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Groove in water pump shaft

Joined Sep 2005
494 Posts | 0+
Michigan
I noticed a water leak from the weep hole, when I popped the side cover off to replace the seal and o-ring I noticed that the shaft was worn.

http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?set_a ... _photo.php

Is this something that warrants replacement or install new seal and leave as is? Also, could this be due to dirt getting in through the weep hole and some collecting underneath the seal?

I think I know the answer but want a second, third, fourth opinion...

Thanks... :( :cry:
 
thats a fair bit of wear

use some fine sand paper to work on the wear point , when all else fails you can install the w/p seal backwards .

or shell out $$$
 
Thanks whosahberg, I figured as much. :?

So it will take splitting the cases. The motor has 134.5 hours and 2800+ miles on it. While I'm in there, time for some TLC...
 
Mine's grooved also. The seal is designed to contain fluid continiously from one side only. Try it and see how long it lasts and let us know. Someone needs to make a repair sleeve for these.
 
I'll give it a go. What's the worse that could happen right?

Right? :shock:

Well, I'll try when I get a replacement seal for the replacement seal I just messed up trying to install. The new one's are metal and the original is rubber??? I figured the metal one is going to be a ****** to put in so I went so far as to throw it in the freezer for the night, maybe it'd help. Apparently it didn't. How the heck do yo install them without messing them up?
 
right i'm gonna give you loads of info here...

firstly, if anything, i would warm the seal up not chill it! the idea is that it should bend, and bend and bend but never tear!

secondly, i vaso my shaft and when it comes to vasoing shafts i'm the bloody expert right!

thirdly, when you put the cover on, feed the shaft through in a 'Z' motion for the cover - rather like a steering wheel :left, right, left, right

fourthly, get one or even two narrower seals. piss- o-piss. just change the depth/thickness code number down and order two. easy peasy lemon squeezy!
this way you can put a seal infront of as well as behind the groove and you can put a drop of oil between the two

fifthly, the seals really only want to work one way round - to keep the water out. lesson hard learnt here i'm afraid and if whosaberg has got away with it well....i can't argue!!!!!!!

sixthly, you can hook the old one out as it's knackered and press the new one in without even removing the sidecover.

so how's that my man!

regards

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
right i'm gonna give you loads of info here...

firstly, if anything, i would warm the seal up not chill it! the idea is that it should bend, and bend and bend but never tear!

Will do, I've got a 1000 degF heat gun in the garage, either I'll warm the seal up or spontaneously combust! 8O

Taffy said:
secondly, i vaso my shaft and when it comes to vasoing shafts i'm the bloody expert right!

Um... T.M.I., (too much information!) :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:

Seriously though, thanks a bunch, loads of info for sure... Appreciated as always. :D

'Course if I get a wild hare I'll take it apart and the ***** will hit the fan in my house then... There'll be a lot of me standing around saying WTF now??? :lol:
 
Kzoo,

Here's my two cents worth...........

I had one heck of a time the first time I installed a water pump seal on my 04 550. The metal outside makes it really difficult. Wish they would have left that design alone, the old ones worked great for me. The shaft on my bike had a groove as well but don't worry about it, it will be fine.

Onward! It's good that you pulled the side cover so you can clean all the crap out of the area between the water pump seal and the oil seal for the shaft bearing in the side case.

I used the finest emery paper I could get my hands on, it doesn't even feel like an abrasive. Clean up the shaft with the paper making sure to go in the same plane as the shaft turns, not perpendicular to it.

Make sure the area where the seal goes is immaculately clean, put a very thin coat of three bond 1211 silicone on the case and the outside of the seal housing. This will prevent any leaks around the freaking metal housing.

I went a purchased a 25mm piece of aluminum round stock about 6 or 8 inches long and made sure that one end was perfectly flat. Use that end to drive the seal in. The aluminum is softer than the seal material and it wil help hold the seal, to keep it from fliping on you. I drove mine down flush with the case and let it set up for 24 hours. Make sure to back up the area of the case directly behind the seal with a piece of wood.

When you put the case back on make sure you put some electrical tape, or use the special tool that Husaberg sells to cover the circlip groove for the impeller. If you don't you will be sad. Taffy's suggestion of using vaseline sounds good, however, I just used a bit of silicone lubricant on mine. Taffy also has a good suggestion to use the Z pattern to kind of work the seal over the area of the circlip groove.

Now then, don't be surprised if the new seal leaks for awhile as the seal material is kind of hard and takes a while to seat in. Jimmy Lewis was posting here a while back with the same problem, we mentioned to let the seal break in and we haven't heard back from him so I guess it worked out.

Taffy is also right to not have your seal cold when you are trying to put the side cover back on.

One last thing........ Replace that little O ring on the shaft, it's cheap and will save you from the tree of woe.
 
Dale,

Thanks for the advice. My first seal lasted 134.5 hours, and 2800 miles...

I went ahead with the o-ring, I figured, "since I was in there already", so I have that covered. I'll find some three bond 1211, get a few more seals, some o-rings for good measure, some emery paper, a few beers :D, a chunk-o-wood, and some Aluminum stock.
 

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