Fuel Vent / Drain Line - 2011 FE 570S

BlueDevil · Feb 19, 2012

Question to the world at large:

On my bike there is a vent tube hanging down just under the swing arm near the bottom shock mount. Or so I thought. When I look closer I notice it's actually plugged off there. There is a black plug in the end of that line. I removed it today and a little gas came out.

Can someone explain this to me? What is that for if it's not a vent? The reason I'm looking into this is because when I pulled my smog canister off I capped off the vent line that used to go to that canister and now I'm building pressure in the tank. I want to fix this and thought the easiest way would be to uncork that vent tube. Is there any reason NOT to take that plug off? Will it suck water, for example, on a river crossing?

Thanks for the advice...

J

Ruger · Feb 20, 2012

Bet you didn't know that your bike has emission controls all over it. The plugged hose you have noticed is part of the evaporative emission control system. The evap canister is under the left rear fender and is controlled by the bike's electronics. Hoses run from it to the fuel cap, to the valve on the right side of the valve cover, and also down under the bike to the plug you've noticed. (I lost that plug in the first 20 miles of riding.)

All of that smog crap can be removed by the owner. It's easy to remove the evap canister, as you leave several hoses in place in case you ever need to put it back on. But the valve on the side of the engine takes some doing, and in the process you may come to the conclusion that the Husaberg was designed to be manufactured in the fadtory and not to be worked on after the fact. It may challenge you. It did me. But it can be done and it'll help return your bike to the level of performance that the engine designers intended.

BlueDevil · Feb 20, 2012

Ruger said:
Bet you didn't know that your bike has emission controls all over it. The plugged hose you have noticed is part of the evaporative emission control system. The evap canister is under the left rear fender and is controlled by the bike's electronics. Hoses run from it to the fuel cap, to the valve on the right side of the valve cover, and also down under the bike to the plug you've noticed. (I lost that plug in the first 20 miles of riding.)

All of that smog crap can be removed by the owner. It's easy to remove the evap canister, as you leave several hoses in place in case you ever need to put it back on. But the valve on the side of the engine takes some doing, and in the process you may come to the conclusion that the Husaberg was designed to be manufactured in the fadtory and not to be worked on after the fact. It may challenge you. It did me. But it can be done and it'll help return your bike to the level of performance that the engine designers intended.

Yes, I'm finding this but slowly, not all at once. I first removed the breather contraption on the right side of the head because my stock bike with the Comp Mapping was backfiring on decel really bad. Removed that breather and backfiring stopped. Then later I went to the 70 degree racing tank. Upon install I realized that the evap canister you noted had to go. My mistake (or so I suspect) was capping one of the hoses, rather than leaving it free flowing. I *think* this caused my pressure issue (building pressure in the tank system). I was thinking that if I could safely remove that black plug I would open up the system to air again and issue would be solved.

So, Ruger, did you replace that plug or are you good leaving that lower line open? Have you ever crossed deep water with that line open? My only real concern is 1, gas pouring out and 2, water getting sucked in.

Thanks!!

Ruger · Feb 20, 2012

I removed the canister altogether, wrapped self-sealing rubberized tape around the remaining electrical connector inder the left rear fender, capped the hose that runs forward, and pulled the hose that runs downward to that plug. I disconnected the hose that runs to the fuel cap and replaced it with a blue anodized valve I bought at Cycle Gear. Couldn't remove the hoses that ran to the valve at the head, and plugged them. Have had absolutely no subsequent problems. With the addition of an FMF Factory 4.1 muffler, I believe that the bike runs as the designers intended.

BlueDevil · Feb 20, 2012

Ruger said:
I removed the canister altogether, wrapped self-sealing rubberized tape around the remaining electrical connector inder the left rear fender, capped the hose that runs forward, and pulled the hose that runs downward to that plug. I disconnected the hose that runs to the fuel cap and replaced it with a blue anodized valve I bought at Cycle Gear. Couldn't remove the hoses that ran to the valve at the head, and plugged them. Have had absolutely no subsequent problems. With the addition of an FMF Factory 4.1 muffler, I believe that the bike runs as the designers intended.

Thanks Ruger...that's basically what I did except for instead of pulling the lower line, I just folded it over and zip tied it. I think this is where I closed the circuit and why I'm building pressure in the tank. I hope that I can just pull the cap off the lower vent tube and be done with it. I'm going to run a small plastic catch bottle for a test to see if I get gas flowing out of that tube, if not, I'll leave it.

Ruger · Feb 20, 2012

BD, if you''ve pulled the canister and are running a separate fuel cap hose, what is that hose connected to? Should be nothing.

Search

Search

Fuel Vent / Drain Line - 2011 FE 570S

BlueDevil

Ruger

BlueDevil

Ruger

BlueDevil

Ruger

Similar threads

Register CTA

Recent Discussions