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Fuel screw debacle

Joined Sep 2005
494 Posts | 0+
Michigan
I've been fighting a strange issue with an FCR39 that I've been attempting to fit to my '03 FE400. Well, after several attempts I'd all but given up for a while. The only thing I hadn't given a go was putting in an OEM fuel screw. Well, I had an OEM fuel screw in my container of jets-n-stuff. I installed it and all is well. So I had a look under a magnifier at the metering portion of each and the after market appears to be a bit thicker, so much so that some of the aluminum was scuffed from the FS orifice up near the pilot passage. :?
 
kzoo said:
I've been fighting a strange issue with an FCR39 that I've been attempting to fit to my '03 FE400. Well, after several attempts I'd all but given up for a while. The only thing I hadn't given a go was putting in an OEM fuel screw. Well, I had an OEM fuel screw in my container of jets-n-stuff. I installed it and all is well. So I had a look under a magnifier at the metering portion of each and the after market appears to be a bit thicker, so much so that some of the aluminum was scuffed from the FS orifice up near the pilot passage. :?


There you go Kzoo, that's pattern crap for ya.
So all is Ok now with the original?, I never new you could get pattern parts for the FCR.

Regards

Sparks.
 
kzoo said:
I've been fighting a strange issue with an FCR39 that I've been attempting to fit to my '03 FE400. Well, after several attempts I'd all but given up for a while. The only thing I hadn't given a go was putting in an OEM fuel screw. Well, I had an OEM fuel screw in my container of jets-n-stuff. I installed it and all is well. So I had a look under a magnifier at the metering portion of each and the after market appears to be a bit thicker, so much so that some of the aluminum was scuffed from the FS orifice up near the pilot passage. :?

so where did you get this mickey mouse article?

we'll send the boys around tomorrow!

can you put a vernier/micrometer on the ify screw and we'll get an original as well. get that in the doc....

regards

Taffy
 
DaleEO said:
What brand is it so we can put out the word.......

I don't want to bag on the company so I'll give their initials - M.S.R. :twisted:

Here is a photo of the taper of the after market. Notice the anodizing is scraped away and some of the material has collected at the base of the metering needle. I don't think it's a function of over tightening as the material begins to be affected mid way down the metering needle.

After market needle

Here is a photo of the after market and OEM side by side. Notice the taper of the two is different and the diameter of the OEM is smaller than the after market.

After market left / OEM right

On the flip side, I'm VERY happy with things as they stand. I just went for a 30 minute ride (45 degrees F in May, you gotta love Michigan) and the bike ran very well.


Thanks,

Jason
 
that's worth at least a horse's head and two fishes for chrissakes!

you have a duty to let them know kzoo especially as you can be a complete yellow spine and e-mail them using your sisters address?

don't worry you'll only have matt damon around in a bit of a trance.... should be an even fight methinks!

regards

Taffy
 
looks like a zip-ty needle. looks like i'm gonna havta go pull mine and compare it to the stocker. i got mine from a friend who used it on a yammy (426?).
 
ok, yanked mine and took pics, measured. mine are identical at a taper of 0.033 to 0.026" and a taper length of .082".
i know there is more than one model screw, maybe they gave you the wrong one.
in the pic, one is the zip-ty, one is the mk1, and one is the mk2.
 

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ned37 said:
looks like a zip-ty needle. looks like i'm gonna havta go pull mine and compare it to the stocker. i got mine from a friend who used it on a yammy (426?).

M.S.R. = Malcom Smith Racing Tha'ts the brand anyway, just bought it from the locale bike place.

I'm sure that most manufacturers get them from the same place. When I get a minute I'll get some measurements off of the red one. The OEM is in the bike and I'll not have time to pull it and mess with it for a while.

The other thing is, the literature states it's for an FCR carby. Does not specify FCR, or FCR-MX.
 
i looked up the difference in the two that zipty offers and according to the info, i should have one type for my mk1 carb (fms2) and the other for the mk2 (fms1). i have the fms1 in both of them (had to modify it for the mk1 carb) and the tips are identical. the difference is the length of the body where it comes out of the bowl. i think you got a lemon :cursin:
if you look closely at yours, it looks like they never machined the tip, just skipped that step and went straight to the anodizing.
like taffy said:
that's worth at least a horse's head and two fishes for chrissakes!
 
ned37 said:
i looked up the difference in the two that zipty offers and according to the info, i should have one type for my mk1 carb (fms2) and the other for the mk2 (fms1). i have the fms1 in both of them and the tips are identical. the difference is somewhere in the body where it clears the bowl. i think you got a lemon :cursin:
if you look closely at yours, it looks like they never machined the tip, just skipped that step and went straight to the anodizing.
like taffy said:
that's worth at least a horse's head and two fishes for chrissakes!

Me thinks me got a lemon too. Yeah, I just checked the MSR website and they list one for the "FCR"... The part number denotes the color of the unit. A missing $7.00 piece of brass (CDI Jet) drove me batty with the Dellorto, and a $24.00 poorly manufactured piece of aluminum drove be batty with the Keihin. 8O
 
actually the carb bit is the best part of the doc in my book?

i'm amazed that the collective here continue to learn so much.

regards

Taffy
 

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