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How do you switch out the frt springs?

Joined Jun 2010
20 Posts | 0+
Hey Guys,
Just bought a very nice used 10' 390 and I'm new to this forum. The original owner put softer front and rear springs on it and gave me the OEM's which I want to switch out. The rear seems easy but what about the front? What's the process/steps and do I need any special tools?

Thanks,

Clay
 
Clay, I just had my springs changed front and rear as I'm a touch over the standard weight range (!), but I got the dealer to do them so I don't know the exact details. I wouldn't have thought it's too difficult, but you'll probably want the tool for getting the fork cap off and torquing it back up afterwards. I've got one that fits over the top of the fork with four pins that go into the holes and it has a large nut on top that you can use a standard wrench on. It also has a cut-out so it fits round the fork bleeder if you have one. I could find a link if you need it (there's an official tool mentioned in the repair manual but it doesn't look as good as the one I bought).

You might ask why I need the tool if the dealer did them, but when I got the bike back I found out later that the rebound clicker on the left fork didn't work. Turned out that the black plastic "fluid barrier" (as the repair manual calls it) hadn't been screwed all the way down onto the threaded piston rod before refitting the top cap, which means the cap is higher than it should be even when it's tightened down and the clicker can't push down far enough to reach the stop so when you wind it clockwise it just keeps going forever. There's a specific warning about this in the repair manual and it was mentioned in another thread here so you'd think the dealer would have been more careful, but there you go.

The other thing you might need is a thin wrench to hold the nut at the top of the fluid barrier. I can't remember for sure but I think it might be something like 22mm. The barrier has a thin nut with a flange either side so the jaws on many wrenches are too thick to fit into the gap between the flanges. I was desperate late on Saturday night so I just ground down the jaws on my wrench till it fitted. There is an official tool for this too if you wanted to get it.

I didn't go any further into the fork as I could fix my problem without taking them completely apart so I don't know what else you might need. Hopefully someone who's done the whole thing will pop up any moment with more info.
 
Thanks for the reply. I did find a video online for an open WP system and your right on all accounts. Thinking I should have the fluid changed as well and in that case, have the whole bike setup correctly by an expert. Oh welll, it's good to know how to do it cause I'm sure I will sometime.

CD
 
Hey CD,
It's a pretty straight forward procedure if your handy with tools.
Your location's not listed, but if your in the N.Cal bay area gimme a holler, I'm real familiar with WP forks- matter of fact I'm gonna do mine tomorrow- beats working.. :D

Dan
 

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