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FS570 + 5" rear wheel

A

ace881

Joined Nov 2011
4 Posts | 0+
Taiwan
Hello everyone
I'm new Berger from Taiwan.
Husaberg's bike just launched in Taiwan in 2011.
so this brand is new and so mysterious to our people...

I want to buy a 5" rear wheel which is on Husaberg official force-part manual for my FS570
The part number is 5841000144430
The manual have description on it : for mounting the sprocket support and damping rubbers are required

But FS's stock rear wheel comes with sprocket support and damping rubbers.
They are already in there.
Should I buy another set?

I checked FS570's chassis parts manual.
the stock damping rubbers' part number 54610459000 is the same.
but sprocket support's number have little difference....

The FS stock sprocket support is 58310050244,
and on force-part manual, the one is 58310050044

Anyone knows the difference between this two number?
Or anyone has installed 5" rear wheel from force-part manual, can give me some advice?

I also check the 5" rear wheel 5841000144430
The number comes from 2003-2005 KTM 640 Supermoto Prestige,
so the wheel on force part manual comes from KTM 640 SM Prestige
On the bike....its sprocket support gets another part number : 58310050144.... :?

58310050244(FS 570 stock)
58310050044(force part manual suggested)
58310050144(640 Supermoto)
They made me headache....

Just want make sure I should buy 58310050044 OR FS's stock sprocket support can do it?
58310050044 is not cheap....don't want waste money if it's not necessary.

Any inputs should be thanked ^^
and sorry for my poor English!
 
Have you looked in to just buying a rim, and having it laced on your existing hub? You could keep the 4.25" or sell it. However, I do see a benefit of having two rears though.

If the sprocket carrier and rubber dampeners are sold separately, you could just switch them from one wheel to the other. It just pulls off the hub with a little tug. One wheel for track, one for street.
I only have one rear wheel now but have an extra Cush hub and carrier. I switch my rear sprocket by changing the carrier. Makes it a 10 second sprocket swap!

84d0acc9.jpg
 
Oh! Thanks Idle!!!
They're very good ideas for me!
It's cheap and convenient!

Many Thanks!
 
Don't bother with the cush drive. It's not needed and you get more direct feeling without one. Eats a bit more chains and sprockets and vibrates a little at slow speed/rpm, but it's nothing serious.

I almost got the 5" wheel from force parts catalog but ended with much nicer looking Excel pro series gold hubs and black excel rim wheel. Also changed the front to 16.5" with same hub and rim. Quality wise the Excel stuff is miles ahead of stock KTM/Berg wheels made by behr/saxxess. Those damn rims are soft as bubblegum! I even managed to bent the stock 570FS saxxess front wheel after small crash.
 
maKe said:
Don't bother with the cush drive. It's not needed and you get more direct feeling without one. Eats a bit more chains and sprockets and vibrates a little at slow speed/rpm, but it's nothing serious.

I almost got the 5" wheel from force parts catalog but ended with much nicer looking Excel pro series gold hubs and black excel rim wheel. Also changed the front to 16.5" with same hub and rim. Quality wise the Excel stuff is miles ahead of stock KTM/Berg wheels made by behr/saxxess. Those damn rims are soft as bubblegum! I even managed to bent the stock 570FS saxxess front wheel after small crash.
Click to expand...

I don't agree, I would recommend a cush hub for any bike that gets ridden on tarmac. It's not just the wear on chain and sprockets but rather the countershaft of the transmission, as you need to split the engine to replace it!!

I guess for a full-on race bike the weight savings of a non-cush hub might be worth the trade-off in longevity as they get rebuilt more often.

This is a KTM XC4 engine (same transmission) dual sported for 11k:

165513_1400472230650_1797631977_766-3.jpg
 
Hi,

I'm thinking to change the original 4.25" rear to 5". Do I need some special modding to fit 5" rear wheel? Chain eating my rear tyre?
 
5" is very tight back there, and the chain will dine on your tire and rim.

You'll need to at least dish the wheel towards the brake side, away from chain, and run a good chain guide. Guys have had luck with mounting a 04-06 KTM 625 SMC chain guide. They run $30 and you'll need to drill 2 holes in the swinger.

You'll need to choose your tire wisely as well, as to width. A Dunlop Q2 160 is more like a 170 and wont even fit. Mich and Pirelli run on narrow side. I ended up with a Mich Power1 150, after dealing with the Q2. Even with the 150, my chain still eats rubber and aluminum. I don't have that chain guide on yet.
 
Use DID ERT2 or VT2 chain with 5" + 160 tire and you are most likely good to go.

Mich 16/63 is a bit wide and maybe a minor chain kiss might occur. I'll try Dunlop 170 slick next time (more likely 155-160 tire) and see how it works. It looks narrower when mounted on. Haven't had any wheel slap and thats only 5.5" wheel problem imo, unless the offset is really screwed at the beginning.

I have approx 2-3mm sidewall to chain link clearance with Mich 16/63 slick, and using KTM SMC 625/640 chain guide.
 
Buy a chain guard that is stock on ktm 450smr (not the guard itself that goes around the swingarm but the little piece on top of the swingarm in front of the rear tyre)
This only costs 4€ or something and prevents the chain going to much to the inside of the rear tyre/rim when you run 5"
I got this on my 570 to it's a direct fit the hole to mount is already in the stock chainguard to fit this "protector"
I could make a piture but I do'nt have my bike here for the moment.... next weekend I'l get it back probably
 
The thing with tire and rim rub is you don't know if it is working well or not till it is too late. ;-)

With a new/er chain, things stay in alignment better, assuming near perfect tension, etc. If the chain wears much, or falls out of tension/too tight, it gets ugly real fast.

Even with the SMC guide, guys are replacing those plastic plates fairly quick. Some guys have created a roller rub plate may ultimately work best.
 
Yeah the SMC guide on my bike is worn down in a short time. It's still useable for maybe 50 hours, but not much more.
I suspect the stock guide kit is not up to it's job. Changed the guides after 50 or 60 hours. Upper guide was worn so badly that chain could live it's own life sideways.

TM Designworks guide kit is the only solution? It's just so stupidly expensive @ $160 or roughly same in euros.
 

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