fork tuning for enduros

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smorgy

i already did one reply and wiped it!

i think that the oil in the top of the fork is cavitating. one area is doing all the work! rather like a milkshake.

i like you am running 130mm air gap and suffer from stutter bumps and a lack of low speed rebound. maybe lew or viking can help - both know far more than me.

i didn't follow you and this circlip? are you saying that you can pull the MV from the bottom of the fork leg through the BV hole? fantastic if it can be done!

regards

Taffy
 
Taffy, I think you are right about the milkshake and can think of no other cure than a larger MV float in conjunktion with a not too weak BV. What if just a single stage BV would do it? I have not tested the latest setting on the shallow bumps, it's on the motocross course and it has been too hot to ride in the sun. In the shadow in the forest on rocks it rocks if you are not too shy on the throttle.

I do not pull the MV through the BV hole. The Egyptians pulled out the brain through the nose when they mummified people. Instead the BV remains in the fork leg, acting as a plug preventing the oil from escaping. the cartright is then unscrewed and removed from the fork while the BV is still in the fork. The circlip is just a precausion to stop the BV from falling out now that the cartridge tube was removed. Put a log under the wheel because without the cartridges there is nothing to prevent the forks to extend too far. Not many drops of oil are spilled. You have to remove the handle bar to be able to access the fork lids, but that is only the two nuts beneath the upper yoke.
regards
 
smorgy

one of the things i've seen done is to machine/port the ports (if you follow me!) in the pistons - dangeroo0 has given me advice on this. one has to be careful here because the idea is to increase the flow as little as possible while rounding the edges and stopping the cavitation as much as possible.

the two-stage BV IMHO is a must and was agreed on by nearly all.

as for the float of just 0.8mm etc well i've seen a few get onto this and it's meant to stop fork dive coming up to corners.

i'm out this sunday for the first time in 5 weeks and before that 2 months so i will try and get a feel for it. i'm then out two weeks later and then maybe 2/4 so i can tickle it up a bit however i've just moved house and can't find anything!

i have a HC piston i might fit. but it would seem foolish to do this when it's running ok and i'm strapped for time and cash if it goes tits up!

please share your views further though as talk is cheap! LOL :lol: :lol:

another thing: if you let all the oil go up through the MV, when you need all your suspension in a g-out: all the oil is above the MV and therefore you get fork lock quicker surely? but this small amount of oil never gets a rest and must cavitate.

if we use the BV more there will be more oil on the outside of the cartridge/around the base of the leg and little above the MV. so now it won't bottom out and so we can add more oil (in order to get to the fork lock at max travel again - i hope you do the same?). more oil cavitates less. also i believe that fork lock may be coming early with the cavitation and therefore we can afford oil above the MV on a g-out because it isn't all frothed up and therefore this will allow the rebound to work better.

what i'm saying is that there might be oil; permanently above the MV that never makes it back down, this will keep the oil in better condition and less cavitation - sharing the work so to spreak!

so: softer BV, harder MV = room for more oil = more oil (120-110 air gap?) = no cavitation = better rebound?

how does that sound?

regards

Taffy :D
 
Here is an very interesting thread from thumpertalk,
fork modification from Dave Johnson "Phase 4" actually it´s for KYB´s but his ideas should work on WP too?
http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showth ... p?t=431575 & http://s22.photobucket.com/albums/b341/davetj123/



And here it is, the KYB PHASE 4 Fork - a home grown build-up that is the cumulative result from just about everyone that has ever posted a question or an answer on the ThumperTalk suspension forum. All that stuff that keeps you thinking and wondering and, well, humble.

It is an old fork made new. Possibly, an old fork made new to be better than anything out there, new or old. It’s not the likes of a hot rod or a big bore kit, but more along the lines of throwing out the old clunky carburetor and bolting on the latest in electronic fuel injection – perfect combustion regardless of terrain, speed or the need of the rider.

It is that good.

