Helmet light!

Boheme,

I do not have any experience of my own with mounting a helmet light but I thought I might be able to help you. A good friend and riding partner of mine had picked up a unit several years ago from a mountain biking website. I tried searching for the unit but could not locate it. I did however come across THIS and it is somewhat the same. The one that my partner had was called an "Ultra death ray" and it was billet aluminum and had duel lights on it. It was made to be mounted to the handlebars of your bike and worked pretty good. However, my mate set the unit up so that it was mounted to his jaw/mouth guard of his helmet. This allowed him to point the light in the direction he was facing which makes more sense. He liked it very much and it worked excellently. After one season of riding with the battery unit, he spliced into the lighting coil of his KTM 520EXC and no longer had to worry about the battery in his Camelpack. This was the ultimate set up in my opinion. Too bad his bike along with the mentioned unit was stolen only a short time after he had set it up. I would strongly recommend getting yourself set up with a system like I described if you do any prolonged riding in the dark. Many of the Baja teams also use a lighting similar to what I described and it seems to work well. Hope this helps and let us know how you do it if you decide to make a unit up for yourself. You can make a top notch unit like I described for about $250-300 USD.

Regards,

Hi boheme what kind of light are attempting mount some halogens are
screwed into vizor and few of the HID lights uses velcro, Halogen use lot
of power dont matter if running AC or DC current, HID can only function
DC current , available power and what kind power tells you what can do
what do you have ? or is it something your going to get ?
VIKING

Boheme,

Sandskipper beat me to the point. But I will take his idea and add another suggestion. When tapping into the engine power, use the same jack as that of a 1/8" or 3.5mm headphone jack. It will provide you with a quick-release mechanism (so you don't get strangled), and it should be able to move enough current to power some decent sized lamps.

-Parsko

Which kind of money are we talking about?

Halogen is a quick and cheap solution and will work.
I have used Halogen but I have converted to HID.

I would like also to mount an helmet light and, when surfing on the net looking for, I stoped on a site from a guy who as a long experience in night rides on bicycle.
He told me that the light on helmet don't show you the bumps and the holes in your way, because the angle of the light.

Generally speaking at really high speeds you need a full on flood (which is bright enough to be bar mounted) bar mounted lights have the advantage of producing strong shadows behind objects e.g. a large rock in your path. Helmet mounted lights being so close to your eye line make it all look flat (the rock appears as a flat grey shape). The advantage of helmet lights is that if they are of lower power, you can at least point them where you need to. A small focussed spot on the bar is all but useless.

Try these guys if you think it's for you: http://www.trailtech.net/helmet_mounted ... kits_1.htm (best value very bright lights)

boheme/Husby,

If I may add another suggestion or idea to ponder :idea: I have also talked to people that like a set-up with one flood light and one pencil beam. They like to focus the pencil beam out in front for long distance visibility and the flood to illuminate the area directly in front of them. Don't know from experience how this works but just a thought 8)

Regards,

Yes, lights on the helmet only will make the world two dimensional. You need a light on the bike as well but if you do not have enough power you should put the light on the helmet.

You go there you are looking and not there the head light pointing. In open terrain you can probably use lights on the bike only but in the narrow tracks I will say that you need lights on the helmet.

The set-up is normally two halogen spots with 8 degrees and 24 degrees beam respectively. You shall only use the best quality cold beam you can find. Philips Master Line ES or similar quality of Osram. If you go AC you can boost the voltage to around 15.5 V and get out as much as you can but the life time will decrease a lot. From thousands of hours to hundreds. If you go higher we are talking about perhaps around ten hours.