Getting the Fe570 prep for next seasson. Have a couple questions.

LeDelmo · Jan 27, 2016

So, I want to get everything ready on my Berg for next season. And I have a few questions.

I got my valves checked last year because of the hard starts and noise I was getting. The valves were all perfect but they replaced some spring they said was the cause of the noise. However, the noise is still ongoing. I told them it sounded like the cam chain tensioner. And I still think it is.

So I am thinking about replacing it with a DJH tensioner. How does everyone feel about these? Are they worth the $80?

Also, talked too the KTM dealer about the hard shifts. They said it was the oil I was using. "Castrol Power RS 10w50" They told me to use Motorex instead and it would making the shift into first and finding neutral allot easier.

Finding neutral is still an issue. I have never had a bike so hard to find neutral. I bled the clutch with the ridiculous mineral oil crap... "Bought two bottles just in case

"

The bike is still hard to get going but I think I found the issue on that. Think my Shorai battery isnt doing the job anymore. My dash has been displaying RB. So I will try that. Otherwise, it could be a number of things.

Also, wanted to ask you guys something. I have the 70 degree aux tank. I wanted to know how well that thing would handle jumps? Went to a MX track and found my self babying it in worry the tank would break.

Its taking me allot longer to get used to the bike than I thought. The KX's feel completely different.

Last thing. My muffler cap keeps breaking loose. Every time I re-rivet it the Carbon fiber breaks. Any home solutions for this?

jmscrttndn · Jan 27, 2016

This is called, "********".

Motorex oil contains small gremlins that help push the gear lever into neutral whereas castrol has anti-matter preventing it from resting in neutral. Castrol oil is said to haunt your engine, so you should contact a priest to perform a Motorex-approved exorcism.

LeDelmo said:
Also, talked too the KTM dealer about the hard shifts. They said it was the oil I was using. "Castrol Power RS 10w50" They told me to use Motorex instead and it would making the shift into first and finding neutral allot easier.

jon andersson · Jan 27, 2016

Finding neutral is difficult for me too. My enduro has recluse so it not so bad but my tuned I have to stop to find it most of the time. But I see it as a potential good thing as it's less likely to end up there while driving.

And the engines do rattle. The question is if your is rattling too much. I can't understand what spring they could have changed out, and I don't think it's the oil.
Maybe check the cam chain to see if it's to worn (how many hours?). I have a DJH tensioner but I removed it. The KTM is doing it's thing just fine imho and is constantly adjusting itself. The DJH is stuck in one position so it might need manual adjustments as the chain gets more worn.

I wasted some money on a Shorai. I made a post about why I never will buy another again in this forum and linked to another forum where a person who knows what he is doing tested it and explained why it is bad.

HusaPower · Jan 28, 2016

I vote to the dirttricks instead of DJH.
When I put motorex first time to my 650 the shifting and finding neutral became really smooth. I think you should try some different oils and then you'll know. Only the price is the problem with motorex.
And maybe you should check the aliant batteries.

Knobbiethrower · Jan 28, 2016

I use Amsoil, no hard shifting, but finding neutral is always a challenge.

I use a DJH tensioner, with no issues in 4K miles, never needed to adjust after it was set.

I have the rear aux tank and have had no issues riding off-road , never motocrossed the bike though.

I've run an earth x battery with zero issues

tourist · Jan 28, 2016

FWIW I can tell the difference in the gearbox between Motul 5100 (blend), 7100 (synthetic), and 300V (fancy synthetic) in my DRZ. It's clearly less notchy with the expensive stuff.

TomTom · Jan 28, 2016

For Trails riding I used the Silkolene 10-50 oil, and now the Motul 300v for the ice abuse, never had a problem finding neutral. Not saying this to imply im better or anything, its just I find this 'dark hole problem' interesting as no one seems to know why.

If the clutch has the tiniest drag it will be difficult to find N, but here it seems that is ruled out no?
Just an idea; From ducati that I wrench a lot there has been problems with the steel discs. As they come new a few of them had one of the teeth slightly bent and this rendering the same problem, long shot I know, but easy enough to pull them and make sure all teeth are straight?

Palle · Jan 28, 2016

Finding neutral seem to be a common thing on the 70 degrees. I have the same problem. and i have drag with clutch and gear to. I was thinking of bleeding my clutch and see if i can make it slightly tighter. could it do any difference?