It is quite possibly the best fork that any of you will ever ride on. It’s so good that it requires you to re-learn how to ride, to look at a pothole, root or a g-out and say, “So whatâ€Â
 
Gokai134 said:
Here is an very interesting thread from thumpertalk,
fork modification from Dave Johnson "Phase 4" actually it´s for KYB´s but his ideas should work on WP too?
http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showth ... p?t=431575 & http://s22.photobucket.com/albums/b341/davetj123/



And here it is, the KYB PHASE 4 Fork - a home grown build-up that is the cumulative result from just about everyone that has ever posted a question or an answer on the ThumperTalk suspension forum. All that stuff that keeps you thinking and wondering and, well, humble.

It is an old fork made new. Possibly, an old fork made new to be better than anything out there, new or old. It’s not the likes of a hot rod or a big bore kit, but more along the lines of throwing out the old clunky carburetor and bolting on the latest in electronic fuel injection – perfect combustion regardless of terrain, speed or the need of the rider.

It is that good.

It is quite possibly the best fork that any of you will ever ride on. It’s so good that it requires you to re-learn how to ride, to look at a pothole, root or a g-out and say, “So what”. For me, it has removed the fear and brought back the fun in riding. Riding the tracks, the woods, fetching firewood. It works.

I have gone through more fork designs and rounds of testing in my life than Travis Pastrana has done back flips, and this one tops them all. Yes, the KYB Isolated Damping Fork (IDF) was a big step forward, but this one just nails it and confirms the feel of what riding a bike is all about. Have I made my point?

Onward! :applause:

Why PHASE 4?

There are four design aspects that make this fork work, responsive (rapid) hydraulic damping, cartridge backfill, bottoming and ulta high speed blow-off.

Now, some of those can’t exist without one working with the other, making this a very integrated and dependent design. Here’s why.

We have read over and over again all the various complaints that TT users have with their forks. Oddly enough, users will post concerns about a fork that feels stiff but also seems to blow-through or bottom too frequently and in worse case, is soft but seems to push in the corners.

The simplest answer, without providing a solution, is that the problem is one of too much or too little damping. Not enough when you need it, and too much when you don’t. The tuner’s challenge then becomes the process of removing and adding shims in order to flatten and reshape the damping curve but at a cost of compromising performance elsewhere.

DampingChart1.jpg


Here’s what’s happening. In the first chart the low speed damping does not climb fast enough. This is common with mid-valves that have too much float. For these movements, the rider may end up getting an improper balance between spring and oil resistance, which I often refer to as “riding the spring”. During ultra high-speed movements, the base and mid-valve stacks are as wide open as they can get, but they are not able to vent the volume of fluid in such a short amount of time. The reason? Shims are only capable of progressing at a linear or greater than linear rate. In other words, you can never expect a shim to lift to some degree, then ask it to get soft. Once the climb starts upwards, it is never going to flatten or drop off while velocities build.

The real trick is getting a shim stack to behave on both ends of the spectrum. To have ideal low, mid, high and ultra high-speed performance.

Now, while we are on this subject, there is another matter that I call “hydraulic crossover”. It is the process or measurement of when one damping circuit reaches a limit or boundary and another damping circuit comes into play.

For example, most of us know that when you turn a clicker screw you are bypassing the shim-stack. In most cases, the by-pass circuit is so small that the only effect that the clicker will have is towards the bottom of the damping curve. The reason is that the port or hole size of the by-pass can only accommodate a given amount of fluid before it reaches a maximum flow regardless of how much pressure is put on it. This is called “hydro-dynamic lock”.

This means that at some point, the by-pass circuit locks, and the shims on the piston need to lift to accommodate the fluid flows. However, the timing of this “cross-over” is critical in that if the bleed circuit is maximized before the shim stack can lift, you’re left with a hydraulic or damping gap. Without getting too far into this, the trick is to have a seamless and smooth transition in force (resistance) as velocities build.

With that in mind, let’s get back to taking a closer look at the PHASE 4.

The first matter at hand was to be able to build-up a rod stem that could accommodate the works. A blow-off circuit, a configurable mid-valve stack, a limiting device for the mid-valve stack and the rebound stack, and do so with a design that can use both the earlier one piece piston and the later two piece pistons.

