So obviously the 2 are related,is there any adjustments I can make at the basket to solve this? There is a brand new slave cylinder,master cylinder operates as it should,no air in the system.....it’s as if the throw on the pushrod is just coming up short. Adjusting lever span makes no difference.
Reading up on a few old posts it seems neutral selection is generally difficult on these,I just don’t like the clutch drag....maybe I will strip out the basket and see what lurks within...supposedly it has a slipper in there. We shall see
Joined Jun 2004
412 Posts | 17+
australia
Okay......Berg had shims to make sure the rod was the right length for maximum throw. Needed changing as clutch plates wear. But primitive idea .......you need to go back to the future......the Berg motor is simply a slimmed down husky motor from the late 80s and lighter or at least the first design was....when ktm took over the motors got heavy but more robust.......what you need to do is get the old husky clutch worm screw adjustment.....you need to fit it to the basket to make it possible to ensure the push rod starts moving when you pull the clutch with an allowance for heat to tighten things up...say 2mm play. It will work with no drag then. Slavens racing used to sell the worm screws if you don't want to make your own or hunt down an old husky part.
Joined Nov 2001
17K Posts | 773+
Ely, England
you probably have warped steels in there. the factory started 2004 with;
2 x 1mm steels AND
4 x 1.4mm steels in the middle. and FINISHED WITH
2 x 1mm steels
(4 thin, 4 thick)
that aids with dealing with the furnace of heat in the middle.
but the pack got too big so they went back to ;
8 x 1mm.
this isn't as good IMHO.
If you let the frictions wear right down, you can keep adding 1.4mm steels instead of 1mm steels.
I do the steels as an aftermarket item; 100360. but the overall pack can't be too big or they spill over the basket when you pull the lever in. i generally put a 'pill' (100167) in as the overall pressure plate is further out and the rod is thus a little too short.
it works...that is what matters. I've been heavily involved in Husaberg engines in sidecar crossers for over 12 years and two men on an outfit that weighs double going up a 1 in 2 hill in wet sand TESTS the clutch!
taffy
2 x 1mm steels AND
4 x 1.4mm steels in the middle. and FINISHED WITH
2 x 1mm steels
(4 thin, 4 thick)
that aids with dealing with the furnace of heat in the middle.
but the pack got too big so they went back to ;
8 x 1mm.
this isn't as good IMHO.
If you let the frictions wear right down, you can keep adding 1.4mm steels instead of 1mm steels.
I do the steels as an aftermarket item; 100360. but the overall pack can't be too big or they spill over the basket when you pull the lever in. i generally put a 'pill' (100167) in as the overall pressure plate is further out and the rod is thus a little too short.
it works...that is what matters. I've been heavily involved in Husaberg engines in sidecar crossers for over 12 years and two men on an outfit that weighs double going up a 1 in 2 hill in wet sand TESTS the clutch!
taffy
Joined Jun 2004
412 Posts | 17+
australia
Ok thanks Taffy,I suppose the best thing to do is strip the clutch out and measure the stack height,I’ll be in touch thanks
Joined Jun 2004
412 Posts | 17+
australia
Lever does not hit the bar,I get full throw at the lever with space before it hits the bar,slave cylinder does not leak as it’s brand new...oil level is midway on sight glass!
Joined Jun 2004
412 Posts | 17+
australia
Adjust the play at the lever so that you risk slipping clutch....then it won't drag. Consider finding a lever that has a softer elbow so you get more pull before it hits the bar. Most levers hit the bar before the bend.....I bent mine meaning my fingers had to reach out more but I got more pull length. Look at the oil you are using make sure 10/50.
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