pollo said:
I talked to the dealer and he said I have the stock set up for 05 Fe's. He said it not a good idea now to add links anyway because i'd have 2 master links. Maybe i'll wait for new chain time and install the 116. I really like the 15/45 gearing and pulling a tall gear on this bike. 1st gear isn't to tall for the really tight stuff. That's what counts. You must have a peppy ride Dale with your 15/52. Do you find yourself shifting through gears a lot?
Hey Pollo,
My bike came geared 14/48 (3.42:1), so the 15/52 (3.46:1) is not a whole lot different. According to the book it was supposed to be like yours 15/48 (3.2:1), but, I didn't find this out until I went to replace the stock chain and sprockets.
1st on my bike is a real rock crawler/paddling gear, but, 6th still gives 102mph revved to the moon, and it will cruise pretty comfortably at 70 without spinning it too hard. For the majority of my riding I find this gearing to be really good, a gear for every situation if you will, and it allows me to use all the gears in most of my races and riding. At the last desert race I did there were some pretty fast sand washes, and the max speed function on the speedo recorded 92mph.
If I did more more dirt road cruising I would drop the rear to the stock 48. And to answer your question about shifting a lot. Well, that depends on what type of riding you're doing. If you are doing a bunch of fast then slow way down then fast again, yeah, you can be rowing the box a bit. However, if you are doing a lot of technical stuff, you can just leave it in a gear and use the full range of rpm's to take you from one corner to another. I find that if the motor is revved up a bit, and then you back off for a corner, done so at the right time, this greatly aids the tip into the corner by using the engine braking.
When I change the original chain and sprockets I wanted to go to a 16/52 (3.25:1) which is what I have on my 01 501. However, with the 52 rear and the 16 front I couldn't get this combination to work with the chain. IE with 120 pins the chain was too long, and with 118 pins the tire was way too close to the mud guard.
I run the biggest chain wheels I can as this helps keep the chain more in line with the sprockets, and lessens the amount that the chain is on the slider, and any binding moment effect on the suspension. I know this sounds a bit hokey, but, years ago I happened to see an interview with MC, and the interviewer was asking about his bike set up and pointed out the rather large rear sprocket on his bike (
this when he was winning all of his championships for Yamaha) and he mentioned the fact that they were running the biggest chain wheels they could to improve the suspension action. It sounded like a good idea, so I've been running that set up ever since. Another benefit in the long run is that it puts less wear on the chain as it doesn't have to pivot as much on the counter shaft sprocket.
As far as adding any links to your chain. I think your dealer has a good point about having two master links. However, if you were to add links using a link less type of master link which does not use a clip to hold the side plate on, but, rather uses peened type of link I don't see how this would hurt. My 01 501 came with an endless or link less chain, and I believe that most street bike chains come this way, you have to break the chain to get it apart.
I run an RK GB520GXW chain, and it comes with the permanent type of link in the box, but, I run a clip type of master link as I think on a dirt bike you better be able to split the chain. I highly recommend this chain, in the 2600+ miles I have put on it I have only had to adjust it a couple of times, minimally, and that I am positive was not from the chain wearing so much as the sprockets wearing. A couple of times I adjusted the chain, and within one ride it was right back to where it was before, so I just took note of the slack, and left it there. The only time recently that I had to adjust it was when I did a fair amount of riding through the wet sand at Moab, and the wear was obvious on the rear sprocket, nice and shiny!!
The only reason I am replacing the chain and sprockets right now is b/c the sprockets are worn out. The rear could go a while longer but the front is starting to hook the chain. I should have thrown on a new counter shaft sprocket sometime ago ($20?), and I probably could have got another 30 or 40 hours out of the set up.
Sorry, didn't mean to hijack your thread with a diatribe on gearing.