At the beginning of my membership here I had a 99 fx600e. I traded that bike for a 2001 fx470e. After much tinkering and carb rebuilding That bike is starting and running well. It is fun and easy to ride, however the rear shock seems to be very harsh. I ride sandy dirt roads and cow trails here on the Rez at a moderately brisk pace. No plans for racing or anything like that. My question is; are there any softer shock springs out there that will fit? I’m looking for a smoother ride in small to medium bumps. I haven’t tried to set the sag yet, but just from feel when I sit on the bike, I’m not getting the recommended 100 or so mm. I backed off the spring preload to almost nothing. I called Slavens racing but they didn’t seem to take me seriously as their charts only go back to 2004. I’m hoping someone here may have some suggestions. Thanks for any help at all.
Fx470 suspension
- Thread starter Michael Dyer
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Joined Nov 2001
17K Posts | 773+
Ely, England
the reason slavens didn't take you sriously is because you didn't step up to the plate with your sags. so how can you expect them to help you?
for my money your totally wrong.
the shock is 19 years old and the oil will be pisswater (would you like me to translate "pisswater"?)
the rear damping needs lots of fiddling but generally isn't oo bad.
my favourite trick when doing suspension is to ask people if they are now happy and then show them the stronger spring that was fitted.
Taffy
for my money your totally wrong.
the shock is 19 years old and the oil will be pisswater (would you like me to translate "pisswater"?)
the rear damping needs lots of fiddling but generally isn't oo bad.
my favourite trick when doing suspension is to ask people if they are now happy and then show them the stronger spring that was fitted.
Taffy
Joined Feb 2003
3K Posts | 384+
Escondido, Ca. USA
Dicks Racing has done a few members bikes in the 01-02 era with reported good results.
As far as you wanting a softer spring, go to the http://husaberg.org/service-manuals/21187-2001-2002-parts-manual.html and look at the rear shock.
Your 01 470 FXe came with a PDS7-260 76-95 N/mm
The FX's and FC's (Desert and Motocross versions) came with the stiffest springs.
You could drop down to the softer 2002 enduro spring a PDS6-260 which is softer @ only 71-90 Newton meters.
The 260 number is the length (in MM) of the spring.
PDS is Progressive Dampening System which refers more to the shock but the springs are progressive too hence 70-90.
There are eight springs listed and 4 are optional.
Study the different springs. The *********** springs are commonly referred to by there first four characters, PDS3, PDS4 etc.
Something to ponder, only the supermoto versions came with a straight wound 250mm 84 N/mm spring which does not have the PDS designation.
I bet you could find a complete used shock with the spring you want and have a spare for parts. Have the better of the two rebuilt and perhaps revalved if they have the specs and experiment with different springs.
The same shocks were used on KTM,s of that era too, although the internal valving may be different the springs would be the same (a PDS3 is a PDS3).
As far as you wanting a softer spring, go to the http://husaberg.org/service-manuals/21187-2001-2002-parts-manual.html and look at the rear shock.
Your 01 470 FXe came with a PDS7-260 76-95 N/mm
The FX's and FC's (Desert and Motocross versions) came with the stiffest springs.
You could drop down to the softer 2002 enduro spring a PDS6-260 which is softer @ only 71-90 Newton meters.
The 260 number is the length (in MM) of the spring.
PDS is Progressive Dampening System which refers more to the shock but the springs are progressive too hence 70-90.
There are eight springs listed and 4 are optional.
Study the different springs. The *********** springs are commonly referred to by there first four characters, PDS3, PDS4 etc.
Something to ponder, only the supermoto versions came with a straight wound 250mm 84 N/mm spring which does not have the PDS designation.
I bet you could find a complete used shock with the spring you want and have a spare for parts. Have the better of the two rebuilt and perhaps revalved if they have the specs and experiment with different springs.
The same shocks were used on KTM,s of that era too, although the internal valving may be different the springs would be the same (a PDS3 is a PDS3).
Fx 470 shock spring
Thanks Husabutt for the enlightening reply. Those numbers you supplied I think will make this search much easier. I like the idea of finding another one on eBay. I have tinkered a lot with this bike to get starting issues and oil leaks fixed. Now it’s reliable and rideable, hence the suspension work. Thanks again for your reply.
Thanks Husabutt for the enlightening reply. Those numbers you supplied I think will make this search much easier. I like the idea of finding another one on eBay. I have tinkered a lot with this bike to get starting issues and oil leaks fixed. Now it’s reliable and rideable, hence the suspension work. Thanks again for your reply.
Slaven’s didn’t ask if I set the sag or not. There is no more adjustment left on the shock to get any more sag out of it. At this point I know it’s not quite enough but I can’t get any more.
