowl and slide lid
Main fuel jet
Needle
Pilot fuel jet (long skinny jet near the main jet)
Pilot air bleed jet (Located under the inlet boot bell, left hand side, viewing carburetor from rear)

1. With the float bowl removed pull the accelerator pump free from the socket (A firm yank with pliers will suffice)
http://www.husaberg.org/modules/Gallery ... r_pump.jpg

2. Install kit:
Install a #150 (supplied) or #160 main fuel jet
(climate dependant)
3. Install the kit supplied pilot fuel jet (48 or 49L)
http://www.husaberg.org/modules/Gallery ... t_jets.jpg

4. Install the "Lineaweaver" needle using the as delivered clip position #4 - #6 counting from the top.
http://www.husaberg.org/modules/Gallery ... needle.jpg

5. Install the spring and odd looking tapered screw into the pilot air bleed threaded bore. Turn said screw in until firmly seated, then back out 1/2 turn.
http://www.husaberg.org/modules/Gallery ... _bleed.jpg

Reassemble the carburetor with exception of the "plastic" inlet bell.

Important Note:
6. The new "Adjustable Pilot Air Screw" is slightly taller then that of the OEM fixed jet. Take care in removing just enough material from the bell in order to allow proper seating. The bell is plastic and a simple dremel tool and / or equivalent shall make short work of said modification. Try and fit the bell first and you shall clearly see my point!
http://www.husaberg.org/modules/Gallery ... t_bell.jpg

7. Turn the "Pilot Fuel Screw" (underside of carburetor body between inlet port and Venturi) in until firmly seated then back out 1 1/2 turns.
http://www.husaberg.org/modules/Gallery ... _screw.jpg



Fine adjustments will likely be required as many variables do exist.
In short, said kit should put you "very" close to optimum.

Note:
OEM Float level is 9MM and should not require adjustment

I am most always available for assistance
Best of luck and thank you for purchasing my product

Sincerely,
Dale

[email protected]
Phone / Fax: 510 223-9052
 
After I installed mine, the bike started right up, w/o choke.
The bike pulls strong from bottom to top and that damn popping on decel is GONE.

Thanks for an A1 product Dale
 
Thanks to Kelsow for the pics and guide and to Dale for the top notch kit. Mine's been in for about 2 months and essentially fixed my starting woes and an odd flat spot at about 1/3rd throttle. I had a riding buddy and jet kit installation "pro" to put mine in while I watched. I have a mental block when it comes to carb internals.

However, how does one access the air/fuel screw to make fine adjustments? I have the Motion Pro FCR tool, but it appears that I need to remove the starter in order to get to the screw. Is that right? And on a related note, does anyone know if there's enough clearance, with the starter in place, to install the Zip-ty fuel screw?
 
I installed my kit without removing the carb or starter.
I loosened the hose clamps and removed the boot. Then I turned the carb to get to the top or bottom. To adjust the fuel screw with the carb in position, I use a small tip of a screwdriver and my fingers or small vice grips. I think the Zip-ty would screw in and have space to spare.
 
Satex said:
However, how does one access the air/fuel screw to make fine adjustments? I have the Motion Pro FCR tool, but it appears that I need to remove the starter in order to get to the screw. Is that right? And on a related note, does anyone know if there's enough clearance, with the starter in place, to install the Zip-ty fuel screw?

i don't trust aftermarket fuel screws. i can easily reach the fuel screw on my 05 fe550 by using the bit from my multi-screwdriver. you know the ones that come with two double-ended bits? phillips on 1 end and flat-blade on the other. i just grab the bit with my fingers and it fits in there just fine.

i also have an older tool i made myself using the advanced method as follows:

a. take a small single-ended screwdriver drill bit.
b. wrap duct tape around it to increase the diameter of the part you hold and provide better grip.

that one fits into even smaller spaces since it's only about 3/4" long.
 
I have used the Zip-ty fuel screw for about a year with no problems. Much easier than with a screw driver - I used an eye glass screw driver before I replaced it. I have a Scotts "t-handle" on order with Dan, it looks like it would be easier to use than the Zip-ty.
 
This time of year it's 10°c to 20°c @ sea level.
Main is 160 on 5th clip
 
kelsow

as you are part of her majestys great empire, you may well use block connectors like we do. go into my gallery and see one. then make the tool yourself. the kit is excellent and dumb proof.

bigbob

you know that that 160 won't work in your bike. the air is clean and pure north o 'er the border so you'll still need that 250 main jet. it's no good argueing fella, rules is rules... :wink:

regards

Taffy
 

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