fuel pump, TPS or what???

It sounds enough like a fuel pump & system issue that that's the first place I would start. The tank has to come off to get to the fuel pump. See the link below for Husaberg 70° manuals. There is a 2009 450/570 repair manual in the folder but that shouldn't be an issue for the info you're after.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B_X2MDkeGC0hRW1aYm9qX0o4MWM

My guess is fuel pump, as dodgy fuel pumps where apparently on the pre-Oct 2011 model 70* bergs. Apparently good pumps on 70* bikes made after that date. Somebody mentioned that there's supposedly a thread around, I think somewhere on Unofficial Husaberg about identifying if you have the original crap pump or it has been replaced. I've got a 2010 FE450 and a local shop replaced mine last year at the same time I was having some other work done. Hope this helps.

Bad pump has a black cap, good replacement factory pump has a brown cap:

What you need to do first before anything is all the service items. Its hard for people to advise whats the issue if you havent plus it shows respect to those that you seek help.

Cheers.

What fuel filters do you have, and what condition are they in?

I believe stock setup is filter in tank pre-pump, then filter in injector.

The filter in the injector is, well, a bad design. The little filter will always tend to clog or block, and is also hard to get at and clean.

The suggested solution is to put an inline quick-disconnect filter (I got a Golan Super Mini: 10 Micron, KTM & Billet Fuel Filters in California | Golan Products) and completely remove the small gray or black filter in the injector.

(I'm repeating info I got from Jon Andersson on here! - Thanks! - There are a few useful posts on this.)

Have a FE390 - 2010. Mine started to do the same thing last summer - ran fine when cold, but started to stall/flameout at technical/low rpm speeds and idle poorly when warmed up.

The first and easiest thing to check is the plug and plug cap as the 70 degrees are hard on them. Check the resistance on the plug cap. It should be 5K ohms. Mine was infinite. I have replaced it. As engines warm, the plug cap (or wire from the coil) will increase resistance markedly. This will cause the misfire and stall. It's a classic. Its the easiest and first thing you should check.

The second is adjust the TPS to .61v. mine was low - .57v

Third - Are your valves adjusted - too large a gap -particularly on the exhaust valves) will cause this (apart from not being good for the valve stems)?

I pulled my fuel pump, but could find no evidence of clogging or the "white stuff" that people have reported on a failing pump. Don't know if it was replaced before I bought it.

I will let you know if this fixes the issue when I have the time to ride it again! Good luck. Get back if you find a solution. Cheers BMR

It is my feeling that the heat management issues these bikes have cause persistent cavitation at the fuel pump inlet. Over time this damages the impeller which in turn causes fuel pressure/supply issues and a lean condition. The lean condition causes elevated EGTs which then dumps even more heat into the fuel tank compounding on the issue.

The CA Cycleworks primary improvements over OEM are to the inlet and impeller. This would fit with the above theory. The in tank Mahle filter also ends up turning black within hours of use. I suspect this is material being knocked off internal pump components by cavitation.

Do everything you can to keep heat out of the fuel supply and make sure there is not an underlying issue causing the bike to run lean.

Some 2011 had that small inline filter retrofitted. Easy to check, easy to change or remove and might be the culprit..

Just checking

So I have read through the forum a bit, obviously the pumps are an issue with the 09-11 Bergs.
Looks like mine is doing the same as above. I am not sure what ended up being the issue though reading this thread. I suppose I am hoping for confirmation before I take the dive and replace the pump.

To clarify, my bike runs fine when cold, runs fine on the highway, plenty of power. Starts to kick, miss and carry on and stall while in town or idling warm. After stalling it will fire straight back up, give it a minute and it starts farting again. Only seems to stall and miss when off the throttle or on initial throttle and a little load. Must definitely be heat related because as soon as I get back to 100 klicks on the highway (plenty of air) it comes good.

I have had similar issues in the past on my ktms when it has been the plug cap, but they have kept failing even out on the open road.

So am I up for a pump?

