2000 501 FC- I just picked it up last night and in low it runs good, but switching to high it idles rough, stalls in first, switching to low it runs up fine and switching to Hi on the fly it starts to backfire and choke up. The original SEM CDI was in a box the previous owner gave me so I do know it's be switched out and he stated the new one has an extra lead for a light that is not in use, so it's not the exact one. The bike has been sitting all winter and ridden twice last year for 6 hrs. (dirty carbs?) I believe it is running too rich as of now even in low, but I assume it is correctly jetted for Colorado (5500ft). I am planning on changing the oil and spark plug out tonight and try to dial in the fuel-air screw, but I am unfamiliar with jets, but many were inluded with the bike. I apologize for not more info on what the CDI is, but I wanted to get an idea of what to look for before I get in there. Could this be the stator going bad and not firing fast enough, if it's another SEM igintion needing replaced, simply bad jetting or too rich mix (1/2 AV gas and regular is in there now). It seems more electrical if it runs fairly smooth in low, but there is still some limited backfire and popping on engine braking, but I'm no expert. All comments welcome. Thanks
Hi/Lo ignition switch problem
- Thread starter shogun1369
- Start date
Hi Shogun1369,
This is a strange one there is no cdi on the market that I know about that has a lighting wire.
I suggest there is a problem with the cdi there is no difference in advance cures HI or LO until 3500 3750 rpm. so this will not alter the idle speed in any way.
What color wires do you have and how have they been conected?. From 1999 to 2003 all the cdi's were the same.
Does it run ok with the Grey wire disconnected if so I would leave it in the state.
Regards
Sparks
This is a strange one there is no cdi on the market that I know about that has a lighting wire.
I suggest there is a problem with the cdi there is no difference in advance cures HI or LO until 3500 3750 rpm. so this will not alter the idle speed in any way.
What color wires do you have and how have they been conected?. From 1999 to 2003 all the cdi's were the same.
Does it run ok with the Grey wire disconnected if so I would leave it in the state.
Regards
Sparks
Thanks
I'll go through it tongiht and make sure everything is connected correctly, the "extra" lead, the owner said was so a light could be hooked up, but its ounds like he didn't plug them all in?
I'll go through it tongiht and make sure everything is connected correctly, the "extra" lead, the owner said was so a light could be hooked up, but its ounds like he didn't plug them all in?
Re: Thanks
You should have a Grey wire coming out of the cdi this wire controls the HI LO curve it is either earthed or not earthed depending on which setting you have it set on.
There could be a fault with circuity in the cdi when on one setting.
Which wire were you told that would run a light? and what are the differences between the two cdi's, have you tried the other cdi that came with the bike.
There will be some ref numbers where the leads come out of the cdi can you tell me what they are.
If it runs good on one setting then the stator is good, regarding fitting a Kukasan it is not straight forward the ignition cover has to be stood further off the engine crankcases but it can be done go to the Doc and you will see how it is done. Let us know what you find.
Regards
Sparks.
You should have a Grey wire coming out of the cdi this wire controls the HI LO curve it is either earthed or not earthed depending on which setting you have it set on.
There could be a fault with circuity in the cdi when on one setting.
Which wire were you told that would run a light? and what are the differences between the two cdi's, have you tried the other cdi that came with the bike.
There will be some ref numbers where the leads come out of the cdi can you tell me what they are.
If it runs good on one setting then the stator is good, regarding fitting a Kukasan it is not straight forward the ignition cover has to be stood further off the engine crankcases but it can be done go to the Doc and you will see how it is done. Let us know what you find.
Regards
Sparks.
CDI
The CDI is the exact same one that's in the box here are the numbers
ICU10
855 190 02
25022601
wires: red/blck,green into a plastic black connector
black into a white plastic connector
orange into a meatl connector
gray into a metal connector
The CDI on the bike, has everything hooked up correctly as far as I can tell, stock, the switch inside is in good shape. I set the idle screw, and fuel/air screw aaccording to the book, it's tricky at 5250 ft of elevation though,but I got it purring like a kitten on the low tsetting (which is the disengaged judging by the switch controls). I took it out on the street, unfortunately I live in a downtown city nieghborhood so I am limited in my assesment. On low, it runs great, good power, engine braking still had some popping but not that unusual, I got the rpms up fairly high in 3rd gear, flicked the switch to high and it took of like a rocket on same throttle and seemed to run good for a short stretch, but in the being the city and going 50+mph I couldn't run very long, so I let off the throttle and it started backfiring and popping much worse, flick into low and couple seconds later back to normal good running. Low is plenty fast, but out in Moab or straights if I am wide open I think hi may work ok in high rpms? Definately still something going on in there, but managebale. New gas should help as well, there is an 1/2 114 octane and 1/2 regular in there now, but it's a year old or so according the previous owner. Anything else I might try and thank you again sincerely for your input, your an invaluable resource for a newbie like me.
