heavier springs

Do they have a chart in your manual? Which year and model is it?

Spend a few bucks and go see a tuner, it's probably the best thing to spend a few bucks on.

There are a bunch of people who can give you spring rates from the top of their head, but only a pro tuner can make it work for you.

mr le frog mentioned the chart in your manual , this chart is your best friend set it up as the chart states. then adjust 1or2 clicks at a time noting down the adjustments you make , also it depends on what type of terrain you ride on.

we need to know where you're from, where you ride, what you ride and year of bike, your level of skill?

then we have the fact that the charts here don't say 84 for your weight or 48 either come to that!!!!

on the rear a progressive rate spring still gets the nod from most and even if it was a straight rate i believe that for 200LB you should be running an 88 or 90 rear. on the front you should be running 46s or 44s.

if you still have the old springs-what were they? fit one old (say 42) with your 48 and see how that feels. this will make an average of 45 for instance.

you won't get the right sag with that spring. i have a letter with david larsson from the factory asking him to clarify the situation. my book says 85-100 but others are using 100-115 and trying to get 115.

remember though that the husey has a slightly different shock angle and the front end on the pre '03s is kicked out and this means we shouldn't follow ktm religously.... be aware!!!!

the forks suffer from too much compression and you have clearly learnt this on yours and wound the clickers right out. you need lighter springs and then a re-valve.

an easy way out has been mentioned with the springs by me above. another 'quickie' is to go to 2.5W oil.

after that i suggest you go to the 'doc' and start studying how it all works. if you're prepared to do the work yourself you could save a lot of money.

regards

Taffy

PDS3-250 to PDS 4-250 in the rear, 4.6 to 4.8 in the front, may not be a necessary respring for your weight. These Swedish-designed, Austrian-built bikes are made for Northern-European types of guys, and they can handle a 200lbs rider as is. But you'll be fine with what you have now.

110mm of oil is what the 48mm WP forks need. No idea how many CCs that is. As Taffy says, Motorex 2.5W is a good oil (pricey stuff, though).

Compression and rebound clicks have nothing in common. You need to setup the compression first, then the rebound. You set up by riding and testing, not by guesstimating in your garage and then you go riding hoping for the best.

You need to dedicate a ride just to that type of stuff, you'll be happy you did.

Compression: how your forks react to terrain roughness. Ride a track or trail with a lot of holes and bumps and adjust until it is stiff but not too much. Go from plush to stiff by cliking IN.

Rebound: how your bike handles in the turns. If the bike tends to wash out: click out, because your rebound damping is just too harsh. If it tends to turn too sharply: click in.

For the rear, adjust your sag first, and then adjust the rebound, then the compression.

It's good to bring a screwdriver on the trail after that, you can always adjust and test right away.

jezuuuz froggy! since when were you an expert?

well i'll have to give what i think is correct information and mex can make his own mind up.

first of all there has alwayss been a small disparity between the standard clicks in the WP manual and those in the husey hand book. please don't fret because husey order the forks how they want them and so they are entitled to decide how the clicks are set. go by the husey manual.

next. weight of spring. at best they are going to be "firm" at worst, thewy will feel very spiky and brutal-especially the forks.

you can mix one old spring with one new one. how did you come to have .46 in? these are standard are they? well i would recommend that they were better for you. put it this way, i'm 200 pounds and i'm running 46s and thinking of trying a 46 and an old 44. does this help?

how much preload is in the forks? how many plastic rings?

secondly, your old rear spring which was an 80 and made for 150 pound rider is now an 9.75 (half way between 8.5 and 11) and for 240-260 pound rider.

i'm about to test a 88 or 90 straight rate and also a PDS2 which is 7.5 to 9.7 which is an average of 8.6. this will be in the ball park.

with your spring i would try getting your sag figures wiyth NO PRELOAD at all. just turn the ring to pinch the spring and stop it wobbling!

you need 115 race sag and 30-35 sag.

your air gap should not be 110mm as froggy says. forget it. it's about 135-140mm.

although i don't have an '05 or '06 machine, my tuner set my bike to '06 shim stacks so i CAN help here!

you'll end up with your comp wound out completely-all the way i would think. they are very poor and i'm glad i live in a wet country because they 'spike' me enough as it is-awful forks really!

i'm making modifications right now and you're welcome to follow them as you wish.


talking about your coolant again. i would fit a catch bottle from an old yamaha WR400. we have some photos in 'splat's' gallery for you. also the catch bottle is standard on '06s and may be a retro fit.

remember that 2.5 oil will help with little bumps.

regards

Taffy

Taffy, not pretending to be an expert, just stating the obvious. I also have been playing with suspension for a while on my own and now spending some serious time learning that stuff.

At his point, he has already changed the springs (which was not necessary, IMHO), all he has to do is play with the clickers until he has it right.

Or he takes it to a pro tuner who will do the job for him, but even then, you still have to adjust the clickers sometimes.

Giving us numbers of clicks and asking us to comment will not do anything because we don't put our ***** on his bike.

berg mex

what we need is this

sag?
race sag?
how much you compressed the rear spring?

let's get that sorted first.

i would be very suprised if you didn't find the front end very harsh.

try and get full travel by having a 135-140mm air gap.

please report back.

regards

Taffy

could be that you have a broken shim in the forks if you felt such a radical change in performance.

when you change the oil you'll notice if there are any bits of metal. if not all is well and it was your imagination sir!!!

you need full travel and so the air gap will have to be around 135-140mm. you will have to turn the compression CCW on the forks to make them feel better i'm sure.

other than that, let's see how you go.

regards

Taffy