Fx600e starter issues
- Thread starter Michael Dyer
- Start date
I posted a while back about starter issues on a 1999 fx600e. First issue is the decomp mechanism on the cam. It wasn’t working at all. That has been dealt with now. The next issue is the starter clutch idler gear. It’s shot,so I will probably just go with kick start only for now. I am trying to locate a replacement for that gear but no luck so far. My question is does anyone know of a source for the gear or one that will work from another brand? We’re making a little progress with getting this bike ready to ride. Everything else seems to be in good shape. Any info or help is greatly appreciated. Another small problem became apparent during this process. The rubber on the intake manifold is in bad shape. I can find intakes online that will fit the bolt pattern and carburetor but they are round at the cylinder where it’s oval shaped. Question is will a round one work? If not could the original be sleeved?
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I use my iPad for most of these things but I have a picture of the gear on my phone. I will try to post those pics here if I can figure it out. Thanks for the interest.
I have sent a video of the gear to the email listed on the Taffmeister website. I hope it works.
Here is a photo of the damage, half of the faces have serious impact marks and it creates a lot of drag when installed
https://m.imgur.com/a/cXIVjZR
Since this bike had the manual decomp removed and the auto was flopping around I think the damage was cause by the wall of compression stopping the cranking repeatedly
https://m.imgur.com/a/cXIVjZR
Since this bike had the manual decomp removed and the auto was flopping around I think the damage was cause by the wall of compression stopping the cranking repeatedly
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Thanks heidenburg for posting the pics. How much would it cost. I’m assuming 250gbp is the cost but I don’t what that is.
Joined Jun 2004
412 Posts | 17+
australia
The sprags were bad on the old motor..
..metal testing etc to find out why....but it was the location and instant start leverage that was the problem...some bad decompression springs did not help. I have never had a problem maybe because I never start the bike cold with e start and rarely start it warm with e start...I only use it as a restart if it stops while I am riding and by preserving it this way the bike snaps alive in less than a blink....I have been using a left side kickstart since 1972 so easy for me.
..metal testing etc to find out why....but it was the location and instant start leverage that was the problem...some bad decompression springs did not help. I have never had a problem maybe because I never start the bike cold with e start and rarely start it warm with e start...I only use it as a restart if it stops while I am riding and by preserving it this way the bike snaps alive in less than a blink....I have been using a left side kickstart since 1972 so easy for me.
Joined Nov 2001
17K Posts | 774+
Ely, England
well you know what a USD is don't you!
Great Britian Pound (including our VAT in the EU which you don't pay. so 200gbp which is 250USD) about 250USD. this is the reduction gear in the photo above and not the gear of the original questioner. the gear he speaks of is part No.30 on page 43. H25015701 named as gearwheel starter (on balancer wheel).
Taffy
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Fx600 starter issues
Can you provide one of those gears 250 USD? Thanks to you and everyone else who responded with thoughts on this issue.
Can you provide one of those gears 250 USD? Thanks to you and everyone else who responded with thoughts on this issue.
I solved the estart issues on my 99 fx600. I traded it for a 2001 fe470. The 470 has minor issues, but I am in a better position to deal with that bike than the 600. When I bought the 600, I hadn’t had a bike for several years because of serious knee issues. Things have gone so well after total knee replacement, that I want to ride again. When I bought the 600, I wanted to bring it home and ride, instead I had a nice looking machine that needed some extensive tinkering. I enjoy maintenance tinkering and such like that, but at 71 years old, I want to ride as long as I still can. One never knows when that will end, better do it now. Any way, I’m glad I still have a Husaberg and I hope I can contribute to the forum in the future. I would like to thank everyone who pitched in to help me with the issues on the 600.
Hi ned37, you replied awhile back to my post about fx600 starter issues. You suggested adjusting the valves with the 1/6 turn method. Could you please explain that to me as I am unfamiliar with it. I traded that 600 for an 01 fx470e which seems to run and start well,but I thought maybe it’s a good idea to know that technique you mentioned. Thanks for your assistance.
Joined Dec 2004
2K Posts | 248+
back in cottonwood, az
it's very simple compared to most other bikes.
with the tank removed, pull the spark plug and the rocker covers (a short 5mm allen makes it easier on the front cover to clear the radiator).
remove the alternator cover, and using a 17mm wrench (don't use a ratchet), rotate the crank clockwise and watch the intake rockers go thru their dn/up and stop.
take something pliable (tie wrap?) and insert in spark plug hole. rotate crank c/w until it quits rising (slow down as it approaches top).
test rockers by moving with fingers to get a feel for clearance. I and E should just barely move. loosen the locknuts and turn screws out slightly, then one by one, turn in until it just rests on valve stem - run it back out a little and repeat. reference a hex point on the nut and back out the screw until the next hex point is on your reference.
hold the screw, and tighten the nut. test your work by moving with your fingers and repeat if you don't like the sound. check all nut tightness after adjustment.
(bikes that have a decomp cable connected to a lever at the front right of the cylinder will require you to ensure the lever is does not touch the rocker while you adjust the exhaust rockers).
with the tank removed, pull the spark plug and the rocker covers (a short 5mm allen makes it easier on the front cover to clear the radiator).
remove the alternator cover, and using a 17mm wrench (don't use a ratchet), rotate the crank clockwise and watch the intake rockers go thru their dn/up and stop.
take something pliable (tie wrap?) and insert in spark plug hole. rotate crank c/w until it quits rising (slow down as it approaches top).
test rockers by moving with fingers to get a feel for clearance. I and E should just barely move. loosen the locknuts and turn screws out slightly, then one by one, turn in until it just rests on valve stem - run it back out a little and repeat. reference a hex point on the nut and back out the screw until the next hex point is on your reference.
hold the screw, and tighten the nut. test your work by moving with your fingers and repeat if you don't like the sound. check all nut tightness after adjustment.
(bikes that have a decomp cable connected to a lever at the front right of the cylinder will require you to ensure the lever is does not touch the rocker while you adjust the exhaust rockers).
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