This meant laying out all the components and machining a new stem to meet the new spec.

ValveTest2.jpg


And here are what the stems look like fresh off the CNC. These are made from 303 stainless but I can also get them made from titanium ($$).

NewStems.jpg


The next step was to produce the base assembly but this was carried over from the same design that I used with the IDF design. No real change except some additional considerations for load and spacing.

BaseAssembly.jpg


The chart on the left shows the loads that are applied on the blow-off springs via the shim pre-load rings (not shown).

Here are the final pieces.

BasePieces.jpg


The next step was to build a cartridge back fill device without losing the option of using the RSP bottoming cones (more on these later).

This meant that fluid would have to flow in and behind the mid-valve as compression cycles occurred but close and lock the fluid in as rebound cycles occurred – your basic check valve.

However, it’s a tight space and the design would have to be rapid enough to allow the valve to open and shut a few hundred or thousand times a minute, and the flows would have to be generous enough to meet the needs, so to speak.

The fix was to add two sets of three ports into the RSP cone, three on each side that go from the top and outside of the cartridge, and curve and flow downward. BTW - any bubbles that may build up on top of the fluid are well over 2 to 3 inches above the intake ports of the valve.

Then a new strike plate would need to be created to accommodate the flows coming from the RSP cone, and also hold and manage the new check plate and spring.

Conesx2.jpg


CONETower.jpg


SmashPlates.jpg



And here is what they look like assembled onto the cartridge.


cartassem.jpg


AND…this is what the complete assemblies (mid, rebound, blow-off and back-fills) look like before they are put into the cartridges.

completeassem.jpg


completeassem2.jpg


The last item was also a carry over from some of the IDF work and which is obviously part of the PHASE 4 fork. This is, the Double Bottoming System (DBS). This is the integration of a hydraulic end-of-stroke oil lock that also incorporates the factory bumper bottoming system by engaging a fixed amount of the bumper stop before the bottom of the hydraulic stop is reached. This is done by shaping the spring guide and lock nut to bring the top of the RSP cone in contact with the bumper stop. For most of the forks I have built up the engagement is set to 3mm.

Here is a photo to show how these assemblies came together.

dbs.jpg


So that’s it.

Beyond this is the need for others to build up the same fork, or use components of this design with other designs. For example, if a tuner wanted to swap out the existing factory cartridge valves and offer their customers the additional advantages of the bottoming system they could simply use a kit as such.

In other words, the backfill and DBS option should allow the professional tuner or DIY the ability to expand and build out their fork line without having to go to such extremes as adding or building in all the blow-off circuits.

DBSkit.jpg


However, if it were desired, an entire kit as such could also be acquired. This photo shows all the parts used to completely build-up a pair of PHASE 4 forks.

bigkit.jpg


Now, in the spirit of ThumperTalk and the fact that all of this was really derived from the help of others, this fork design is free to anyone who wishes to built it except those that wish to build them for profit. If you have the machining and mechanical assembly skills, I have no problem with providing all the drawings and specs that one would need to go at it. Consider it the equivalent of an open source code. Besides, the more the merrier.

However, I can already tell you that if you had to go out and purchase all the required springs, the RSP cones, the material and machine labor, you’re looking at a hefty price tag. I built three prototypes and each pair was about $600. However, if I purchase and have stuff made in quantity the price comes down significantly. I have yet to figure this out but if there’s enough interest I’ll be more than happy to make it happen.

Lastly, I have mentioned that I am not in the suspension business per say, in that I don’t do the work as so many other readily available shops do. However, this one is a bit of exception simply since it is such an amazing fork. If you have the money and the need, but not the skill or the time to deal with it, I can take in about 10 to 15 forks over the next month. Again, I’ll have to work over a price but I think it can be done for about $375 for the pair. Additionally, this fork has an endless array of configurations for shim stacks and blow-off rates so there is really no end as to how you can tune it and what you can use it for.

