Fuel Pump Change

I'm original owner 2011 FE570S, 3300 mi, 178 hours on original pump. Bike was built with the "corrected" injection pump.

Came back from successful Colorado trip, changed oil, etc., washed bike, started it till warm and put it away. Getting ready to go back to Colorado, pushed the button today just to check it out, will not start. Will run with gas manually poured into throttle body, so now I am chasing down fuel delivery.
Already been down the path of the wiring harness, no issues visible.

My question - I have a new OEM pump from Cycle Buy that I bought back in '11 as insurance and I am about to install it. Is there anything I need to know about this install that isn't obvious? I can see the parts diagram, but not sure how all of the innards come out to change the pump? Any warnings or suggestions?

Thank you in advance!

jon andersson said:

Take care so you dont ruin the plastics around the screw holes. Nothing extra weak but if you get a leak there it is almost hopeless to fix. Happened to me when I forgot the alu spacer that has the hook for the air filter rod/fastener. The then to long screws punched through the plastic and I had to buy a new tank as I couldnt fix the leak.
So avoid stupid mistakes and insert the screws with some care.

You have to remove both the pump and the pressure regulator. Then you can see what way to pull the internal hoses to reach the connections on the hoses. There is a special tool from ktm to open them up, but a small flat screwdriver can be used instead. You are to push in the screwdriver in the slots to open up the connection. All 4 are to be pressed at once but with a little pull tension you can do one at a time.

Click to expand...

I might have jumped the gun by posting what I did. After I turned off the radio and fan and had a quiet garage, I can hear the fuel pump firing up and then shutting off like it always has. This tells me it is less likely the culprit. Before I tear into the tank and go after the pump with so few hours on the meter, I think maybe I should look more to the injection, don't you agree?

I made sure the 10 micron CanAm filter is easy to blow through so it's not clogged for sure. However, the quick disconnect would not allow me to blow though it, so I guess it's a closed connector unless the male on the injector side is plugged in?

I'll go there in the morning. Think I recall seeing that a 9 volt battery can be used to make sure the injector will cycle and that I can blow it out in reverse of the direction of injection while I am at it. If the pump is not being told to pump continuously, then that suggests something in the injector circuit is the culprit, correct?

Guys - thank you all for the input! So that I don't do what I dislike seeing others do, I am going to share what I found so the thread isn't left hanging.

I opened up the wiring harness as I did once before and did happen to find three wires that the harness clamp on the subframe had rubbed the insullation off of. By that point I had pressure washed the exposed area and dried it off with compressed air to ready it for reassembly. I doubt water grounding was the culprit here, but found it so I fixed it.

Tested the injector and it was firing and cleaned it using compressed air in reverse of the injection flow. I think the culprit here was the plug on the injector. The connector clip safety was not really doing it's job and the female connector was able to "lift" itself off the injector so I used safety wire and it's going nowhere now.

After doing those two things, the bike fires up and has several times now over the last two days.

Again, thank you all! I was sweating it because of my upcoming trip. Although this is my back up bike, this is my forever bike. She'll always be mine!