TomTom · Jan 30, 2016

Palle said:
Finding neutral seem to be a common thing on the 70 degrees. I have the same problem. and i have drag with clutch and gear to. I was thinking of bleeding my clutch and see if i can make it slightly tighter. could it do any difference?

Drag is bad here. Try put the bike over to the left on the floor and open the clutch engine cover, then pull the clutch lever while turning the pressure plate by hand and see what it looks/feels like. If a steel tooth is bent the pressure plate wont come out evenly like it should.

Other possibilities may be a too thick clutch pack or a too short push rod, but if oem parts are in there, no.
Unless you already did; Fill the clutch fluid from slave up to the master, NOT the traditional way master -> slave, and use mineral oil; Fork oil/baby oil/KTMs superexpensive oil, fork oil cheapest. You may use a syringe for this, but I find using a 1,5L soda bottle and drilling the cap to fit is just as good, keep it simple

Palle · Jan 30, 2016

Thnx tomtom, good advice. Il do this. But i know myself. So i might as well buy new clutch plates right away. Im an unlucky one. Allways end up changing more then planned.

TomTom · Jan 30, 2016

Without trying first...unlucky no...not trying hard enough yes

Do check a bit more prior to buy stuff.

Palle · Jan 30, 2016

Well. Removed top cap and looks low to me. Lets just say, i didnt see oil. Works good warm as for most ppl. But i put in an order for some blood and il be bleeding and replacing it this week. Any problems in case last owner had a different oil in it? I bought maguras own. But i dno whats in The system right now. ( just bought The bike)

LeDelmo · Jan 31, 2016

I think I will try to bleed the clutch again with a syringe this time. I hear the New KTM's hydraulic clutch uses break fluid instead of mineral oil. Wonder if its convertible. If that doesn't work than I will check the clutch plates.

Also, has anyone tried different weight oils before? The recommended 10-50 is terrible. So few offer 10-50 anymore. Almost as bad as 15-50.

Worried a 10-40 might be too thin and a 20-50 too thick. My Triumph takes 15-50. But I have used both 10-40 and 20-50 in it before. The 10-40 does make the bike have allot more sound coming from the gears. Where as the 20-50 is quite and actually makes shifting allot smother. But, The 20-50 makes the bike really hard to start up. Especially with the crappy battery they use in the Triumph. "Was thinking about modifying the battery tray to hold a bigger battery."

But, I an think a True full synthetic 20-50 might be perfect. Like Amsoil.

I actually only know of two oil manufacturers that actually make a true full synthetic motor oil. Mobil 1 and Amsoil. But, I don't know if its only true of the Mobil 1 for its Automotive oil and not the Motorcycle oil.

Castrol RS full synthetic I know for a fact isnt a true full synthetic. Only used it because I just happen to be given some 10-50.

If the battery doesn't fix the hard start than I think that could be a problem.

Also, not sure about the timing chain tensioner yet. Seems like some say stay with the stock one. Others a mechanically one. I just dont want that thing to loose tension when I am out riding longer distances. Its only happened twice so far and only when I ride the bike hard and it gets hot enough to kick the fan in. "Side note, What do I do to get the fan to kick in earlier again?"

Knobbiethrower · Jan 31, 2016

The 570 clutch master cylinder has mineral oil, the brembo units have brake fluid. I use light suspension fluid in my 570 clutch master cylinder with no issues.

I use Amsoil 10-40 synthetic motorcycle oil in transmission since new, with no issues.

jon andersson · Jan 31, 2016

I was recommended Motorex 10w-60 and it works fine. 200 h and tolerances within specs KTM accepts when they sell them new. One day I managed to forget to fill up after an oil change and I drove to the enduro track on the highway (~110 km/h) and used old gravel roads home. Realized next morning and filled up the engine and run it for some time and changed oil again. All good and when I had it apart no damage what so ever and all in spec. The small amount of oil in the pumps and the thickness of the 10W-60 probably saved the engine.

You can change the thermostat to one that kicks in at lower temperatures for your fan. If I remember right it's exactly the same as a BMW I think, you can find info if you search this forum.

Search

Search

Getting the Fe570 prep for next seasson. Have a couple questions.

LeDelmo

jmscrttndn

jon andersson

HusaPower

Knobbiethrower

tourist

TomTom

Palle

TomTom

Palle

TomTom

Palle

LeDelmo

Knobbiethrower

jon andersson

Similar threads

Register CTA

Recent Discussions