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Hell in head

Joined Aug 2009
10 Posts | 0+
JHB,South Africa
Well, it had to happen!

2002 650 cam gear bolt came loose and all hell broke loose.

Bent valves, etc, etc, etc.

My problem is now that I have replaced all bent, broken and/or worn parts, it will not run. I suspect I have not lined up all timing marks correctly or have not put cam in correctly at TDC.

Could someone please help with relevant info as down south in SA the Husaberg brand is not well known and all my local sources are unable to help.

RONALD

FC 550 (GOING STRONG)
FE 650 (DEAD)

edited to replace the big letters with little letters
 
STOP SHOUTING!!!! :evil: :D


Line up the dots on the primary gear and the other gear like this, take great care doing this, it's easy to have it 1 tooth wrong.

316066629.jpg


DSC02816.jpg



This is how the cam should be when putting on the chain, cam lobes at 11 and 1 o clock position, easiest way is to put a metal ruler over both lobes and then measure to the cilinder head, try and get both distances the same.

316066625.jpg


Just a quick question did you use the stock valve springs or did you use the dual springs from KTM?


Christof.
 
Hi Guys,
Try doing this with the cam lobes down, not up. because when you put the rocker box back in place you then have to load the rockers up to tension it down. If you do it with the lobes down it is easier and you don't have to rotate the motor to then adjust the valves correctly!
Regards
Sutto
 
Hey Christof

Thank you for pics, all is as I have assembled i can only assume that my valve clearances are not enough, I am using 0.1mm inlet and exhaust?

RONALD

PS. I have learned not to shout anymore!
 
RONALD said:
Hey Christof

Thank you for pics, all is as I have assembled i can only assume that my valve clearances are not enough, I am using 0.1mm inlet and exhaust?

RONALD

PS. I have learned not to shout anymore!

R U using the original Husaberg valve springs?

Are U sure that the engine is on the compression stroke (both valves closed) when setting the valves?

I also use 0.1mm for the valves.
 
Sutto's said:
Hi Guys,
Try doing this with the cam lobes down, not up. because when you put the rocker box back in place you then have to load the rockers up to tension it down. If you do it with the lobes down it is easier and you don't have to rotate the motor to then adjust the valves correctly!
Regards
Sutto

they do it that way up to get the cam timing right sutto. when happy, you rotate the engine 360d at the crank and mount the rocker cover.

anon

tappet clearances should be .12mm and i would say that's the minimum and i give the exhausts more.

regards

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
Sutto's said:
Hi Guys,
Try doing this with the cam lobes down, not up. because when you put the rocker box back in place you then have to load the rockers up to tension it down. If you do it with the lobes down it is easier and you don't have to rotate the motor to then adjust the valves correctly!
Regards
Sutto

they do it that way up to get the cam timing right sutto. when happy, you rotate the engine 360d at the crank and mount the rocker cover.

anon

tappet clearances should be .12mm and i would say that's the minimum and i give the exhausts more.

regards

Taffy

Isn't it different with the older bikes? My manual says 0.1?
 
Doing the job with the lobes up is the same as doing the job twice, as it is no harder to get the cam timing right than doing the arse about way shown! and as for your valve clearance at .12 this design head actually gets more valve clearance when it gets temperature into it, so do your valves to the .1mm or 1/8 turn method for the correct clearance once at running temperature.
Regards
Sutto
 
you nasty git. another whinging aussie!

look, you get a very accurate idea of the valve timing with the lobes up - VERY accurate, almost perfect. it takes 5 seconds to turn the crank 360 degrees to lobes down. now if you think 5 seconds is too long to get the cam timing spot on then fine, we know where you stand.

after all, none of us are in your workshop to see you get it wrong and spend AN HOUR putting it right.

if you can't say it without going off on one then phuck off ok.

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
you nasty git. another whinging aussie!

look, you get a very accurate idea of the valve timing with the lobes up - VERY accurate, almost perfect. it takes 5 seconds to turn the crank 360 degrees to lobes down. now if you think 5 seconds is too long to get the cam timing spot on then fine, we know where you stand.

after all, none of us are in your workshop to see you get it wrong and spend AN HOUR putting it right.

if you can't say it without going off on one then phuck off ok.

Taffy

Forgot to take your pills this morning, old man? :D :D Take it easy, or you'll scare the Afrikaner away :)!
 
Sutto's said:
Doing the job with the lobes up is the same as doing the job twice, as it is no harder to get the cam timing right than doing the arse about way shown! and as for your valve clearance at .12 this design head actually gets more valve clearance when it gets temperature into it, so do your valves to the .1mm or 1/8 turn method for the correct clearance once at running temperature.
Regards
Sutto

I personally find it easier doing it with the lobes up, this way I can measure it with a steel ruler to the cilinder head, with the lobes down, I gues you'd have to eyeball it, wich has greater risk to making a small mistake? To each his own I guess!

I've set my valves at 0.1mm, with no problems so far, starts and runs good! (fingers crossed :D )
 
Taffy said:
you nasty git. another whinging limey

if you can't say it without going off on one then phuck off ok.

Taffy

Hello Kettle? This is Pot.......

I set my valves to 0.1 cold.
 
Look Taffy you spineless prick! you Phuck off, if you read to thing properly I was not having a go, just do the job properly and unlike you I don't spend an hour redoing the job because it gets done right the first time, so Phuck you.
Sutto
 
I get on this site to help where I can, not to be abused by some home tuner who thinks he knows all. So if this is the way dealers are to be treated when giving genuine advice to those that ask, sorry guys your on your own I've got better things to do like actually go ride my Husaberg.
Over and out
Sutto
 
mmmph ah mmmph phh phh (Queen song, you know) another one bites the dust ! Taffy's dust that is.

I promised myself not to sign in to this site again, but this one is too good to be missed !

And anyone wonders why this is an exclusive "club?"

OBAY TAFFY (or GTFO) !

(smiles)
 
that's more like it, a bit of wit! see, twice as good and twice as clever! why can't you always have GSOH. life's better with a smile!

regards

Taffy
 
Sutto, your input is very much appreciated. We want more dealers here. Also it is a good chance to find out where the punters are confused. Perhaps you could feed back the areas of confusion to the factory. One of Husabeg's advantages over other brands is that a lot of the dealers are enthusiasts that help owners like you do. I also note your input on the 09 model hicups that is very helpful and very welcome. I also know some Berg brass take a look in here every now and again to see what is happening.

It should be remembered that there is a big time difference for members who are inputting ideas and sometimes members only get on the web after work and perhaps a few.... and then a few drinks. I recall once coming home from a motocross win and having a celebration drinks... before I put the bike away I thought it was a good idea to just have a quick ride. It went well until the bike over took me. Some people on a hill watching thought it was the best thing they had seen for a long time.
 
Hey all

Just got the beast started, thank you all for advice now all i need to do is sort out decompression as i can only bump start.
Will talk again soon.
RONALD
AFRIKANER
 

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