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Help! 02 FE501 with No spark!!

Joined Jul 2011
2 Posts | 0+
Hi guys, I am a newb here and like most forum newbs I am starting out asking for help to solve a problem.
I recently (2 weeks ago) purchased a very clean 02 FE501. It had been sitting a while and the owner had a hard time getting it to run and when it did it ran like crap, coughing and spluttering.
The price was right and I figured it would just need a carb clean and all would be good so I bought it.

I removed and cleaned the carb, still no go.
I put a spark tester in the line and it had spark.
So I kept kicking it over (batt was dead so I could not use the elec start).....nothing.
I replaced the spark plug with a new one....nothing.

Now there is no spark so I am not sure if it is an intermittant probem or if it is now completely dead. I have not been able to get spark again.

I hooked up a battery with some juice. I have power to the ignition switch. When the key is on, I have power to the starter switch....the starter switch turns the motor....no spark.
There is an orange wire going from the ignition switch to the coil. I assume that once you turn the key that it should have power to it....it doesn't.

What should I check next?
Is my assumption that the orange wire should have power when the key is on correct?
I don't really want to replace the coil on a guess....

Thanks in advance for any help!!

Cheers!


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First, check the ignition ground - it is through the volltage regulator and if the regulator is a bit loose you will not have any spark. Also, the ignition may be on it's way out. I had the same symptoms with my '02 FE650 until I replaced the stator coil assembly. Also, if the bike has sat for some time with gas in the carburator the pilot jet may be clogged up and the best fix is to replace it with a new one - I have not had much success with getting the deposits from modern gas cleaned out of them.

If the problem is the ignition, Rick at http://www.offroadboss.com/ had new ones in stock and may still have one. Also, rewound ones are avalible. He also has jets in stock for the Dellorto carbs. Once I replaced the ignition on my 650 it was real easy to start with the kick starter. FYI, the electric starters on the ones of that vintage are mainly for re-starting as they are too weak for cold starting and the batteries run out of power real quick also. Another thing to check is the plug cap as it may have come loose from the wire while pulling the cap off the plug and you may need to un-screw it form the wire, clip a bit off the wire, and screw it back on. Sometimes a new plug cap helps.

Another thing you may want to check is the adjustment of the semi-auto compression release that is actuated by the k/s lever. (The owner's manual has instructions on doing this and if you don't have one you can download one from http://www.husaberg.com/Downloads.33.0.html.) Another item that sometimes needs replacement is the auto-decomp spring that works off the camshaft but it is needed only for the electric starter to work efficiantly and replacement requires pulling the cam (it does seem like I was able to do it without removing the cam bet it was tricky).

If you are new to Husabergs and modern high-performance 4-strokes you may need to learn the proper starting technique. What I typically do for cold starts is to turn the choke on, get the piston up on compression stroke using the k/s lever, pull in the manual compression release and get the piston just past tdc, release the c/r lever and let the k/s lever return to the top, and then give it a firm, thorough, kick. Fortunately for you, the 501 takes less energy to kick over than the 650. I have been riding Husabergs since the mid '90s (my first one was a kick start only '96 FE501) so starting these bikes is almost second nature to me. I've also found that cold starting is easier if you have 5W-50 or 10W-50 motor oil in them as it produces less drag when cold than say 15W-50 or 20W-50.

Randy
 
Hi and welcome

Since you are new to bergs let me tell you that these bikes are a littel special, this 01 - 03 are great but most need some changes.
Stick arround this fórum and youl see.

The orange wire you talk is the kill switch.

I would recomend that you first check the stator values, go to the owners docs then electrical.
Also clean the carb and let us know your jeting.

You will find great help here, keep us posted
:cheers:
Zaga
 
Hi again

To help I'm going to give you the values that are important now:

- Black + Red - 3000 Ohm +/-10% (Charge)
- Black + Green - 165 Ohm +/- 10% (Triger)

The yellows and blue, are for batt. so doesn't mater for now.

If its ok so far, try to mesure the charge of the red and of the green when you kick it, to see if it gets to the minimum values.
You must have a multimeter that holds the max. value to check it.
Some times your stator is ok but you are not reaching the minimum values with your kicking technic or for some other mechanical reason.
This is most important because the crap of the SEM has lots of problems reaching this minimal values.

If you can't start it with kick I don't belive that you will with the e-start, so leave it for now, thats second stage. I will let you know latter.

After these you should be starting to find were is your problem, if its electrical or mechanical. It can be a lot of things.

:cheers:
ZAGA
 
Thanks for the info guys! :D
I was hoping to work on it today but something else has come up so it has to go on the back burner for a couple of weeks (MotoGP next weekend!).
I will update my findings as soon as I get to look at it again.
 
yes it'll be the stator and it'll be the red to black numbers. both sparks and I have these in stock.

regards

Taffy
 

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