Lastly, I guess it is intuitive that for those that always dreamed of the perfect woods and MX fork, this is it.

Now, I own and use one of the three prototypes. The other two have gone out to two other TT members, one of which also has a set of KYB TCs to make a comparison to. Both are advanced and worthy riders and hopefully will have the time to chime in and provide some additional opinions other than my hype.

Let me know if you have any questions.


SPECIFICATIONS

GENERAL
Name: KYB PHASE 4
Type: Inverted Dual Configuration – telescopic KYB – open cartridge – 46 and 48mm
Application: Motocross, Supercross, Woods, Desert
Travel: 11.5 - 292mm
Fluid: KAYABA FR01 Racing Suspension Fluid
Fluid Capacity: 596cc minimum

HYDRAULIC DAMPING
MID-VALVE
Stem: 43mm stem – 303 stainless or titanium– standard porting
Piston: 2 or 4 port 32mm KYB – standard or polished porting
Stack: Configurable up to 14 shims – single or multi-staged
Lift: 24mm limit plate with adjustable shim stop
Blow off: Adjustable compression spring. Rate = 318inlbs/56N
Blow off shims: 0 to 6 – .5mm (.020”) increments
Maximum Blow off rate: 37.77lbs/168N

BASE
Stem: 37.8mm stem – modified KYB base - aluminum
Piston: 4 port 25mm KYB – standard or polished porting
Blow-off shims: 0 to 6 – .5mm (.020”) increments
Stack: Configurable up to 14 shims – single or multi-staged
Lift: 24mm limit plate with adjustable shim stop
Blow off: Adjustable compression spring. Rate = 318inlbs/56N
Blow off shims: 0 to 6 – .5mm (.020”) increments
Maximum Blow off rate: 37.77lbs/168N

REBOUND
Piston: 2 or 4 port 32mm KYB – standard or polished porting
Stack: Configurable up to 14 shims – single or multi-stage

CARTRIDGE VALVING
Type: Multi-port spring loaded one-way check plate
Back Fill: Double sided 6 port – rebound lockout with .33inlbs/.06N clamp spring
Strike Plate: 6 port 303 stainless or titanium

SPRING
Accommodates all standard Kayaba and aftermarket spring sets
Air/Oil: Minimum/Maximum Fluid Level: 130mm/80mm
Spring Pre-load: 10mm preset – adjustable with 2.2mm ring plates

BOTTOMING CONTROL
End of stroke: Double Bottoming System (DBS) with modified RSP hydraulic lock 866 taper plus rubber damper - 3mm engagement

SETTINGS
Base Compression: Standard KYB needle by-pass – 14 settings
Rebound: Standard KYB needle by-pass – 14 settings
Oh, THAT is a fantastic link! It will take a while to digest. Thank you.
 
Taffy said:
another thing: if you let all the oil go up through the MV, when you need all your suspension in a g-out: all the oil is above the MV and therefore you get fork lock quicker surely? but this small amount of oil never gets a rest and must cavitate.
Remember that relative to the chassis the fork cartridge cylinder is mobile and the piston fixed. On a hit the ceiling above the MV rises fast, increasing the volume above the MV fast. There would be a void unless the BV rose at the same speed as the cylinder and pressed in oil through the MV to fill the void. But if your BV is weak and can not hold up against the oil pressure, it would pass the needed oil out through the BV compression stack, the void above the MV would not fill immediately. And on the following rebound stroke some oil is missing for the rebound damping. That is how I think it works.

The first stage of the BV is weak and that is why I suspected it. Maybe unrightfully.

When the fork is working deeper in stroke the air gap pressure is higher and will help the BV hold up against the pressure from the MV. If you increased the air pressure by reducing the air gap maybe you would help the base valve to stand up against the oil pressure, but not by much and you would get an offensively progressive fork.
The volume of the piston rod would have to escape through the BV no matter what so there must always be some oil escaping the BV at the hits, but you would not like more oil escaping the cartridge than that.

