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Help 2005 fe550

Joined Jan 2011
3 Posts | 0+
Modesto,Ca USA
My 550 starts easy, but when I grab the throttle it dies.
Not sure if it's valves or carburetor. Seams to over heat also
 
Carb problem. How fast are you twisting the throttle? It could be the accelerator pump (unlikely) or a partially clogged pilot jet. Or the needle clip may be in the wrong position (should be in the 6th from top if the needle is an OBDVT). The stock needle is really too lean and I installed an OBDVR needle in mine with the clip in #6. I need to install the needle I got from for a Yamaha YZ450F which is supposed to work better but haven't yet.
 
I forgot to mention that you may have an air leak - check the clamps on both ends of the carb and also check for cracks in the intake manifold or a slit air boot. Even if that is the problem the stock needle is still too lean for optimum performance.

I finally decided to do something about mine last summer and someone here gave me the Yamaha part #.

my 650 had a idle problem i had to use this needle to fix it "NCVR" i have a 35 pj and 45 PA
you can get it @ you local Yamaha dealer part No: 5TA-14916-VR-00
 
Thank you for your help! I have been working on my bike on and off for about a week. The more I work on it,
the more I appreciate the engineering of it. There are a couple of things that are puzzling me.
1. how do you route the throttle cable. Several ways I tried seem to pinch it just enough to slow the return action.
2. I tried to adjust the valves, but I couldn't find were to put the feeler gauge. I finally put it back together so I
could race it this weekend. But need some info. My owners manual is not telling me anything.
 
Throttle cables route down below the tank rubber mount and above the radiator mount one above the other. I found my cable was sticking on when turned right so I had to get rid of this cable tidy thing I was using with the Scotts steering damper it was causing the problem.

For valves check the owners Doc or do a search you will find a sh*tload of good info.
 
The easiest way to check the valves is to loosen the lock nut and set screw, get the feeler guage in between, adjust until you can move the feeler guage with a bit of resistance, tighten the lock nut, then remove the feeler guage.

An alternative method is to snug up the set screw against valve, back off 1/6 turn and then tighten the lock nut. This is the fastest and doesn't require fishing a feeler gauage into the tight quarters of the valve/rocker arm area.

If you do use a feeler guage you will need to bend the end of it in a vise (or use pliers) to get it into place unless you have a pre-bent one (I have one for the KTM RFS motors which is narrower than the standard feeler guages and also one that I self-bent when I got my '96 FE501 in the pre-RFS days).
 
Thank you for all your help. I was able to race this weekend and think I did quite well. The bike was running sweet!!
Thanks again
 
ameriweld said:
Thank you for all your help. I was able to race this weekend and think I did quite well. The bike was running sweet!!
Thanks again

so are you just going to leave us in suspense?

is that really fair? :roll: :roll:
:cheers: :cheers:

regards

Taffy
 

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