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Forks, not the same length?!?

Joined Mar 2003
582 Posts | 2+
Waterbury, Connecticut, USA
Hello folks,

So, I'm finally installing a set of forks I bought last year... I noticed, that the two different forks are different in length by around 10mm (that's aboot 3/8" to us Imperial unit users).

They are *********** inverted, from around a '96. I do know that these particular shocks use one for compression damping, and one for rebound damping. So, I was thinking this might have something to do with it.

In the end, unless someone is adamant about me NOT using them as it, I will just install them with a bit of extra preload on one side. I understand someone might suggest I just offset one side (or both for that matter) to get things to line up, but I am iffy on that one.

Any thoughts?

-Parsko
 
Parsko my bike is a 96 with the forks you are talking about. One of the adjusters may be turned in more than the other. Go ahead and mount the forks (after checking to make sure the fork oil level is right) and you should be able to line them up. I have had the forks off of my bike a few times and if both are not adjusted the same it will look like one is shorter or longer than the other. Shouldn`t have any problems. Take care.
 
Bill,

When you say adjusters, do you mean the rebound/comp screws in the middle of the top of the forks? I did adjust those and actuated each shock to "see what happened", and it didn't seem to make a huge difference (though, it was off the bike).

Also, checking oil level. I read the WP manual in the downloads section last night before bed. Please confirm that checking the oil is a simple as: removing the screw, in the middle, on the top, of each shock (to relieve pressure if I remember), then taking a 24mm spanner and spinning off that same cap where the screw is located, and viewing into the shock to see where the oil is???

Thanks for the insight.

-Parsko
 
The easiest way I can think of is to go ahead and put the forks on. The adjusters are on the top (be very careful with the bleed screws cause they like to break off) one side is compression the other rebound. If the forks are just like mine, when the cap nut is off the first thing you see is the spring with its retainers (you won`t see any oil). Remove the retainers and then the springs. Compress the fork as far up as if will go, then check the oil level. Its not hard to do, just hard to explain. I have found out that its easier to check the oil level and such with the forks mounted on the bike, with the front end off the ground. Be sure to loose the top mount bolts holding the forks before you try to loosen the fork cap nut. Hope this helps.
 
Yes, actually, that is well described, thanks.

But, one more question I forgot to ask earlier:

There are two screws on top of each fork; one in the middle (for damping adjustment), and one offset (off the face of the "nut", I presume is the bleed screw you speak of), is this correct??

-Parsko
 
Parsko said:
Yes, actually, that is well described, thanks.

But, one more question I forgot to ask earlier:

There are two screws on top of each fork; one in the middle (for damping adjustment), and one offset (off the face of the "nut", I presume is the bleed screw you speak of), is this correct??

-Parsko
Yes thats the bleed screw a word of caution be real careful with them, because they will wring off.
 
Wrong WP fork lenght

On my "01" FC550 that I purchased new in "04", one fork was 5mm longer than the other. It was the wrong internal parts. The dealer had a "01" FE650 on the floor and I think when they put the bikes together they mixed up the forks. By the Husaberg parts manual Fe forks are 5mm shorter than FC forks. I had to buy a few parts to get it right. The dealer would not check out his FE650 to see if I was right.

"01" FC550 parts#4860.0081 tube 28 m29,3x1 L:390
"01" FE650 PART#4860.0140 tube 28 m29,3x1 L:385
 
Now you guys have me really paranoid about these forks! Crap, I already paid enough to get these things, I would hate to have to pay to have them rebuilt.

Out of curiosity, how much do the tools cost to buy to rebuild these things?

-parsko
 
Parsko said:
Now you guys have me really paranoid about these forks! Crap, I already paid enough to get these things, I would hate to have to pay to have them rebuilt.

Out of curiosity, how much do the tools cost to buy to rebuild these things?

-parsko
Parsko have you put the forks on yet? If the forks aren`t leaking then put your front wheel on and give it a go. It should line up. Sounds like you`re making a mountain out of a mole hill. Remember if its not broke don`t fix it.
 