I do not think that oil will froth like a Guinness even when not getting any rest. Even a Guiness would eventually go off if stirred for a while. Not that I ever would let it.
A void in the oil may be one volume or many tiny bubbles that would look like froth but unlike the Guinness froth they would still be many small voids that would collapse if subjected to pressure, that is the difference.
(The Guinness froth can easily withstand the pressure of one atmosphere while being poured and clovered.)





A good friend made these computer models from sketches he got. It started with some ideas around the MV backing that I recently presented to him.
MVbacking.sized.jpg

Upper right is a curved MV backing that is adjustable on the tap and you lock it with a screw from the side. The side screw makes it impossible to use a single MV spring, you have to use two small ones and that is what the pockets are for.
Upper left is adjustable too but is self locking by using a mid-grip Heli-Coil and a single spring can be used in it. The thread is a M9x1 thread and I do not know if it is possible to use the original MV tap.
Lower left is a MV backing to be used with the oem tap on which you'd have to remove the integral flex limit. Then just slip on this one and you have a backing allowing the MV shims to flex as much as they can but not more. When fully flexed they also project less area in the 28 mm cylinder and I would not be surprised if they present less ultra high speed resistance than the blow-off in the link above, which does not allow the MV shims to fold to the same degree. All right, they do back off from the piston face, but it is hard to tell which is more effective. If you only could do both.
Lower right is an escape route if the curved MV backing does not work. It is the equvivalent to the flex limiting on my present MV taps.

MVbacking3.sized.jpg

This is the MV backing shown with a single very thick shim. .30 mm I think.


When shown the link above he was challanged to fit refill ports to the oem bottoming cone. I did not think that there was any possibility to squeeze them in. He proved me wrong:
konghost.sized.jpg

The balls are 4mm nylon balls and they are retained by the bushing.
Should make it possible for the fork to suck in oil through the intake ports and recover a lot faster from frothing.
konT.sized.jpg

konI.sized.jpg

konS.sized.jpg

Regards
 
hell me smorgy, you have been busy! excellent graphics and i understood them all but it is at the limit of my knowledge as all i've done is basic work. i've not had the SP on shim flex from katoomtalk so no idea if that two-sided float/bend is viable. i would have thought that shims would learn to stay bent unfortunately!

the beauty of the present system is that the shims just about go back to flat and several riders have noted a drop in performance when the shims 'cupped'.

well if the MV drives down into the cartridge and the oil can't get away we're getting lock. if we let it out any quicker we get bottoming!

yet we need more oil - and above the rebound/mv tap for better rebound control? maybe you need to do the "17cm drill mod!" look for it in the doc/front suspension.

regards

Taffy
 
I'd prefer to be able to make the fork a really good fork without complicating it. The intakes on the bottoming cone will probably stay as a concept. But as the graphics were great I wanted to share it. The cuved MV backing is a lot simpler and I think it will work.
Taffy said:
well if the MV drives down into the cartridge and the oil can't get away we're getting lock. if we let it out any quicker we get bottoming!
Thats exactly the point.
The shims can only take so much bending repeatedly without getting cupped. I think that in there lies the limitation.
The backing is supposed to have that very radius they can take, thus be allowed to flex as far as possible which is also the the largest possible opening for the oil to pass since the shims will fold back to their very limit and project more open area between the shim edge and cartridge wall.
If the shims are at 24 mm and the cylinder at 28 mm there is only a 2 mm annular opening in between to pass the oil, you let them bend back and they fold and that increases the area.
Normally, to give a smooth bend, you use backing shims and flex limiting, but you are lucky if you can get every part of each shim to flex to its maximum but not the slightest bit more. Instead you use the proven backing shim stack and existing flex limit to be on the safe side. If you are much on the safe side, for every shim and every part of every single shim, the shims are not flexing to their potential, no wonder you get lock. I think this would happen at ultra high speed only but that would be the time you needed the MV to open to the widest possible to reduce the hydraulic lock spike. This does not mean that you have to make the MV stack weak, I think you could make it stronger since it without damage can be fold back a little bit further causing less lock at the very hard hits.