Joined Nov 2001
17K Posts | 773+
Ely, England
they don't make those PDS- springs anymore. there are no more 260mm springs. they are now only available as 250mm.
the thing is mate, I see this all the time, you're offended that someone has told you the truth of it. Your bike was designed as either an FC which is Motocross or as an FX which is cross-country. neither of which are a plush ride are they?
hey?
what do you mean by there's no more adjustment left in the rear shock? you mean it falls outside the 25-35mm? or outside the 105mm sag goals?
how much do you weigh anyway?
I've raced an FX470 for
1 on
1 off
1 on,
15 minutes =argue with my American partner who said the one hour did was too rough and he was tired.
4 hours 45 minutes non-stop on a boiling hot day in June.
I think I'm in a position to call the 470 suspension - ****.
the forks are the worst of it.
If you have a 2001 you'll have a black domed knob to adjust your compression damping. if you have a 2002 you'll have a flat slotted screw inside a 17mm nut?
if you have the 2002 plus you should ALWAYS set the HSCD on the 17mm nut to the minimum. it takes 3 and 3/4 turns to turn out if I recall and you want it out, out, out.
then the screw can be half way.
when checking the rebound the seat should be compressable with both hands around the seat screw area (or just behind) and as you let go it should chase your hand and keep up with your hand but not push your hand - "only just keep up" as we'd say.
Taffy
the thing is mate, I see this all the time, you're offended that someone has told you the truth of it. Your bike was designed as either an FC which is Motocross or as an FX which is cross-country. neither of which are a plush ride are they?
hey?
what do you mean by there's no more adjustment left in the rear shock? you mean it falls outside the 25-35mm? or outside the 105mm sag goals?
how much do you weigh anyway?
I've raced an FX470 for
1 on
1 off
1 on,
15 minutes =argue with my American partner who said the one hour did was too rough and he was tired.
4 hours 45 minutes non-stop on a boiling hot day in June.
I think I'm in a position to call the 470 suspension - ****.
the forks are the worst of it.
If you have a 2001 you'll have a black domed knob to adjust your compression damping. if you have a 2002 you'll have a flat slotted screw inside a 17mm nut?
if you have the 2002 plus you should ALWAYS set the HSCD on the 17mm nut to the minimum. it takes 3 and 3/4 turns to turn out if I recall and you want it out, out, out.
then the screw can be half way.
when checking the rebound the seat should be compressable with both hands around the seat screw area (or just behind) and as you let go it should chase your hand and keep up with your hand but not push your hand - "only just keep up" as we'd say.
Taffy
Last edited:
Joined Nov 2012
2K Posts | 821+
Iceland
I found the Racetech Suspension Bible rather enlightening, as well as the Shim Restackor simulation software: https://www.shimrestackor.com
Fx470 rear suspension
I wanted to update my quest for softer rear suspension on this bike. I followed Husabutt’s advice and shopped on eBay. I found a complete shock for $75 which I got. Then I found a pds66-86/260 spring for $50. The new shock seems to be in good shape and works as it should. The new shock and spring give rear end a very nice feel, not mushy but smoother. I have the compression set all the way out and the rebound at 17 clicks out. I like it. I took the spring off the old shock to check the movement of the rod. In spite of much straining and grunting, I couldn’t get that rod to compress more than about an inch. Maybe that explains some of that harsh feel. With the new shock, I was able to set the sag at 100mm. My next concern is the forks. On any bumps bigger than 4or5” they seem to just stop compressing a third of the way through the travel giving an abrupt jar at that point. I am using 5w bellray oil at 110mm set the Slavens method. The only things I have done to the forks are new seals and oil. Does anyone know what spring rate these forks came with? Or would this be something different than spring rates causing this? Thanks again Husabutt for your initial advice. As always, I am grateful for all input.
I wanted to update my quest for softer rear suspension on this bike. I followed Husabutt’s advice and shopped on eBay. I found a complete shock for $75 which I got. Then I found a pds66-86/260 spring for $50. The new shock seems to be in good shape and works as it should. The new shock and spring give rear end a very nice feel, not mushy but smoother. I have the compression set all the way out and the rebound at 17 clicks out. I like it. I took the spring off the old shock to check the movement of the rod. In spite of much straining and grunting, I couldn’t get that rod to compress more than about an inch. Maybe that explains some of that harsh feel. With the new shock, I was able to set the sag at 100mm. My next concern is the forks. On any bumps bigger than 4or5” they seem to just stop compressing a third of the way through the travel giving an abrupt jar at that point. I am using 5w bellray oil at 110mm set the Slavens method. The only things I have done to the forks are new seals and oil. Does anyone know what spring rate these forks came with? Or would this be something different than spring rates causing this? Thanks again Husabutt for your initial advice. As always, I am grateful for all input.
