free wheel gear? sprague?

ManxBerg · Jan 26, 2009

I like many have a Berg that won't start on the electric button (Fe550e 2005).
It now has an R6 starter and bigger battery, valves and auto decomp checked and starts easily with the kickstart. (if it hasn't fallen off, though that's another story)

The starter motor seems to spin though and so I'm investigating the torque limiter and free wheel next. I have fallen into the trap of getting confused by the manual and the reference on the forum to sprague clutch's.
Is the sprague the free wheel gear and it's associated parts?

I have taken the RHS cases off and removed the Gear wheel torque limiter to test what torque it is releasing at. I have read the Doc's and am looking for around 15nm or I will try a shim in there to increase it.

The free wheel gear assembly is obviously harder to remove as it is behind the clutch and I don't want to remove it unless I have too. My immediate concern with this is the amount of play it has when the Gear wheel torque limiter has been removed. I can move it side to side by hand easily. should this part be more fixed or does it need to float free?

I hope someone understands what I mean by that or by chance has a bike apart at the moment and could check how much play they have.
Will ring Taffy soon to organise a shim and to discuss but advice and experience greatly recieved on this matter.
Kieran

ManxBerg · Jan 26, 2009

Just spoke to Taffy and things now much clearer, going to try a shim if I can get the thing apart. The amount of play is because the needle bearing is in the RHS engine cover so is held once reassembled. I wouldn't care so much if it had a kickstart on right hand side.
Owning a Husaberg is like a mechanics course, with this Forum as the classes and Taffy as the Proffesor

sparks · Jan 26, 2009

ManxBerg said:
I like many have a Berg that won't start on the electric button (Fe550e 2005).
It now has an R6 starter and bigger battery, valves and auto decomp checked and starts easily with the kickstart. (if it hasn't fallen off, though that's another story)

The starter motor seems to spin though and so I'm investigating the torque limiter and free wheel next. I have fallen into the trap of getting confused by the manual and the reference on the forum to sprague clutch's.
Is the sprague the free wheel gear and it's associated parts?

I have taken the RHS cases off and removed the Gear wheel torque limiter to test what torque it is releasing at. I have read the Doc's and am looking for around 15nm or I will try a shim in there to increase it.

The free wheel gear assembly is obviously harder to remove as it is behind the clutch and I don't want to remove it unless I have too. My immediate concern with this is the amount of play it has when the Gear wheel torque limiter has been removed. I can move it side to side by hand easily. should this part be more fixed or does it need to float free?

I hope someone understands what I mean by that or by chance has a bike apart at the moment and could check how much play they have.
Will ring Taffy soon to organise a shim and to discuss but advice and experience greatly recieved on this matter.
Kieran

Hi manx,

I had the same problem with mine 04 550 replaced the sprague clutch made no difference replaced the torque limiter, worked fine for a while then would only start when the engine was warm or hot, when cold the sprague clutch just slips.
So this weekend I had the job of replacing the water pump seal and fitted one of Orangebergs seal kits so while I was in there I removed all starter system, can't see the point of having a system that only works at 50%.
Must say the engine runs a lot quieter without the idler gear whizzing around, that gear must spin a some serious rpm.

If you are hearing a fairly loud squealing noise it will be the limiter if it's a whirring sound it will be the sprague.

Regards

Sparks.

Coastie · Jan 26, 2009

RE: Re: free wheel gear? sprague?

You can do the old cut an inch of the sprague spring. It works a treat.
There's another thread on how to do it.

ManxBerg · Jan 27, 2009

RE: Re: free wheel gear? sprague?

Clamped the torque limiter and it turned with less than 10NM so definately not as it should be.
I've since tried to get the nut off to put a shim on, but it's so shallow that i'm in danger of rounding it off and it won't budge.
Anyone done this mod and how did they do it?

sparks · Jan 27, 2009

Re: RE: Re: free wheel gear? sprague?

ManxBerg said:
Clamped the torque limiter and it turned with less than 10NM so definately not as it should be.
I've since tried to get the nut off to put a shim on, but it's so shallow that i'm in danger of rounding it off and it won't budge.
Anyone done this mod and how did they do it?

Hi Manx,

I locked the smaller gear of the limiter in my lath chuck and didn't seem all that tight.
I would say you want to be looking around a 10 thou shim, don't over do it or you might end up loosing teeth off one or more of the gears.

Regards

Sparks.

ManxBerg · Jan 27, 2009

RE: Re: RE: Re: free wheel gear? sprague?