A little less spike, a little less bottoming, so I hope, by rather simple means. It might not work but the proof is in the pudding and sometimes you have to make the pudding to get the answer.
I'm not there yet to try it but as you said:
Taffy said:
please share your views further though as talk is cheap! LOL

Taffy said:
i like you am running 130mm air gap and suffer from stutter bumps and a lack of low speed rebound.
But the lack of low speed rebound damping was limited to those shallow stutter bumps at acceleration. Now I've lost track, but I can't remember if it ever recurred after going from two shims in the first stage of the BV to three. Instead I just created other problems that I didn't have before and that occupied my attention. Problems like diving too far in different situations causing a not safe feeling and shims getting damaged in no time. But it gave valuable experience so it was not a total waste after all.


Taffy said:
i think that the oil in the top of the fork is cavitating. one area is doing all the work! rather like a milkshake.
If it does work that way you'd like to have some circulation so that the oil inside the cartridge can get out for some rest after having gotten brutally worked inside the cartridge. Supposed you plugged the 1.3 mm hole in the spoke in the MV piston and instead drilled one 1.3 mm hole in the bottoming cone. (in about the same place as one of the holes for the nylon check balls in the computer picture of the cone with the intakes.) The pressure inside the cartridge above the MV should normally always be higher than outside the cartridge and that would cause the oil to flow out through the hole at both compression and rebound. New cold and still oil would suck in through the BV and continously refresh the cartridge as you ride.
If you did not plug the piston spoke hole (if you have one? I do.) you'd likely get away with it by just tightening the rebound adjuster another few clicks.

Regards
 
A little less spike said:
as i understand it, the softer you make it the quicker you bottom out so i can't agree with you.

i don't know where you are on about with this 1.3mm hole?

is it the drilled hole across the tap or the hole up the middle of the tap?

anyway - i need a lot more rebound!

i'll think on it.

regards

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
as i understand it, the softer you make it the quicker you bottom out so i can't agree with you.
No, but you do understand the problem. We are talking about different speed domains. Harder on mid speed would translate to a little less dive. Softer on high speed (by being able to flex to the absolute max with all of the MV to give a maximum opening) would translate to a little less spike. I think...




If you have not seen the 1.3 mm hole you probably dont have it. I have them on my pistons and it is drilled through the wall between one rebound port through to the neighboring MV port, one in each piston. Like a deliberate leak. No idea why.



Thinking of it, the new hole in the cone would not only refresh the oil and distribute the heat produced. It would be a part of the low speed circuit too in both compression and rebound.

At low speed compression it'd work like the low speed clicker by-pass.

At mid speed compression the MV would rob pressure from it so it's by-pass effect would diminish as compression speed goes up.
(As opposed to the low speed clicker by-pass which would do the opposite. If they shared equal parts of the low speed work they would cancel out at high speed? I like it!)

At very high speed compression it could even suck in some oil instead, to quench the frothing a bit.

Edit:
holemoved.jpg
Wedging in this picture for clarity. End of Edit.
I'm getting tempted to start drilling!



Taffy said:
i'll think on it.
So will I.
Taffy said:
anyway - i need a lot more rebound!
You are running a two shim first stage BV, aren't you? That is what I had when getting the rebound phenomenon. Would you do the experiment to move the split shim down in the BV so that you get 3 or 4 shims in the first stage of the BV? Then tell us what it did to the rebound.
I liked the 2 shim first stage, ONLY reason I went to 3 shims was to get rebound.


Regards.
 
well either PM me a shim stack or put it uphere. to be honest there seems little point in concealing the work we're doing or at least i'd be miffed that after what i, si, lineaweaver have given away that others aren't quite so magnanamous....

i know about this drilled mod. i've already mentioned dangeroo0 once this week but i can't remember why? (i must be getting old!). he has already told mme of this tip. i'll find it and add it to this thread. what i used to do ktalk was PM a lot of the lads or follow a really good technical thread and then just cut 'n paste the paragraphs into a MS word document. easy-peasy lemon squeezy!

ok been and had a look in all my word docs and can't see it and now i think it sits there as a PM in ktalk and of course they're still down....

