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FS 650 keeping it cool[er]

Joined Jan 2013
16 Posts | 0+
Haarlem
My FS 650 2007 , keeps it cool when driving it,
I run a OEM KTM fan, but at low speeds it run to 100+c .
I'f i do this to long , my pump seal blows.

Because i want to do some slow wheelies, i want to improve the cooling.

Thinking about a bigger Fan, but then i have to upgrade the electrics,
because the [small] KTM fan , draines the battery allready.

Maybe use a larger radiator ????????

Any sugestions ??
 
You could try running 2 computer case fans. They run off 12 volts and don't draw much amperage. I have run them on my 650 before.
What are you using for coolant?
 
Re: FS 650 keeping it cool

Changing coolant won't help it run cooler, another fans your only option. What are you using to measure the temp? I've got the ktm fan on my bike and haven't had an issue when riding with the missus on a 35 deg day
 
35 deg?

we go to 48 here :oops:

if its in slow stuff a bigger pilot helps a lot

there is a weird coolant that apparently adheres better to the rough aluminium and doesn't boil so it doesn't form bubbles at nucleation points (like you see in a pot before it boils) this stuff does apparently reduce the temps .. but ive never tested it .. other quite competent people report that it works.

the best setup ive ever seen used ducted fan RC motors
 
Re: FS 650 keeping it cool

08FE650 said:
Changing coolant won't help it run cooler, another fans your only option. What are you using to measure the temp? I've got the ktm fan on my bike and haven't had an issue when riding with the missus on a 35 deg day
Beg to differ. Some coolants dissipate heat better than others. Some reduce boil over but do not do a good job of dissipating heat.
 
Has Berger says

Water is not the best in everything, but it's the best transferring the heat.

Did you ever looked for reasons why your bike boils ?

:cheers:
ZAGA
 
My bike doesn't boil, but even at 5c outside temp , in runs very hot
by stopping lights, when i'm driving no problem .teh it doesnt get above the 80c
An around the 100c i run a great risk of blowing the waterpump seal .
I use a KTM fan that start at 88c , but it can't control the heat
that is produces when it not driving.
Done that since a bought it, at 5000km,
it has got 40.000 on the clock now !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I want to create better airflow on the radiator[because drivng it
it never gets hot].
Don't want computer fans, don't trust them in the wet stuf ,
so i'm going for a fan of a 4 cyl jap i think .
But then i need better charging of battery , my KTM fan
can suck my YTZ7s dry in 10min .
So a bigger stronger fan wouldn't run very long
 
Never had a problem with the computer fans giving up. I have run them up to 2 years without issues. But then I live in the desert and they only occasionally see rain. When I wash the bike, I don't direct the spray onto the fans, other than that I take no precautions. The fans are cheap enough, what have you got to loose?
Sounds like your battery is marginal at best. You might want to try a Shorai.
 
i live in Holland and use my Berg as a daily driver,
It rains quit often here, so i think i need a more
water proof solution.
also i think the PC fans, arent strong enough to create
the needed airflow.
But i keep the idea in the back of my mind :wink: .

Battery isn't the problem [Lithium],
its more that the charging capacaty of the KTM
generator + regulator isn't that much .
I use more than the generator can produce
 
Hi
Again, why is tour bike running só hot ??? Or is your temp sensor going crazy ?

You must check carb or jetting or timing. ... As bushie referd you can Be running a very lean mix.


Your trying to cure symptoms not causes

:cheers:
ZAGA
 
but Zaga he wants to do slow speed burnouts .. you know lots of smoke :cheers: :cheers:


80035041044 is the number for the berg "force" fan

$134 at elite ktm

from the pic in the catalog it appears you get a thermo switch, fan mounting stuff and the wiring needed
 
Done 40.000km with this engine , so i must do something right 8) .
No slow burn outs, because i don't have a tire sponsor :wink: ,
but i want to use my berg for some party tricks , like
slow wheelies 12 oçlock etc .

Fuel mixture is normal on the dyno reading,
i allready use a KTM OEM fan Kit .
It start at 88c by the temp switch

Any body got a idea to keep my ^50 cooler at
[very]slow speeds ??
 
do you have an FCR carb ? with 40 000km you should probably check if the sealing o ring in the slide is still OK.. if its not this can make it lean

my brother built a hayabusa powered cr500

sized007.jpg


it has 3 cr500 radiators

on one side there is 1 radiator

on the other side there are 2 but one is behind the first

for slow running he used ducted fan Electric RC motors/fans and speed controllers from hobbyking

these electric motors blow an enormous amount of air

for your husa If you don't want to run a rich pilot I also would consider fitting 2 wr450 or crf450x radiators instead of the OEM single as they are bigger in area and will be more exposed to the air

or you could put 2 oem fans on ?

cheers
Bushie
 
40,000 KM! How many hours has it ran, and what work have you done?

I've got half that mileage on my 05 650. It has no fan, and has never boiled over. It gotten plenty hot a few times, but it was at 100°f (38°c) and was during an arduous slow off-road hill climb, or the 5 minute wait at the traffic lights.

I usually just shut it off if I have to wait for a second signal, but I usually just filter to the front.

Someone had asked what coolant you are using, but you haven't given it up yet.
Please tell, and include the ratio you are using.


I don't think bushie was referring to Evans coolant, but it's not waterbased, and doesn't boil.
It doesn't necessarily keep it from overheating. It just won't boil.

Im using Pentafrost SF (silicate free). It's pink, and specced for German cars. I use it 30%, and 70% distilled water. I also use a few capfuls of water wetter.

Water is the best for transferring heat, the ratio I'm running is working for me because it's mostly water.
I don't remember the freezing point of that ratio, I checked it with a bulb tester, and iirc it was around 10°f or minus 12°c.

At 50/50 it's -38°with 109° boiling point. Got that info here:
http://www.pentosin.net/pressreleases/C ... t_SF_2.pdf

Additionally, I've removed the thermostat and fitted a return hose from an FC model. It's never had a problem warming up, but doesn't get too cold here in California :D

You could do the same, and for cold temperature riding block off part of the radiator with tape or cardboard if necessary.

You might check out the condition of your radiator aswell. It needs a thorough cleaning every so often to be able to transfer the heat properly. Not really sure, but white vinegar might sparkle it up without harm. Just rinse it thoroughly when finished.




Also, could you please post a stunt video?
 
The RC motors , make me think, i allready was thinking
about one big[ger] fan of a 4cyl, to create more airflow
over the radiator

But my berg doesn't produce a lot of electric power,
so i drain my battery very quick ,
i'm 'working on a úpgrade'for the generator
More cooling arera [bigger rad's] is possible
but not my favorit, i want to keep it [looking] stock as possible .

In summer i could run a non thermostat system,
bu the rest of the year i need it, else it runs below the 65c .

I use Putoline coolant, specialy for cross,
my bike never boils, it blows a seal before boiling :roll:
Thinking of trying water with water wetter

First totall rebuild on 17,500 km, second is next week at 40.000.
Had some bad luck, broken rocker arm, broken[stop] bold start weight,
cracked [original piston], blown coolant o ring[ coolant in engine oil]
I do everything , exept pressing the big end myself .
I never ride it hard before warming it up ,
use motorex every 1000km[two weeks] ,
I like to work on my bike and give it plenty of attention

I 'm going to give the FCR 'extra' attention ,
maybe run a bigger iddle , ore a taffy jet kit
 
nice!

yes it was the water wetter i have heard about that improves the heat transfer

the RC ducted fan motors are brush less DC

they are very efficient i think you could have 4x the airflow you have now for less power consumption than a headlight
 

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