how does this shim stack look

The_Force · Nov 11, 2011

I have got Race tech gold valves in my bike.

this is the stack

2 x 24 x .15
1 x 24 x .1
1 x 12 x .1
1 x 24 x .15
1 x 21 x .11
1 x 19 x .11
1 x 17 x .1
1 x 14 x .1
1 x 13 x .1
1 x 11 x .1
1 x 12 x .11
1 x 18 x .26

I have removed one of the two 24 x.15 shim it seems to be better.
so it looks like this now

1 x 24 x .15
1 x 24 x .1
1 x 12 x .1
1 x 24 x .15
1 x 21 x .11
1 x 19 x .11
1 x 17 x .1
1 x 14 x .1
1 x 13 x .1
1 x 11 x .1
1 x 12 x .11
1 x 18 x .26

I was thinking about replacing all 24 x .15 with 3x 24 x .10 for every one 24 x .15

what do you dudes think about that?

Taffy · Nov 11, 2011

others can help you better here because I don't use gold valves. I have no idea what they do for your bike.

try KTMtalk.com archives?

regards

Taffy

bushmechanic · Nov 12, 2011

it really depends on how the MV is built

what does the bike do that you don't like? what would you like it to do different?

The_Force · Nov 13, 2011

The faster i hit stuff the stiffer the fork gets. so the get to stiff to soon.
clickers are almost full out @ 30 clicks out on compression and i have to work at it to bottom out
even after i removed one of the 24 x 0.15 shims the forks did get better after that on rocks and sharp hits
and seemed softer over all but not that much.

I basically need more stroke used on the sharper hits.

I don't know how the mid valve is configured. either stock or a check plate as race tech supply's
I did get it like this sett up for a 95 kg rider and 0.46 kg springs a few years back
I now have 5.4 n/mm springs, big tank (18.5 l) and a heavier rider.

Regards

bowser · Nov 13, 2011

which GV's do you have? post a pic if you can
I have some stacks that were/are in my bike to suit GV's

The_Force · Nov 14, 2011

I don't have a picture will take it next time i open.

but it was bought in 2006 or 2007.

Regards

bushmechanic · Nov 14, 2011

the best mod anyone can do to the forks is to increase the travel it is the equivalent of increasing engine displacement.... without adding any mass to the reciprocating parts.

if you got 315mm out of them and went back to the 0.46 springs I think that would be the best possible platform to start dialing in. you would have the plushness of 0.46s and the bottoming Resistance of 0.50s

on an "easier" level I think it is likely that increasing the amount the MV can flex or if it is a check plate creating one that can flex would be a good improvement.

regarding what I think about your ideas to soften the BV I think they are good but it is likely that addressing the MV will eventually yield a nicer result

also check the preload on the springs and look at oil levels if you haven't done before

The_Force · Nov 14, 2011

air gap is @ 130mm
Spring preload is as little as possible me thinks, spring is advertised as 505 mm +16 mm of spacers. Hard to measure preload because of top out spring (forks get longer the more you try to preload the spring but spring gets very little preload) but i think thear is no need to change it

I think the shim stack has to much of a progressive damping curve because of the 0.15 face shims

will look at how the midvalve is configured next

regards

The_Force · Nov 15, 2011

I want to try this next and air gap at 140mm
that is if i can find two 11 x .10

5 x 24 x .1
1 x 12 x .1
1 x 24 x .15
1 x 21 x .11
1 x 17 x .1
1 x 14 x .1
1 x 13 x .1
1 x 11 x .1
1 x 11 x .1
1 x 18 x .26

regards

bowser · Nov 15, 2011

Have a look at this document i put together from information sourced

list of reccomended stacks from standard, an Australian Racetech dealer using GV's, trail tricks, Cimwells stacks and a couple of suggestions from Bushie (hope you don't mind)

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc ... zA3VmluSnc

let me know if that works or not

for the record, the GV stack worked the best for me WITH THE CORRECT SPRINGS TO SUIT MY WEIGHT (.47's). Worked crap with the standard springs (i'm 95kg without gear)

that is with reference to the racetech G2R gold valves

The_Force · Nov 16, 2011

bowser said:
Have a look at this document i put together from information sourced

list of reccomended stacks from standard, an Australian Racetech dealer using GV's, trail tricks, Cimwells stacks and a couple of suggestions from Bushie (hope you don't mind)

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc ... zA3VmluSnc

let me know if that works or not

for the record, the GV stack worked the best for me WITH THE CORRECT SPRINGS TO SUIT MY WEIGHT (.47's). Worked crap with the standard springs (i'm 95kg without gear)

that is with reference to the racetech G2R gold valves

Thank you for this but i think i have the older gold valve (not G2R)

I weight 116 kg and i have a large fuel tank and my springs are 0.55 kg front and PDS-12 rear (10 -13 kg/mm)
had .49 front before and racetech P30 (9.5 - 11.5kg/mm) in rear before. The new springs made so much difference in how the bike behaves for example under hard braking.

so i would think i have the correct springs but need to fine tune the compression stack.
The rinding I do mostly Is desert/rally and single trak riding with lots of little sneaky rocks that give me dents in my front rim and hammer through my bars.

Regards

zales · Jun 18, 2016

hi

I have a Race Tech Gold Valve on my husaberg 08' 450, enduro riding, good for technical fast riding, woods and rocks, small-midle jumps. I'm 66kg 175cm, fork spring are 4,4Nm 5mm preload, motorex 5wt oil, 120mm oil level.

Restrictor stack 00.20, gap 10 (by race tech diameter)

BV:
24x15
24x15
24x10
24x10
12x10
24x10
24x10
21x10
19x10
17x10
14x10
13x10
12x10
11x10

comp 12out
reb 14out

Fine for me, somethimes harsh on square rocks or bumps,

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how does this shim stack look

The_Force

Taffy

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bowser

The_Force

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The_Force

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