The CDI is the exact same one that's in the box here are the numbers
ICU10
855 190 02
25022601
wires: red/blck,green into a plastic black connector
black into a white plastic connector
orange into a meatl connector
gray into a metal connector
The CDI on the bike, has everything hooked up correctly as far as I can tell, stock, the switch inside is in good shape. I set the idle screw, and fuel/air screw aaccording to the book, it's tricky at 5250 ft of elevation though,but I got it purring like a kitten on the low tsetting (which is the disengaged judging by the switch controls). I took it out on the street, unfortunately I live in a downtown city nieghborhood so I am limited in my assesment. On low, it runs great, good power, engine braking still had some popping but not that unusual, I got the rpms up fairly high in 3rd gear, flicked the switch to high and it took of like a rocket on same throttle and seemed to run good for a short stretch, but in the being the city and going 50+mph I couldn't run very long, so I let off the throttle and it started backfiring and popping much worse, flick into low and couple seconds later back to normal good running. Low is plenty fast, but out in Moab or straights if I am wide open I think hi may work ok in high rpms? Definately still something going on in there, but managebale. New gas should help as well, there is an 1/2 114 octane and 1/2 regular in there now, but it's a year old or so according the previous owner. Anything else I might try and thank you again sincerely for your input, your an invaluable resource for a newbie like me.
RE: CDI
Oh, almost forgot, the mysterious "extra wire" was not attached to the CDI, but a wire was run straight off the stator containeing 3 wires and a plastic attachment piece that was taped off, if I decided to run a light on it, would that put much more of a load on the stator and cause it shorten it's life?
Oh, almost forgot, the mysterious "extra wire" was not attached to the CDI, but a wire was run straight off the stator containeing 3 wires and a plastic attachment piece that was taped off, if I decided to run a light on it, would that put much more of a load on the stator and cause it shorten it's life?
Re: CDI
OK, you will have one less wire coming out of your cdi because it is a FC model the FE/FS has an extra wire (white) this becomes live when starting the bike off the leccy start.
As for your problem if there is any difference on idle when switched from HI to LO there must be a problem internal of the cdi. Run the bike with the Grey disconnected this will be OK.
When I run up an ignition on the rig nothing happens to advance curve until around 3750 rpm on either setting. What the setting does basically is shift the power level either for top end high revs or bottom end more torque.
Have you tried the other cdi that came with the bike?.
The popping on the over run is air getting into the exhaust system or running on the lean side.
Regards
Steve.
OK, you will have one less wire coming out of your cdi because it is a FC model the FE/FS has an extra wire (white) this becomes live when starting the bike off the leccy start.
As for your problem if there is any difference on idle when switched from HI to LO there must be a problem internal of the cdi. Run the bike with the Grey disconnected this will be OK.
When I run up an ignition on the rig nothing happens to advance curve until around 3750 rpm on either setting. What the setting does basically is shift the power level either for top end high revs or bottom end more torque.
Have you tried the other cdi that came with the bike?.
The popping on the over run is air getting into the exhaust system or running on the lean side.
Regards
Steve.
RE: Re: CDI
I have not tried the other CDI, only becasue the owner previous owner stated that one was replaced, so I assumed it was bad, but I'll switch them out for a test. From the looks of the swtich, the LO setting seems to be the off position, would that be any different than disconnecting the grey? I will also adjust the fuel screw to run a little richer, I am going to some trails on staurday where I can really run the bike and I'll have a better idea ater that of it's true nature. Thanks again.
I have not tried the other CDI, only becasue the owner previous owner stated that one was replaced, so I assumed it was bad, but I'll switch them out for a test. From the looks of the swtich, the LO setting seems to be the off position, would that be any different than disconnecting the grey? I will also adjust the fuel screw to run a little richer, I am going to some trails on staurday where I can really run the bike and I'll have a better idea ater that of it's true nature. Thanks again.
Let it warm up
The poping you are experiencing when you come off the throttle will go away once the bke is completely warmed up. The CDI is off an enduro model.
The poping you are experiencing when you come off the throttle will go away once the bke is completely warmed up. The CDI is off an enduro model.
