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Hot start problem with Rekluse fitted 09 FE570

C

colinmc400

Joined May 2009
83 Posts | 0+
Western Australia
I have had some dramas restarting my 09 570 the last couple of rides. It always fires first time when cold but there seems to be a theme developing that the bike will not start when it gets really hot. It has a brand new Yuasa battery fitted, that showed as putting out just under 14v at idle revs. You push the starter and its almost like theres not enough "umphh" for the starter motor to crank the engine over. It doesn't matter if its in gear or neutral, no go. I have had to get a jump start from other bikes a couple of times and then its fired up.

I am starting to wonder if there is too much drag on the rekluse when its hot? Does that sound plausible? What about if the oil gets too old, as it is prolly in need of an oil change? I have to swap a broken clutch cover this weekend, so the cover will off anyway, if anyone has any tips to try.

Thanks - Colin
 
I am sure it's not a Rekluse issue, especially if you start the bike in nuetral.
Start with the obvious things first.
Check for oil in the air box, especially around the intake air temp sensor. Some believe that hot oil mist from blow by will affect the sensor. Oil level is not over full?
Have someone check the new battery (load or inductance test).
If possible have the starter draw checked when hot.
Might be time to check the valve adjustment. Have a look at the auto decompression device and the cam journals. I seem to remember that there was a problem on some of the early production bikes that went to the 09 ISDE. Something about the camshaft to head clearence tightening up when hot. Let the bikes cool off and they would start. Never really heard of any of those type failures from the general public.
 
If it is in neutral then the fact that there is a Rekluse makes no difference because the Rekluse could drag all it wants then and it is just like a regular clutch.
 
I've got a bike here with the exact same problem... when it's extremely well heat soaked, the starter seems to hit the compression stroke and just can't turn the engine over. Let it cool down and it works great.

I've done lots of reading and there seems to be a couple of causes (I haven't proven either yet):

1. Some problem with the camshaft (not necessarily auto-decomp)
2. Starter torque limiter

I'll be tearing into the engine soon I think, and I'll update this thread with my findings. I'd love to hear what anybody else learns about this problem too.... it's certainly not an isolated incident, but it's not a common problem either.
 
Hi DuaneB I had my cam replaced earlier this year due to a hot starting issue, I would talk to the dealer who sold it to you first as the cam and labour was picked up by husaberg, I have also heard that the torque limiter can cause the same probs. The problem I have now is a dirty injector leaking fuel into the chamber while the motor is shut down, it cranks over fine after the cam replacement.
 
Guys, thanks for all the replies and some food for thought. Can i throw back in, the fact that the bike will start after maybe 5mins, with the aid of a jump start from another bike (2 X WR450's as it happens). Would the problems described be overcome witha jump start?

I think i will try with an oil change, ensuring the level is right and taking a look at the valves.
 
If the valve lash has closed up it would be difficult to start at all temperatures and even more pronounced when hot, but it would crank over fine. If the valve lash is too big then your decop may not create enough valve lift and the top end would be noisy as hell.
Take a good look at your decop mechanism on the cam while you're in there checking valve lash. I had a lot of play in the actual decomp shaft and the weight was almost ready to fall off, combined with big lash numbers there wasn't enough valve lift to allow enough combustion pressure to escape hence the feel a sluggish starter or weak battery.
I would def talk to your dealer about it as Husaberg are aware of the problem and you might get it done as a warranty claim, mine was well out of the new factory warranty.(12months or so) Jump starting will overcome the problem but as the very wise and highly respected DaleEO says, "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure."
 
I'm not the original poster, but I will update with some news on my friends 570 and our progress so far...

I got a new cam and we put it in complete with the auto decomp. It's getting cold here so it's hard to get the bike really heat soaked now, but a new problem has arisen with the new camshaft... the auto decomp lobe doesn't rotate enough to get the leading edge of the decomp lobe below the camshaft, and when the bike is cold the rocker arm roller hits the leading edge of the decomp lobe and the starter cannot overcome this extra bit of resistance. I put the old decomp in the new cam and it whirls over just fine, I switched the decomps back and forth a couple of times, and every time the new decomp would bind the starter up when the rocker arm hit the decomp lobe. So, right now the bike has a new cam with the old decomp in it. Starts great on the stand... I'll go heat her up tomorrow the best I can and report back. There is definitely a visible difference in these two decomps... very very minor, but it makes a significant difference. I took some pictures, I'll get them up here tomorrow.

His bike is a 2010 Fe570, I think I said earlier it was a 2009.
 