Hi Sparks I've managed to get the smaller gear off the back but cannot get the pin out of the large gear (so that I only have it in 2 pieces instead of in 4 pieces). I've tried hitting it and pressing it and it is now in my oven. Without the pin section out obviously I cannot put the shim between it and the curved washer. Did yours come apart easily after you removed the smaller gear?

sparks · Jan 27, 2009

Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: free wheel gear? sprague?

ManxBerg said:
Hi Sparks I've managed to get the smaller gear off the back but cannot get the pin out of the large gear (so that I only have it in 2 pieces instead of in 4 pieces). I've tried hitting it and pressing it and it is now in my oven. Without the pin section out obviously I cannot put the shim between it and the curved washer. Did yours come apart easily after you removed the smaller gear?

When I undid the nut the two halves just came apart, sounds as though you nut is stuck in the larger gear, but there is nothing to hold it in, strange.

Regards

Sparks.

ManxBerg · Jan 27, 2009

RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: free wheel gear? sprague?

Does anyone how much is a new one of these?

swedishsteel · Jan 27, 2009

Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: free wheel gear? sprague?

ManxBerg said:
Hi Sparks I've managed to get the smaller gear off the back but cannot get the pin out of the large gear (so that I only have it in 2 pieces instead of in 4 pieces). I've tried hitting it and pressing it and it is now in my oven. Without the pin section out obviously I cannot put the shim between it and the curved washer. Did yours come apart easily after you removed the smaller gear?

In the Owners Doc, under engine upgrades its a picture of the part splitted. If its help.

Regards

husabutt · Jan 27, 2009

Have a dealer check your Vin# against Tech Bulletin #0502/40/01 concerning 2005 models, which calls for the replacement of a faulty Torque Limiter Gear and retorquing of the primary nut.

I have a 05 450 which has the same part # Limiter as yours and mine e-starts perfectly. Mine was not affected by the recall.

If you can't get it covered under warranty a new one is about $170.00.

The same part# was used on all models 2004-2008.

http://husaberg.com/Service-Check.114.0.html

Johnf3 · Jan 27, 2009

husabutt said:
Have a dealer check your Vin# against Tech Bulletin #0502/40/01 concerning 2005 models, which calls for the replacement of a faulty Torque Limiter Gear and retorquing of the primary nut.

I have a 05 450 which has the same part # Limiter as yours and mine e-starts perfectly. Mine was not affected by the recall.

If you can't get it covered under warranty a new one is about $170.00.

The same part# was used on all models 2004-2008.

http://husaberg.com/Service-Check.114.0.html

Mine was recalled, and got the updated part. The starter still spins wihout engaging when cold. Works perfectly warm. After 4 years, I have become used to it and chalked it up to "just a Husaberg thing".

ManxBerg · Jan 27, 2009

Bike starts easily with the kickstart so would continue to use the kicker when cold, would just love the electric start for racing.

Just to clarify with those who have done the shim mod. I've looked at the pics of the parts splitted and can't seem to get the pin out of the large gear. Does the hexagonal nut ever have to come completely off the pin (and then go back on for the pic) or does that bit come out as one? My pin would come out if I could pull it the other way but it has a nut and washer to stop it going in that direction and will not be pulled or pushed out the obvious way no matter what I try.

Will contact a dealer tommorrow to see if I can get a new one but will still try and shim the old one too.

swedishsteel · Jan 27, 2009

ManxBerg said:
Bike starts easily with the kickstart so would continue to use the kicker when cold, would just love the electric start for racing.

Just to clarify with those who have done the shim mod. I've looked at the pics of the parts splitted and can't seem to get the pin out of the large gear. Does the hexagonal nut ever have to come completely off the pin (and then go back on for the pic) or does that bit come out as one? My pin would come out if I could pull it the other way but it has a nut and washer to stop it going in that direction and will not be pulled or pushed out the obvious way no matter what I try.

Will contact a dealer tommorrow to see if I can get a new one but will still try and shim the old one too.

just clamp the small gear in a wise, with som soft like alu betwen, not to damage the gear. and just unscrew the hex, the hex and pin is the same part.

Regards

ManxBerg · Jan 27, 2009

Done that, eventually got it undone using a breaker bar.
I was then expecting it to be a case of pulling/tapping the bar though the big gear inserting a shim before the washer, reassemble and start putting the bike together, but I can't get the bar pushed though the gear as it seems to have some sort of collar stopping it from sliding through that way.

Faust · Feb 7, 2009

for whom their sprag gone, ktm free wheel 03 PN#80040026000 is the same as husa around $48.at least the cheapest spag i have managed to found with the same piece profile and you can replace the pieces int the sprag at the worst case.but i am sure they are the very same, i checked the pn#.some other brads such as aprilia uses similar bearing with the same piece profile and but they are as high as $100.thats a pity for those who dont know about the parts..

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