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Handling of fe570

Joined Dec 2008
279 Posts | 0+
Bucks. region ,South East UK
Hi, went out on trail yesterday thro snow, packed ice, mud and deep water 140 miles.
Early morning hit a downhill secton of road glazed over in clear ice, a few went down, sliding with bikes hitting others like a game of skittles lol.
I have put a 76 spring in for this ride giving 38/117 8mm preload and have a scotts damper on, forks are stock and showing 5mm above clamps. All clickers are at standard.

First section was a hill climb thro woods over 1" layer of snow with soft mud roots below making it quite slippery.
The two bikes in front both got stuck, 450ktm was down sideways and a 525 spinning away just over halfway up. I have 14/52 gearing, mapping on standard,clicked into 2nd gear and sailed up to the top changing direction twice to get round the others. This is what the berg is best at, as usually, changing direction on a climb is where it can all end quickly but the berg makes it easy.
There is def a slight skittishness in the rear but i am used to it now , it slides side to side slightly but adjusts quickly when you power on and follows the front straight and true. My 530 would hold the back better but when it did spin offline it would send the bike in a different direction whereas the berg follows the front which is really well planted, wher you point it is where it goes.
Having done over 400 miles now with no offs, i know i would have def been off a few times on the 530 from the front tucking in/washing out.
I think the ride could be a bit plusher over whoops/dips and rough terrain, maybe an 80 spring with less preload?
I might be wrong as i havent tried the sags in the manual but i believe these bergs work well at 35-40 static and 115-120 race. I am not bottoming front or rear but have not slammed it around a track yet.
As i said the berg runs straight and true with the planted front, no twitch and its great at changing lines quickly at speed but the front now seems to be bobbing even pogoing up & down even on flat tarmac, it gets particularly dramatic on decel from high speed ?

Any advice on clicker adjusts that might help would be gratefully received, as i have first event in race mode this weekend.
Maybe Dale or Chris (cimwill) could help here? As you are same weight and have 570 s.
Also tried stony berm at speed, laid the bike over and it seems to want to carry on turning when you counter to go out straight on ?

Cheers,
Nick
 
Hey Nick,

Nice write up on your ride.

If you have gone to the next higher spring in the back b/c of your weight, you probably need to go to the next higher spring rate on the front. What do you think?

I'm running .46KG's in the front, and a 76 to 95 PDS 7 in the rear. The static is set at 30mm at the moment but it's still settling in. Initially it was at 26mm of static, will have a friend help with rider sag soon and post. I did check it the other day out in the desert, but, the ground was soft and uneven, so the reading of 85mm's of rider sag is probably not totally reliable. After it finishes settling I will set it to 100.

I think the reason the bike feels like it wants to keep on turning has a few reasons, one being that with the crank up high like that, once the bike is tipped over it kind of wants to stay over. Have you noticed that it doesn't want to stand up in turns when you really throw it in there? And I think the other reason is that your fork springs are a bit too soft for your weight as well.

I was riding in the desert today over a lot of loose rocks going up and down hills with embedded rocks that acted like stair steps. And with my recent re spring and revalve I found the bike to be more stable, IE less deflection on these obstacles as compared to the stock set up.
 
I have 7.6 on the rear with 9mm preload this with the rear axle forward of center 13/52 116 links, I have also run the axle back with 118 links( I shortened it to take weight off the front) I have the rear HS 1.25 out, comp 12 and rebound 15. I have tried sags from around 100-120 also forks up and down in the clamps. I have settled on 35/105-110.

I am trying to get the front sorted now, the suspension action is v. good, it is the handling I feel is not right yet. I have the Comp at 15 I tried lighter settings and you tend to get a bobbing feel, this is still a very plush setting and going in more does not seem to stiffen it. Preload is at 7 turns and am now sure I need stiffer springs I have ordered 0.46s.The rebound clicker makes quite big changes with only a handful of clicks, at 15 out the ride was starting to get a bit chattery with the front wheel not following small ruts and holes and I thing contributing to the front nervousness after you turn in, I am at 20 out and feel it is about right there.

Take this for what its worth, I am no suspension guy but I notice that after turn in (counter steer) when I go on the gas and the front wants to slip out, quite unnerving in 4th gear turns, adding front rebound makes it worse and increasing rear sag makes the bike slow to turn-in and wants to push wide as a whole. It is not to bad if you are sitting but I ride standing and would be forward on this sort of corner.

I will wait for the 0.46s and pull one of the mid valve bleed shims to see if I can get the forks stay up a bit better as I feel this is my issue and am hoping its this easy to fix .

Chris
 
Thanks Dale and Chris, great info as usual.
Looks like i'm due the 0.46s on the fork springs then.
Dale, thats exactly it, the berg drops down like a 125 and is happy to stay there, requires more input to stand up again, like the inertia or weight in the crank is working against you for a moment.

Chris, i hear you on the 116, i like 14/52 so its 118 for me which im happy with.The 116 worked well but took the wheel to far forward for 14/52.
Let me know if the heavier fork springs work for you, i will up the preload on mine for now and play with clickers to keep me out of trouble.
I am also tempted to maybe up the rear spring to an 8.0 as i can be 220 + lbs with all gear, tools,wateretc and this would enable me to lower the sags a bit with a lesser preload than the 7.6. I know they come with 10mm on but i dont want to wind up the 7.6 to 10-12 mm to acheive the right sags. I think the pds susp works best around 6mm.


Cheers Guys,

Nick
 
Hi NKW570
there are some handling quirks that could be experienced with lots of sag
point is that with high sag number you change the fork angle,
example if you are going down a steep hill weight will transfer forward compressing the
fork resulting in a steeper fork angle since the weight is forward the rear susp. will extend to give the bike an even steeper fork angle and the opposite would be true
going up a steep hill, so if you have less sag it will have less effect on fork angle
problem that could be had with this is that the bike feels twitchy knifing in going down
the hill and going up hill the bike very stable and slow to steer lazy feeling
give your self some time to set up the bike in an area where you test the same object
with different setting
I would not be eager to go to a heavier spring since the high speed rebound marginal
with the 7.6 spring, 8,0 would just make it worse
my suggestion would be to adjust sag closer to spec and slide fork down in the triple clamps, on my 450 the the fork cap is even with triple clamp and close to 110 sag
you describe a bouncing / pogo effect on asphalt I think that is just unbalance wheel
blame the wheel lock

Later VIKING
 
Hi Viking,

Am happy to try your suggestion as it makes sense.
I will do those settings before the weekend and see how it feels.
To acheive those sags from the 7.6, i will need to increase preload another one or two turns and i am around 8mm at the moment, is this ok?
How much preload would you consider too much with the pds susp ?

Thanks,

Nick
 
Nick
8mm preload is not the determining factor, static and rider sag is, it just Gage to get
the sag in the ball park since you cant adjust sag when the shock is on the bike.
what I notice is that when get 10mm preload static sag is getting close to the lower
limit, don't tighten adjuster ring lock screw too tight it will distort shock bore,
you need to compensate for the stronger spring by turning in shock rebound my shock
21 clicks out

later VIKING
 

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