Hi All,

It's been a while since I posted on this topic, but we are beneath 3 feet of snow at the moment and there isn't a great desire to try pushing a two wheeler through this stuff!! :)

So... a quick update.. I did take the bike out last fall (aka Autumn) and got it as hot as possible considering the cooler ambient temps. It started perfectly without any hesitation, so I may have this problem fixed but I picked up a new problem with the new camshaft and old decomp lobe: The engine now "ticks" very loudly as if there was excessive valve clearance. I have yet to tear it down again to look around but the valve clearances were in spec when I did the swap.

Question for everyone... the husaberg parts diagrams show the decomp lobe and camshaft as a single part number but I know I read somewhere that you can buy the decomp lobe separately. Anybody know the part number for just the decomp lobe?

Also... I see that they have now updated the camshaft with a new part number for 2011 and it is also the replacement part for the earlier 09/10 camshafts. Anybody know what they have changed? Did they figure out the camshaft problems and change up to a better design??
 
I have the same starting problems when hot. If I understand correctly, the torque limiter is the problem. Is there a revised part available? Do Husaberg replace it as a re-call?
 
I have a 09 FE 570 and I've experienced similar issues. Battery doesn't seem to have the strength to fire her up.
Yesterday I rode into forest and stopped for a while to cool down. Then the bike refused to start, so I had to push it
through the forest back to road...

I recharged battery and still she won't start. Just spins once, doesn't have the juice to rotate engine fully.
Can it really be that a month old battery is dead? I tried with jump cables and another battery as well, same poor spin.

Ideas how to proceed?
 
If your engine turns over once, then stops... that sounds like a decompression problem which could be a faulty camshaft (that seems to have been the problem that I found). You could try jump-starting the bike with a known good battery to see if it helps, if it still won't turn over then it's pretty much guaranteed to be decompression related. I would check valve clearances first (if exhaust are loose, you won't get much, or any decompression). If valves are ok I would start suspecting a faulty camshaft.

My problem seems to be fixed for now after replacing the cam... but I don't think the owner of this bike has really had a chance to get it heat soaked yet on a hot day in tight trails.
 
DuaneB said:
If your engine turns over once, then stops... that sounds like a decompression problem which could be a faulty camshaft (that seems to have been the problem that I found). You could try jump-starting the bike with a known good battery to see if it helps, if it still won't turn over then it's pretty much guaranteed to be decompression related. I would check valve clearances first (if exhaust are loose, you won't get much, or any decompression). If valves are ok I would start suspecting a faulty camshaft.

My problem seems to be fixed for now after replacing the cam... but I don't think the owner of this bike has really had a chance to get it heat soaked yet on a hot day in tight trails.
Click to expand...
Thanks, kind of thought the same myself...
How tricky is the head on the Berg? Would an amateur mechanic such as myself manage to fix or destroy it?
Shouldn't be a problem if it's not trickier than your average head.
 
It's not that hard at all if you have worked on any other top end... just be careful you don't drop the shims inside the engine (I use a strong magnet to remove them).
 
I just spoke to a 'local' dealer (only 650 clicks away...) and they ordered new cam shaft and will replace it for free, as well as throw in a new EFI map. Hopefully that solves the problem.
 
excellent!!! make sure to post your results here after they finish the work... the more we know about everybody's experiences the better.
 
I got mine back from the service this week, they replaced the camshaft with a 2011 model for free.
Now it starts without any problems, the start engine rotates really lightly now.
 
Here is the kind of crap I've had to put up with my dealer, I had to figure out what was wrong with my bike when the pump was screwing up(I had to buy out right and fix myself) now my bike won't turn over and here is what he tells me. So I guess when he catches up with the rest of the dealerships I'll get more crap!!!

Email I received

Hey Darrell,

The first thing to check is the battery terminals. They come slightly loose and the bike just won't start. Then, the next thing would be testing the fuel pump itself. There has been an update to the pump and what seems to be happening is the older style pumps have too tight of tolerances and when the fuel gets hot, which is another thing to fix, the pump won't turn and therefore the bike won't start. After the pump cools, it will turn and the bike will start. The decom. isn't a problem. There may have be a very few people that have had a problem, but with any product there will be someone, somewhere that has a problem with just about any part on any bike. So, with today's internet, you need to be careful what you read and what you believe. We have sold literally hundreds of Bergs and have never had a decom problem.

Craig
Action Motorsports
940-627-1655
 
katoomed00 said:
We have sold literally hundreds of Bergs and have never had a decom problem.

Craig
Action Motorsports
940-627-1655
Click to expand...

Hundreds of Berg's??? Never heard of em. Of course they have probably never heard of me either. do they even have internet there?
 

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