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high centre of gravity

Got to agree with berger on the s12 front tyre climbing out of ruts, there not bad when worn but when new if you try to turn into the rut to stay upright they just climb up the sides.
one thing ive noticed is the berg carrys a full tank of fuel higher than the orange bikes .
got some pics of me rad lowering brkts somewere
regards steve
 
Taffy I know exactly what you mean as I have been having the same feelings about my berg feeling top heavy, I even find it harder to lift than other bikes. Let me know if you find some good ways to combat it.
Dan
 
My 2010 FE570 has given me over ten thousand miles of great service and a big smile for every mile. I ride a lot and have had many bikes I Can not think of a better all around bike than the Husaberg.
I usually don’t talk suspension setup because it’s such a personal thing, how the bike works for one person will not be right for the next guy! If you feel the NEW Husaberg feels strange at slower speeds and on tip in to turns, think about this. The best improvement I have made to the 2010 FE570 is to lower the front and rear ONE inch about 25mm. This was done internally on the shock and the forks were moved through the clamps one inch using a 3/8 bar mount spacer. This has lowered the weight mass (crank shaft). A front fork spring change to #46 fork springs one step stiffer than recommended for my 150lb weight made big improvements in sand, rocks, hard braking and tracking. With the engine weight high in the frame, the front end will tuck in when you brake hard (bad in sand) with the recommended spring rate, need to go one step heavier than the charts recommend for your weight with these new Husaberg. The after market guys spring rate charts are for conventional chassis designs Not the Husaberg!! The one inch lower chassis lets the bike handle great at mountain trail speeds (10/20 MPH) and even works better at high speeds in the desert. Cures that quick top heavy tip in feeling. The high rotation mass was designed for high speed GP bikes. Works ok on the dirt bike at higher speeds.
Above 20/25 mph the stock ride height worked OK but with the weight mass lowered a little it works even better. You still have plenty of ground clearance. I run about 100mm of sag on the rear and 30mm front but this depends on the rider and the terrain. These bikes are very sensitive to front ride height, a three millimeter change makes a big difference on tracking and feel. I was very surprised at the how well the bike works with these changes.
 
that makes a lot of sense Haskell

the only negative of jap MX bike like ground clearance (300mm vs 380mm) I have found is when cresting unknown soft dunes, its easier to get stuck like you see in Dakar footage, ruts etc are still OK as they are with the jap bikes. I guess because most of the ruts (here at least) are made by them, once they get deep enough like Tm wrote, the lil rice burners play bulldozer with the frame and keep the rut depth shallow.
 
bushmechanic said:
not sure why this thread came up :? looking for john F3s 450 fx weight distribution figures...

for future ref yes you can lower the COG a good 90mm and reduce the overall weight by 15kgs :D

http://www.husaberg.org/forum/viewtopic ... 96#p124657

I know you are looking for FX figures but I thought I would throw this out there for you in case it might help.
My 2010 FE570 was 52% on the rear bone stock full tank. Added turn signals, horn, the usual bark buster type hand guards and 70 degree sub-frame fuel tank. FMF full exhaust and Turn Tech battery to compensate for the sub frame full tank and all though it is now 9lb heavier it staid at 52% rear.
 

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