I would try replacing the pump, yes. Given that they can be had at acceptable prices, the worst outcome is that you have a diagnostic item crossed out and a spare pump on the shelf. But the description is similar to cases where pump replacement has fixed things

I'm in the same boat and struggling with what to replace next. A brief history:
- 2010 FE570 purchased new in spring 2011. Ran great first year.
- 2012 after constant stalling and occasionally having to get pulled out of the woods, I replace the stock pump with CA Cycleworks. Also replaced tank filter. Ran perfect for maybe one year. Also installed Shorai battery for more cranking fun.
- 2013 problem came back but not quite as bad, re-start in 30 seconds of waiting versus 30 minutes (fun when the mosquitoes are in full force).
- 2014 added Zip-ty 10 micron filter in fuel line and sent injector off for professional cleaning. No improvement. Also adjusted TPS to 0.64 which made a huge improvement in cold starting, but not operation.
- 2015 went through every wire connection, cleaned and made sure connection was good and nothing grounding. Adjusted seemed to make an improvement, but only temporarily, then no difference.
- 2018 replaced ignition coil, spark plug cap and of course spark plug. No improvement.
- Two weeks ago riding with my son on some very easy stuff at low speed and cool weather, it died twice in 24 miles. Strange thing this time was the trip reset each time, indicating a power interruption.
- This Sunday raced my first enduro. Ran great until mile 14.8 then it died for maybe 15 seconds. Again at 15.3 miles, then 16.3, then 17.3, then not until around 21 miles. This repeated every 1-3 miles (tight woods, 2nd sometimes 3rd gear, maybe 65 degrees F). Finally at around 30 miles when it died it would not restart for maybe 5 minutes. After four of those I decided to go back to camp and not finish the last 12 miles of the race. BTW the trip never reset, so WTF?

In my head, if it's not the pump (again), is the power to the pump or the injector being compromised? Or is it loss of spark (replaced all those components already)?

If anyone finds a solution, PLEASE post up!

TIA
Brian

BRod see if your fuel cap is working good if you have any doubt remove the bearing. You ever know.

Well I fixed mine. Incredibly embarrassing. I undertook several tests including testing my fuel pressure hot and cold, plug cap resistance hot and cold, valve clearances ect.
Turned out to be a hair line crack in the ceramic of the spark plug.
I am happy I didn't go spending to much money on injectors and fuel pumps ect.
This may or may not help others. I just thought I should post it up in case someone had similar symptoms.
(Remember mine started straight away after stalling)

Brod, Have you checked the valve clearances? Yours sounds more like that or fuel vaporisation in the fact that it won't start back up straight away, or air lock as mentioned with checking the cap above.

I would check your fuel pressure hot and cold if possible before you go for a pump.

Dw1 said:

Brod, Have you checked the valve clearances? Yours sounds more like that or fuel vaporisation in the fact that it won't start back up straight away, or air lock as mentioned with checking the cap above.

I would check your fuel pressure hot and cold if possible before you go for a pump.

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I checked my valve clearances a few months ago and they're all in spec. Fuel vent is working fine too. I replaced the pump yesterday with a new CA Cycleworks (under warranty) pump. Calling for rain today so no riding but hopefully will get a chance to thoroughly test next weekend. Will post results.

Put 51 miles on the Berg this weekend and NO engine stalls. It would appear replacing the fuel pump (2nd time) did it! If something changes I'll post up. Thanks for all the tips and help from the fine folks on this forum.

I have a 2010 FE570. I just recently started experiencing issue. Sometimes hard starting, consistently bog/stall when opening throttle after starting. This is what I have done so far:
Replaced fuel pump (like for like: CA Cycleworks pump)
Replaced fuel filters
Replaced injector
Measured, but still replaced TPS (TPS reading .610 @ idle)
Replaced spark plug
Replaced battery
Measured fuel pressure (reading 50 psi: acceptible range=48..54)

I can open the fast idle to get it started, but after warming up, it still stalls when rolling on the throttle. On the road/trail, it will bog out while under power when opening up throttle. Returning to idle it will continue to run and will mostly continue to run with small partial throttle.

I need some ideas to move forward with before finding a mechanic.

TomTom said:

Faulty injector effed mine up. Had injector flowed at a tuning centre, came back ok. Still didnt trust the results and bought a new injector --> worked since!
It was me getting nuts or fork out €180, opted for the latter

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Thanks, I replaced that one already with no change. At least now I have a spare that I'm going to clean soon just in case.