Joined Feb 2003
3K Posts | 384+
Escondido, Ca. USA
The 2001 and 2002 forks were grim at best. These WP 4860 forks were improved every year or so. You could spend a good bit of change having them revalved and resprung.
I would try to find a set of used 04-08 forks as out of the box they are very good. I am pretty happy with my stock 05 units.
In 2003 the front axle size went up from 22mm to 26mm.
If you could find a complete unbolt front end (Clamps, forks, wheels, caliper, bars etc.) this may be an economical way to go. I just don't know if its worth spending much time and effort on those 01 forks.
KTM supposedly makes a kit to take a 22mm axle to 26mm but you would still need to buy an axle.
Would be great to find an unbolt front end off of an 08 model, which is the last year for this frame type ( 2000 - 2008 ). The FE models are going to have the softest springs.
I would try to find a set of used 04-08 forks as out of the box they are very good. I am pretty happy with my stock 05 units.
In 2003 the front axle size went up from 22mm to 26mm.
If you could find a complete unbolt front end (Clamps, forks, wheels, caliper, bars etc.) this may be an economical way to go. I just don't know if its worth spending much time and effort on those 01 forks.
KTM supposedly makes a kit to take a 22mm axle to 26mm but you would still need to buy an axle.
Would be great to find an unbolt front end off of an 08 model, which is the last year for this frame type ( 2000 - 2008 ). The FE models are going to have the softest springs.
Last edited:
Joined Feb 2003
3K Posts | 384+
Escondido, Ca. USA
Here is an axle REDUCTION kit from 26mm to 20mm but I don't think it will work with a Husaberg unless you are using the 04-08 Husaberg forks with a KTM wheel that has a 20mm axle.
At least https://www.karlstrommotor.se/sv/articles/2.1772.883505/ktm-axle-reduction-kit-front-03 there seems to be some options that can be pieced together.
At least https://www.karlstrommotor.se/sv/articles/2.1772.883505/ktm-axle-reduction-kit-front-03 there seems to be some options that can be pieced together.
Joined Nov 2001
17K Posts | 773+
Ely, England
the problem with the rear was accepted to be that the second piston was too open so all HSCD was weak at best. that's why the 17mm nut should be in all the way.
I kind of agree with Eric, I don't think they got that much better, say from awful to just plain ****.
TBH, this is the first time in 20 years of saying they are crap I have had anyone agree here on UHE. to improve something, first you have to agree there's a problem! right?
Michael, I've closed my workshops but I'll tell you what, if you are prepared to strip your forks, send two small items off to me here in England, I'll revalve your forks for you and ask you to buy 2-3 reasonably cheap items. you put the forks back together afterwards.
there is so much wrong with the 2001 forks you would have to be lied to by a sussie shop.
let us say you klived in a $400,000 house and I could see $500,000 worth of work. I would have to say to you it was $399,999 worth of work and then come to you all surprised and beg the other $100,001 because "you found more".
That's why, with the old stuff, they cost as much as the job will take before you are put off sending them in to be done. BUT, and it's a big but, they know that they now can only do half as much work to them.
just for reference, I raced a FE400e 2002 from 2003-2013 and stripped and tuned my forks 37 times. everytime I stripped them to change something. I could say to you 45-50 times but what I often did was change the midvalve (let's just say it is in the middle of the fork) and would test it, record the result and then change the basevalve by laying the bike "feet up" to get at it (the one underneath - keep the oil in). so that was another 8, 10-15 tests.
it took 20 years to get people to say these forks were ****.....I never thought I'd see the day..................
Taffy
I kind of agree with Eric, I don't think they got that much better, say from awful to just plain ****.
TBH, this is the first time in 20 years of saying they are crap I have had anyone agree here on UHE. to improve something, first you have to agree there's a problem! right?
Michael, I've closed my workshops but I'll tell you what, if you are prepared to strip your forks, send two small items off to me here in England, I'll revalve your forks for you and ask you to buy 2-3 reasonably cheap items. you put the forks back together afterwards.
there is so much wrong with the 2001 forks you would have to be lied to by a sussie shop.
let us say you klived in a $400,000 house and I could see $500,000 worth of work. I would have to say to you it was $399,999 worth of work and then come to you all surprised and beg the other $100,001 because "you found more".
That's why, with the old stuff, they cost as much as the job will take before you are put off sending them in to be done. BUT, and it's a big but, they know that they now can only do half as much work to them.
just for reference, I raced a FE400e 2002 from 2003-2013 and stripped and tuned my forks 37 times. everytime I stripped them to change something. I could say to you 45-50 times but what I often did was change the midvalve (let's just say it is in the middle of the fork) and would test it, record the result and then change the basevalve by laying the bike "feet up" to get at it (the one underneath - keep the oil in). so that was another 8, 10-15 tests.
it took 20 years to get people to say these forks were ****.....I never thought I'd see the day..................
Taffy
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