if i recall he said that i should get a truck load of 1mm drill bits because the piston material is so hard but that i should drill - as you say - between the ports. i WILL NOT SAY FOR SURE, but, i think he recommended 2/3 in each piston or = to one in each slice of the cake! reckoned it helped on all the small stuff!

i've got lots more i could test but i don't have the time at present. 10pm and just walked in....

as said either offer me a shim stack example or explain again the problem with my rebound as you see it?

regards

Taffy
 
Upper right is a curved MV backing that is adjustable on the tap and you lock it with a screw from the side. The side screw makes it impossible to use a single MV spring, you have to use two small ones and that is what the pockets are for.

Smorgasbord, I´ve thinking about your MV-Design and I could remember some "strange" spring-designs that a friend of mine showed me once.
As Taffy says:
 
Edit: Taffy, I have removed the suggestions regarding your stacks. It is totally pointless since I do not know for sure what you are running at the present and have never seen you on the bike in action or the terrain you are negotiating. Besides I've only tuned my own fork and have not the experience needed to give any advice. Take it to a reputable tuner if you have gone totally astray, not necessessarily a professional one. You deserve rebound damping too.
I can however say that I am surprised that you can combine such light compression stacks that I think you do with such a strong spring and hefty rider. I'm unusually skinny but have ADDED shims to the oem compression stacks to get it smooth in rocks and perky on the motocross course. It works surprisingly well now and it does not exhaust me any longer.
End of Edit.

It could be cartridge cavitation that is ruining your rebound damping. I think it did in my fork when I had too few shims in the BV.

This is how I think it works:
The maximum force the MV can produce without cartridge cavitation is defined by the BV. (And air gap pressure and oil viscosity and BV clicker setting, but let us not think of that for a moment)
How can I explain this easy? It is about balancing pressures.


Let us look at the compression phase, because that is where it happens:

The cartridge is pressurized by the piston rod displacing oil and the BV acts like a safety valve limiting the pressure by blowing off the excess oil.
A given BV combined with a given piston rod speed produces a given pressure above the BV.
You can control it in different ways, like changing the BV stack. A hard BV produces a high pressure, a weak BV produces a low pressure.

Ok, so you have got a given pressure above the BV at a given rod speed, this is the pressure you have, at the given rod speed cartridge pressure is defined by the BV.


Now look at the MV piston.
The MV works in the cartridge pressure.
The pressure above the BV was already given by the BV, the MV can not do anything about it.
As the MV moves down the cartridge at the given speed the oil have to flow through it.
The flow resistance through it causes a pressure difference in the flow.
The stiffer the MV the greater the pressure difference, weaker MV gives less pressure difference.
This MV pressure difference is independent of the cartridge pressure.
Only that the cartridge pressure have to be greater than the MV difference pressure or you get cavitation.

If the cartridge pressure is very low and the MV pressure difference is greater than that you are going to get negative pressure above the MV. Not.
Negative pressure is not possible and a void is forming. Cavitation.

You can avoid it by always keeping the cartridge pressure higher than the pressure difference produced by the MV. By weakening the pressure difference defined by the MV or by stregthening the cartridge pressure defined by the BV.



A thinner piston rod necessitates a higher cartridge pressure to give the desired damping and the fork get inherently more resistant to cavitation. They recently went from a 14 mm piston rod to a 12 mm piston rod in the forks. There must be a reason.


BTW, the 1,3 mm bleed holes are not a mod. They were in there from WP. Just as the preload adjusters. It was all standard on the 2000 model.


Gokai134,
I've seen the Smalley spring in the rekluse clutch but the clover spring, was new to me. Maybe they could be used for an active blow-off or something, where the MV stack can back off from the piston face. But I think you'd have to make a new tap for it. Thanks for the info.

Regards

Edit: I hesitated to include this picture since it is out of proportions. But here it is. It is just a concept anyway.

Edit:
I got some computer graphics on some "rejected" ideas, can just as well share them for the fun of it.

