Heating the Cases

concur with both, however i made a right pigs ear of whacking them in the cases in the garage. it was like i was chasing a rat around the workshop. either take it to an engineer to have the bearings pressed in when it won't even matter IF you did it or at least have a mate hold the cases still with the bit of case you need over a solid block of wood (the bearing mouth).

regards

Taffy

I used an hour at 350 F.

make sure you have your setup ready.

press/tap on the outer race only. Keep the bearing straight when installing it in. If it starts to tip and a light tap will not straighten it then remove it and start over.

support the case on wooden blocks

if you are using ball bearings on the crank instead of roller bearings you need to reheat the case (with the beaings in the case) to get the crank to fit in the bearings if you do not have the crank puller described in the Shop Manual.

A good socket set would have the size of tool to just cover the outer race while installing the bearings in the case

If you are using roller bearings on the crank, you have to set the crank end play in the case, which is very critical.

Regards,

Joe

here in the uk they do a small domestic oven called a baby belling just right for popping the berg engine cases in , best way i've found is pop your bearings in the freezer for a few hours leave the cases in at 200c for half a hour and you will find the bearing's drop in a treat good luck regards steve

When I bought my 2001 it came with a video that explained maintenance, set up etc... In the video you can see a **** installing bearings in the cases wearing one huge glove and the other hand without using a pair of pliers that had what looked like a duck bill end perpendicular to the handles that expanded when the handles were pulled together. The pliers were also spring loaded to return to the closed position, she was using the pliers to pickup the bearings which she had laid out, and it appeared that they were just dropping into the cases.

I believe in the late model manuals that it describes heating the cases to install the bearings in the cases. I know for sure that shows preheating the inner race of the crank bearings to get them on the crank.

Go to the downloads area and look at the video that I was talking about, she makes it look pretty easy!!

Jim,

I too, can confirm the 200degC/350-400F for about 1/2 hour method.

ocotillo_jim said:

Now, I just have to figure a good way to convince the wife it's OK to bake oily, smelly engine parts in the oven.

Click to expand...

This is easy part: do it when she is gone! When she comes home and asks why is smells like oil, just make sure you're wearing the same shirt you did the rebuild with. Explain;
"I was hungry, and decided to make a sandwich, that must be it".
When you get busted for making the oven smell like oil, explain;
"you make the oven smell like **** every time you bake something, why can't I?".
When she says that what she does is sanitary, explain;
"I didnt' ask you to de-stink the bathroom after you took that massive dump before going to the fish store!!"
At this point, either; the first roast she cooks might taste a little like your Husaberg, or; the first roast you cook in your new bachelor pad might taste a little like your Husaberg, which would be parked in the kitchen, and the pan you used for YOUR roast would have been catching the oil dripping off your berg!

My point, it doesn't matter what you say, just get the bike back together and use it to get away from her. No matter what, you're gonna be in trouble!

-Parsko

PS- An old large toaster oven works good too. Otherwise, I used a press when I did mine, no heat.

ocotillo_jim said:

Thanks for the replies guys. I was thinking along those lines, and it is nice to have it confirmed by others. The temps and times are appreciated.

Joe, For main bearings, my bike has a roller bearing on one side and a ball bearing on the other. Is crank end play critical in this configuration? I would think the crank is bottomed on the ball bearing, and kind of "floats" axially in the roller bearing.

I'm having the crank rebuilt by Craig Hanson in Chico, Ca.

I have an arbor press and old bearings, sockets, bearing drivers, etc. to make sure only the outer race is getting pressed.

Playing "chase the case" does seems like fun though.

Now, I just have to figure a good way to convince the wife it's OK to bake oily, smelly engine parts in the oven.

Click to expand...

Jim,

Yes, the crank is bottomed on the ball bearing, and kind of "floats" axially in the roller bearing.

But like I said, you either need to use a custom tool like in the Husaberg workshop manual or reheat the case to get the crank to slide through the bearing without damaging it. See page 40 and 48 of the 99 workshop Manual. The installation tool pushes on the inner race of the gearing and pulls on the end of the crank shaft to assemble the two parts together.

Don't forget the crank seal.

Regards,

Joe

I install a lot of bearings into landing gear parts at work. To get a good chill on the bearings we use dry ice and isopropyl alcohol. We put the bearings in a cooler, then cover them with an alcohol bath, and add dry ice. This will get much colder than just the freezer. I am not sure if this will work for you or not, but it is a thought if you have any difficulties getting the bearings in with just heating the cases.

Plumbers pipe freeze kit ??

Regards
Ady

The alcohol will not freeze, so the entire bearing is soaked in the cold solution. It is just what the mil specs call out for subzero installation of bearings. I can't guarantee how well it will work for this style of bearing, but it should get more shrinkage than just the freezer.