RE: Let it warm up
Thanks for the tip, I think it was running a little too lean as well, the guy I got it from lived at about 7000 ft, I live at 5250, that's right in the tricky area of elevation. I dialed in the low setting with the fuel screw and took it out, flip to high at medium revs and it kicked in, on enigine braking, not much popping at all, but dropping a gear and trying to take off agin in hi, no low-end power, more choppy/chugging up to speed, flick to low and low end is great. I guess the switch works correctly, I'll keep it in low for track and trail, then flip to high on long open stretches. I think unplugging the grey wire would just keep it in low always, not a "middle setting", as low position seems to be simply "off" position.
Thanks for the tip, I think it was running a little too lean as well, the guy I got it from lived at about 7000 ft, I live at 5250, that's right in the tricky area of elevation. I dialed in the low setting with the fuel screw and took it out, flip to high at medium revs and it kicked in, on enigine braking, not much popping at all, but dropping a gear and trying to take off agin in hi, no low-end power, more choppy/chugging up to speed, flick to low and low end is great. I guess the switch works correctly, I'll keep it in low for track and trail, then flip to high on long open stretches. I think unplugging the grey wire would just keep it in low always, not a "middle setting", as low position seems to be simply "off" position.
Joined Sep 1998
3K Posts | 57+
NC, US
Re: RE: Let it warm up
if by that, you mean that your system is working correctly, I can assure you that this is not the case. When working correctly, you can't notice a difference between high and low when lugging. I've owned my bike for two years now and have never switched it from high.
pulling the gray wire would leave it in the "low" setting. This was suggested simply as a resolution since your bike doesn't do so well when it's switched on.
thanks,
json
shogun1369 said:
if by that, you mean that your system is working correctly, I can assure you that this is not the case. When working correctly, you can't notice a difference between high and low when lugging. I've owned my bike for two years now and have never switched it from high.
pulling the gray wire would leave it in the "low" setting. This was suggested simply as a resolution since your bike doesn't do so well when it's switched on.
thanks,
json
RE: Re: RE: Let it warm up
this is interesting .the book states start bike from kick in the high position mine wont start put in low and it starts fine hot or cold.change to high and it takes of like a banshee on speed pops and farts on throttle offs but runs greate.but defenatly wont start on high seting
this is interesting .the book states start bike from kick in the high position mine wont start put in low and it starts fine hot or cold.change to high and it takes of like a banshee on speed pops and farts on throttle offs but runs greate.but defenatly wont start on high seting
Joined Sep 1998
3K Posts | 57+
NC, US
RE: Re: RE: Let it warm up
Hi there wesh,
I can neither explain or dispute your experience, but can only say that out of every tech that has visited this site over the years, 100% of them have found that the curve is identical until 3500+ rpm. I imagine that there are outliers with everything, cdi's being no exception
thanks,
json
Hi there wesh,
I can neither explain or dispute your experience, but can only say that out of every tech that has visited this site over the years, 100% of them have found that the curve is identical until 3500+ rpm. I imagine that there are outliers with everything, cdi's being no exception
thanks,
json
Re: RE: Re: RE: Let it warm up
Well thats a strange one Wesh every ignition I have run up from spark up to around 3500rpm you can flick the Grey wire to ground and nothing happens but when it does the advance is smooth and stops 10 degrees shorter than the low position.
With the Grey disconnected the advance above 3500rpm is sharp 15 degree advance just like flicking a light switch but advances 10 degrees more in this position. Hope this gabble makes sense.
Regarding not starting in the HI position thats a mystery I can only report on what I see on the test rig.
Regards
Steve.
Well thats a strange one Wesh every ignition I have run up from spark up to around 3500rpm you can flick the Grey wire to ground and nothing happens but when it does the advance is smooth and stops 10 degrees shorter than the low position.
With the Grey disconnected the advance above 3500rpm is sharp 15 degree advance just like flicking a light switch but advances 10 degrees more in this position. Hope this gabble makes sense.
Regarding not starting in the HI position thats a mystery I can only report on what I see on the test rig.
Regards
Steve.
RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Let it warm up
Mine will start in high or low position, the previous owner told me last night he never switched it to high, as it was already to fast for him and that's why he sold it. Mine does the same thing as Welsh's the farting on the throttle off, but it's better since I dialed the fuel screw. To be honest, I have not had a chance to really take it out and get it up to running heat, 5-10 minutes of disturbing my neighbors is probably not the best way to get up to normal operating temp. I am taking it out tomorrow to some trails with tinkering tools in hand and I'll report back the findings. I would rather run on highswitch if low end power is the same when working correctly. If backfire is to lean, can I assume "farting" and glugging may be to rich?