3bottoring.jpg

O-ring valve. Cheap components. But what happens if you get a new WP bushing? It will not fit! Not so good... I actually stole the valve idea from a camping air pump called Quickex. (http://www.quickex.com/)

2bottoring.jpg

The O-ring valve. Lots of intake ports, good flow.

1bottoring.jpg

The O-ring valve seen from inside the cartridge. The top out spring will hit the tabbed circlip. Ouch!
 
I have been thinking more about the former backed MV. It seems like one with a 12 mm radius will allow 50% more opening than the common MV. It would even allow thicker shims do do this without damage. No need for a pivot diameter.
Smorgasbord said:
The stress on shims of different thickness calculated at two different bend angles and radius of former, it's just all theoretical of course but could serve as an indicator of what to expect:
Modulus of elasticity = 210000N/mm2. Length of curvature = 24 mm (shim diameter).
30 deg bend from mid to edge. Lift = 3.1 mm. Radius of former = 22.9 mm. End-end = 22.9 mm.
Thickness mm / material stress would not exceed
0.1 mm / 458.149 N/mm2
0.11 mm / 503.964 N/mm2
0.127 mm / 581.849 N/mm2
0.15 mm / 687.223 N/mm2

45 deg bend from mid to edge. Lift = 4.5 mm. Radius of former = 15.3 mm. End-end = 21.6 mm.
Thickness mm / material stress would not exceed
0.1 mm / 687.223 N/mm2
0.11 mm / 755.946 N/mm2
0.127 mm / 872.774 N/mm2
0.15 mm / 1030.84 N/mm2


60 deg bend from mid to edge. Lift = 5.7 mm. Radius of former = 11.5 mm. End-end = 19.9 mm.
Thickness mm / material stress would not exceed
0.1 mm / 916.298 N/mm2
0.11 mm / 1007.9278 N/mm2
0.127 mm / 1163.6985 N/mm2
0.15 mm / 1374.4470 N/mm2

Then how much strain can the shim material take? I have not a clue!
You can get a clue regarding the better shim materials at http://www.smt.sandvik.com/strip/applications/springs
The hardened materials in their table are well above anything in my quote. Should be fine no matter what.

Regards
 
DampingChart1.jpg

How can they make the damping force to fold back so that it with increasing speed the force eventually reaches zero? I just don't understand it. Just look at curve A and B.
 
BV: 24, 16, 24, 22, 20, 18, 15, 11, [email protected]
MV: 23, 22, 20, 18, 16, 14 (was 23, 23, 18, 16, 14)
rebound: 24d x 4, 15, 20, 19, 18, 16, 14, 12, 11, [email protected] x 2, 16 @.25 (was lesss the 19 last time)
float: 1.1 (was 1.25mm last time)
.48 sprin5W oil
120mm air gap
5mm packing of which 2mm is preload
bike sag is a high 46mm
race sag is 68mm

all previous settings are in the brackets. i had just gone to the new shorter top out springs.

rebound out 15 clicks and compression is 25 out which is nearly all the way to get some slow speed pluchness for a race i did in the woods. normally it would be 22 out or so.

on a certain type of bump the bike would ping up.

the next idea was 0.8mm float. then maybe to look at this drilling mod but i have done just 3 meetings on the new frame of which 2 were in deep mud.

the rear shock is on extreme settings and works the best it ever has. lsc 28 out, rebound is 23 out, hsc is 2.5 of 3.5.

regards

Taffy
 
I wonder if you are not on the spring too much and too little on the hydraulics.
I'll think about it.
regards
 
mmmmm?

the way i measure it it was 310mm to 264mm on it's wheels to 243mm with me on it. the drop from 310 to 243 is a textbook 68mm (should be between 65 and 70mm) so that bit is great but it drops 46mm to get on it's wheels from wheels free. now explain that with HD .48 fork springs? it should have been more like 310 to 290mm.

i never mixed a 48 and a 46 but i guess i would if i had a second chance, as it was i sold the .46s quickly after the .48s arrived. the result of feeling an improvement.

regards

Taffy
 

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