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How to check play in crank?

Joined Sep 2009
84 Posts | 0+
Adelaide, South Oz
Have just finished reading a heap of posts I found using the search function, but they only made me more confused. :)

Recently purchased an '04 built, '05 model FE450E. After a bit of reading here it seems there is a slight chance that the crank bearings let go. The bike has just done 40 hours woth of work - not hard - just trail riding.

Spoke to the dealer today as I just happened to be in the neighbourhood - my local 'berg dealer is several hours away. The mechanic there mentioned that I should check the crank play every so often.

Can anyone explain how this should be done, and how often?

I assume I need to remove the flywheel and undo the nut on the clutch side, but what to do after that?

Cheers,

aardy
 
grab the flywheel and try to get some up and down movement. you shouldn't get any of course but when you do.....!

when they are gone it'll show as a very small clonk-clonk!

regards

Taffy
 
Thanks guys. I don't even know what axial play is! :)

I'm sure the mechanic said something to me about using a micrometer.

I guess at the end of the day I want to know how to perform a basic routine inspection that will let me know when/if the bearing is on the way out. Not wait until it lets go and sends bits and pieces through the rest of the motor.
 
if you have rollers the crank needs to have axial play ie move left to right across the bike if it doesn't have any its potentially worse than having a bit of radial play.

axial float of the crank 0.3 to say 0.6mm but some use 1mm. pull the ignition cover off and see if the flywheel goes clunk as you push it in or out, taffy measures his with calipers, zero at one extreeme between the case and the lip of the flywheel and slap teh crank to the other, the measurement is the crank axial play or endfloat.

radial play is speced as 0.03 to 0.04mm and needs a DTI to measure properly, put the foot of the dti on the flywheel at 12 o clock and move the flywheel up and down, you can do the same on the drive side on the end of the crank

by hand though 0.03 feels good, 0.04 feels like its just on the way out but seems to work fine 0.01 feels like it doesn't move at all but it works fine too. whatever the measurement is cold it grows when the engine is hot, sp I guess ideally you want just the tinyest discernable ammount of radial play.. no more.

from the factory my bike initially had 0.01mm radial play on the drive side and 0.04mm on the ignition side. at 170Hrs both mains had gained 0.01mm radial play and stil looked good though the tight one was a little more worn than the other.

Id be concerned with a radial play of 0.07mm (0.3thou) or greater.

axial play is the important one as it can change without notice there are pics in the DOC on measuring it.

Ive got some pics I need to put up of some mains that have had zero endfloat a few times the ends of the rollers are in bad shape.
 
Thanks Bushy, most of that makes sense.

I'll get the bike up onto the lift for an oil change and see what happens.

I'm probably going to fill her up with the Delo 400 I've been reading so much about. Given that this problem with the crank bearings started well before people started using Delo, I'm assuming that the Delo hasn't accelerated the onset of the problem?
 

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