I have noticed on more than one occasion hearing liquid percolating in my bike when I stop after a tight slow section. I am not dripping coolant out the overflow hose and have not needed to add any either. I removed the gas cap and really dont see the gas boiling so not sure whats up BUt dont want to DNF any races in my soon to be here season of racing HS's. I removed the plastic pea from the cap,am running a straight thru fmf powercore,Put engine Ice in the cooling system and also believe am runnig the richer fuel mapping that comes stock on my FX. I guess I could ceramic coat the header and mid-pipe. Is there better thermal barrier coating than others or are they all the same? I see them in Grey, Black and Chrome. I guess our midpipes run as hot as 1000 degrees and was told coatings could reduce outside temps almost in half, is this true?
I have just bought a CV4 fuel tank liner heat barrier that uses velcro to stick to the underside of the tank areas. Havmt put it on yet but others here have.
Fizz
Fizz
I have found the DEI titanium header wrap to work really good at keeping the radiated heat down on the mid pipe.
You can brush up against it after the bike has been running and you won't burn your pants, gloves etc. The TI wrap is really easy to install compared to the older stuff.
DEI also makes a stick on gold type of heat shield that some on this site have installed as well. I will be putting that on next, as it is thin but has the air pockets to create an insulation barrier.
I have one of the CV 4 blankets but have not put in on yet. It seems like a good product that would definitely create a good air gap.
To your point, Jet Hot, and another both make good coatings. They are the only ones that coat the pipe inside and out, which is necessary for a coating to work it's best. However, it has been my experience with ceramic coatings that eventually the pipe will heat soak enough to get hot enough on the outside to melt your pants.
Dale
You can brush up against it after the bike has been running and you won't burn your pants, gloves etc. The TI wrap is really easy to install compared to the older stuff.
DEI also makes a stick on gold type of heat shield that some on this site have installed as well. I will be putting that on next, as it is thin but has the air pockets to create an insulation barrier.
I have one of the CV 4 blankets but have not put in on yet. It seems like a good product that would definitely create a good air gap.
To your point, Jet Hot, and another both make good coatings. They are the only ones that coat the pipe inside and out, which is necessary for a coating to work it's best. However, it has been my experience with ceramic coatings that eventually the pipe will heat soak enough to get hot enough on the outside to melt your pants.
Dale
I took the bike apart to remove the exhaust to get it coated with ceramakrome and also took this time to check valve clearence(@11 hrs)the intake and exhaust measured right in the middle of spec so all is well. I do not care for the shroud screws going right into the plastic body of the tank, seems they will be spinning freely soon enough,should be built with inserts in the tank. Also the center bolts in the subframe rails just spin around not going in or out, I just left the rail attached to the tank during removal. What gives with those fasteners? Do I now need a tank if I want to be able to remove them? I like the bike but must question some of the build quality as I already have small issues and only 11 hrs on the clock.
Glenn141 said:
The EJOT screws that hold the shrouds on will hold up fine as long as you don't over tighten them. The same holds true for all of the EJOT screws on the bike, just don't over tighten and you'll be fine.
The center bolts......... Can you get one side to come out? Try to leave one side tight and loosen one side, once you get one bolt out, there is a flat on that cross over tube that you can get a wrench on to remove the other side. Once you get them out, apply a good coat of anti seize to the bolts and the angled face of the bolt head, and do not over tighten them or you will be putting a heli coil in like I did. If you are unable to get the bolts out, then Husaberg will replace the tank etc....
I had anti siezed them from the start and didnt use much torque on them, I will try your method of removing them.
had to install heat shield on tank as well, also when shroud insert become loose , reinstall bolt and use a pair of pliers and pull the insert out of the tank ,put a little Gorilla Glue ( or equivilant) in the hole and reinstall insert and let the glue dry a day or so
I've been fighting a few demons with this bike too, when they show their face is usually when i'm deep in the woods, LOL. One day all my bike problems will be solved and I'll have enough money left in my pocket to going riding this wonderful machine
I've been fighting a few demons with this bike too, when they show their face is usually when i'm deep in the woods, LOL. One day all my bike problems will be solved and I'll have enough money left in my pocket to going riding this wonderful machine
Hello Glenn,
Genuine Dirt Racer products offers a midpipe coating service for $65 on an exchange basis, but all are out now awaitng return. Our coater conducted a test with a thermal sensor placed .125" from a midpipe. Uncoated with 1000 degree air blowing through the pipe he recorded a temp of 865 degrees. Coated, it dropped the temp to 280 (all temps in farenheit).
On my personal bike, I have applied heat tape to the bottom of the tank and run a coated midpipe. Also, I have a billet gas cap with the vent hole size increased. I have zero issues. Proper venting is very important. The heat tape works well on the lined (black) tanks, but I would not recommend using this on the standard tank as the fuel vapors coming through the plastic will cause the adhesive to release. For these tanks I recommend the CV products blanket (also available at GDR).
Our main reason for guarding against the heat was mainly to increase shock service intervals and enhance shock performance in long runs.
Regarding the EJOT screws, If you do not overtighten them then it is not an issue. I have used a plastic welder on stripped holes and this has worked great, but in the future, I will drill the hole larger and use a nutsert (expandable nut, rivnut etc) and use screws like the 2010 FE's. I have also encounterd 2010 FE's that have been damaged and replaced their inserts in a similar manner.
Thanks,
Bart Hayes
Genuine Dirt Racer products
genuinedirtracer.com
ridepg.com
Genuine Dirt Racer products offers a midpipe coating service for $65 on an exchange basis, but all are out now awaitng return. Our coater conducted a test with a thermal sensor placed .125" from a midpipe. Uncoated with 1000 degree air blowing through the pipe he recorded a temp of 865 degrees. Coated, it dropped the temp to 280 (all temps in farenheit).
On my personal bike, I have applied heat tape to the bottom of the tank and run a coated midpipe. Also, I have a billet gas cap with the vent hole size increased. I have zero issues. Proper venting is very important. The heat tape works well on the lined (black) tanks, but I would not recommend using this on the standard tank as the fuel vapors coming through the plastic will cause the adhesive to release. For these tanks I recommend the CV products blanket (also available at GDR).
Our main reason for guarding against the heat was mainly to increase shock service intervals and enhance shock performance in long runs.
Regarding the EJOT screws, If you do not overtighten them then it is not an issue. I have used a plastic welder on stripped holes and this has worked great, but in the future, I will drill the hole larger and use a nutsert (expandable nut, rivnut etc) and use screws like the 2010 FE's. I have also encounterd 2010 FE's that have been damaged and replaced their inserts in a similar manner.
Thanks,
Bart Hayes
Genuine Dirt Racer products
genuinedirtracer.com
ridepg.com
Thanks for the info Bart. I coated the head and mid pipe and I think I will be fine. 1st race on her is this weekend and I will have a real test of what the Berg can do. Should learn alot.
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