Okay, not freaking out any more. Breathe in, breathe out, breathe in, hold, pass out...

Does anyone know what the difference between these two manuals that are located in the downloads section?

WP MXMA fork Owner's Manual
WP Extreme Fork Manual

-Parsko
 
Okay. Now that my relatively slow workweek of designing mounts using solid models created by someone who does a VERY poor job of following modelling standards, here I am. Watching the Yankees edge out a 3-2 lead against the Mets, drinking a beer.

Spent some quality time with the berg in the garage. With my trusty WP manuals printed from the downloads section, conveniently provided by our fellow members, I got to work.

Pulled the caps off the shocks with a 24mm socket, after relieving the pressure via the bleed screw. Wow, what's this stuff? Compressed the inner tube into the outer tube, removed the spring retainers, springs slid out off the plunger. Did the same thing to the other side. Checked inside to see if there was oil, tried to measure it using the WP manual, but didn't quite understand where to measure from (my first question for this post).

Looked at the shims. I said, "Hmm, the rebound side has more shims in it. AND, more by about the amount that the shock is longer." Okay, I continue.

Both springs out. Inspect. I said, "Self, something REALLY doesn't look right here. One spring is longer than the other. To make life a tad bit more baffling, the longer spring goes into the shorter shock (compression)."

Longer shock-shorter spring-thicker spacers
Shorter shock-longer spring-thinner spacers

Not too much of a surprise, spring rate might have something to do with this. BUT, I am now convinced, these shocks are not the same. So, being an engineer, what do I do. Yup, you got it, I take some measurements, and they look something like this:

Compression side (with brake caliper)
Shorter shock
Longer Spring
Spring Free length=540mm
Spacer Height= 4.45mm
Overall fork length=980mm

Rebound side
Longer shock
Shorter spring
Spring free length=525mm
Spacer Height=19.7mm
Overall fork length=989mm

I also noticed that the inner tube, without the spring installed, was able to extend further out of the outer tube. Alluding me to believe that there is a stop that the retainers use to determine overall free length of the fork. And this must be the issue.

My request to fellow UHE members:
Could someone with an older style berg (pre '00), with inverted forks (probalbly pre '97), please measure the overall length of the forks and reply to this thread, please include your model and motor size?

I measured from the top of the 24mm nut at the top of the fork (not including the damping adjustment brass screw), to the bottom of the aluminum hub at the bottom.

What I finally did was offset one shock from the other in the triple clamps so the axle lined up in both. Picture can be found here:

Picture of shock offset

Luckily, I had a few dutch friends to help me with the job in the form of delicious Bavaria beer.

I have to say, I am a tad bit upset. Not enough to punch stuff, but enough to tell you all about. For, I paid good money for these forks, and they seem to be wrong. To make things worse, I bought them from HMS. I thought this was a place to trust, but this isn't the only time I have been burned by them. I also bought, what I thought was a new rocker, only to find that the spot where the decompressor would engage had been ground down (so as to hide a worn spot where the decompressor had been engaging in the bike it was previously installed in). The only reason I bought the rocker was because my existed one had said decompressor wear on it! I am not sure if either of these are directly their fault, but that is 2 for 2 with bad stuff, and enough hundred bucks out of my pocket. Okay, I'll leave that there, and not say anymore. Sorry.

Some other pictures I took tonight:

Picture of the front of the bike

Picture showing the shims

Picture of springs of different length

Well, the yankees won, I've drank yet another beer, and I don't want to type this novel anymore.

-Parsko
 
I would not worry about it. More than likely the springs on each side was set up to a personal riding sytle. Put your front wheel on and ride it some and then see what you think. More than likely you woudn`t have to do anything. Hey after a couple of cold ones I`am starting to sound like somebody else we all know and personally I think very highly of. PS no body understands me either. Hope this sheds some light on the subject.Good luck.
 
re: stop

Yes there are stops in the forks but the only way to check them is to remove the bolt at the bottom of the fork leg. Once that is removed you can remove the damper from the fork and separate the upper from the lower. Be sure to drain all the oil out first. Hope this helps.
 

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