Mine will start in high or low position, the previous owner told me last night he never switched it to high, as it was already to fast for him and that's why he sold it. Mine does the same thing as Welsh's the farting on the throttle off, but it's better since I dialed the fuel screw. To be honest, I have not had a chance to really take it out and get it up to running heat, 5-10 minutes of disturbing my neighbors is probably not the best way to get up to normal operating temp. I am taking it out tomorrow to some trails with tinkering tools in hand and I'll report back the findings. I would rather run on highswitch if low end power is the same when working correctly. If backfire is to lean, can I assume "farting" and glugging may be to rich?
RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Let it warm up
One last question before I part ways for the weeknd (or until Sunday) can I simply use a Kokusan CDI box, or will that reuqire the igintion/stator mod as descrbed in the doc? I can get a good deal on the KTM part # 59039031200 - I just simply want wide open all the time, none of this HI/lo stuff.
One last question before I part ways for the weeknd (or until Sunday) can I simply use a Kokusan CDI box, or will that reuqire the igintion/stator mod as descrbed in the doc? I can get a good deal on the KTM part # 59039031200 - I just simply want wide open all the time, none of this HI/lo stuff.
RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Let it warm up
im going to go through the wireing today to make sure the wires arnt crossed as the previouse owner hadnt a clue and all conections are bullet type and easely crossed.took it for a run yesterday and had the rear wheel spinning up on tarmack from 40 mph of the throttle in high and third gear. ihave the largest sprokett front and a 42 rear i no its a650 but it can make for some interesting rideing in traffic i supose the engin beeing a tuned exsupermoto doesnt help with things but on dirt most of the new bikes cant catch me.the sem stator will be off to sparks in april so he can check it all out there when he rewinds it
im going to go through the wireing today to make sure the wires arnt crossed as the previouse owner hadnt a clue and all conections are bullet type and easely crossed.took it for a run yesterday and had the rear wheel spinning up on tarmack from 40 mph of the throttle in high and third gear. ihave the largest sprokett front and a 42 rear i no its a650 but it can make for some interesting rideing in traffic i supose the engin beeing a tuned exsupermoto doesnt help with things but on dirt most of the new bikes cant catch me.the sem stator will be off to sparks in april so he can check it all out there when he rewinds it
Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Let it warm up
If life was as so easy as that, sorry mate you need to fit the complete system.
Steve.
If life was as so easy as that, sorry mate you need to fit the complete system.
Steve.
RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Let it warm up
1st real assesment - Took it out for a 2.5 hr trail ride. First of all --I love the bike, fast, quick turner, ran GREAT in the low setting, I did have quite a bit of popping on the deceleration, but power was good and crisp on throttle, fuel screw in either direction did't seem to matter at all. I would be up to speed and go to high switch and wow- turbo boost, with a little bit worse popping on deceleration. In the high setting, it idles ok, but the 1/8 throttle to 1/4 throttle it stumbles, so I am cleaning the carb tonight, as I think the PJ may be dirty--- I just learned from the previous owner, he ALWAYS left the gas petcock on year round (leaded AV gas, no less) and it hadn't been started since last Sept. I always start out kinda slow in first gear and then once in second, really start riding, so once up on the throttle everything is great, actually superb. It ran good off throttle in low though, no detectable lurching and low is fine for most of my riding, and in the desert wide open, I know I can flip to HI and still be smooth, so I gues it's one of the quirks I can live with or hopefully cure with a good carb cleaning. Thanks for everybodys help, especially sparks.
1st real assesment - Took it out for a 2.5 hr trail ride. First of all --I love the bike, fast, quick turner, ran GREAT in the low setting, I did have quite a bit of popping on the deceleration, but power was good and crisp on throttle, fuel screw in either direction did't seem to matter at all. I would be up to speed and go to high switch and wow- turbo boost, with a little bit worse popping on deceleration. In the high setting, it idles ok, but the 1/8 throttle to 1/4 throttle it stumbles, so I am cleaning the carb tonight, as I think the PJ may be dirty--- I just learned from the previous owner, he ALWAYS left the gas petcock on year round (leaded AV gas, no less) and it hadn't been started since last Sept. I always start out kinda slow in first gear and then once in second, really start riding, so once up on the throttle everything is great, actually superb. It ran good off throttle in low though, no detectable lurching and low is fine for most of my riding, and in the desert wide open, I know I can flip to HI and still be smooth, so I gues it's one of the quirks I can live with or hopefully cure with a good carb cleaning. Thanks for everybodys help, especially sparks.
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