myself not being one of them.... is there anothjer way to secure the flywheel to allow the removal of the nut, besides the "flywheel holder tool" refered to in the shop manual... thanks again for all the help
Jared
Jared
Joined Feb 2003
3K Posts | 384+
Escondido, Ca. USA
Jared:
Put the bike in the higest gear, 4th or 6th, and have a friend depress the rear brake lever. You can then either use an air (or electric) impact wrench or socket and long breaker bar to remove the flywheel retaining nut.
Here are some video clips for a yfz 450 aftermarket flywheel installation which may be helpful to you.
Flywheel removal part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Put the bike in the higest gear, 4th or 6th, and have a friend depress the rear brake lever. You can then either use an air (or electric) impact wrench or socket and long breaker bar to remove the flywheel retaining nut.
Here are some video clips for a yfz 450 aftermarket flywheel installation which may be helpful to you.
Flywheel removal part 1
Part 2
Part 3
With an air impact tool you will not even need to have a gear in. Even if the crank is loose the nut will come off.
But I guess you want a way to get it off without power tools.
Then, put it in gear as said, get a friend to apply rear brake.
Find a good ring 17mm key and a hammer.
(Remember that the nut is threaded the wrong way)
Apply some tension with the 17mm key and slam it with the hammer. After a few times it will loosen.
Daniel
www.supermotard-racing.com
But I guess you want a way to get it off without power tools.
Then, put it in gear as said, get a friend to apply rear brake.
Find a good ring 17mm key and a hammer.
(Remember that the nut is threaded the wrong way)
Apply some tension with the 17mm key and slam it with the hammer. After a few times it will loosen.
Daniel
www.supermotard-racing.com
Thanks guys for your help, worked like a charm.
so i found out why the bike just stopped working... the stator had come loose inside the flywheel housing 8O , busted two of the bolts that held it in place and the wires had become chaffed to the point that the shorted out on the case. so now i have to easyout two broken bolts small ones at that :evil: .
also. is it normal to see a bit of oil inside the stator housing? I realize that there is a seal on the crank but should i worry about just a small amount? it has never visibly leaked from the flywheel cover while riding.
should i use a little locktite when i put it back together to ensure this does not happen again?
so i found out why the bike just stopped working... the stator had come loose inside the flywheel housing 8O , busted two of the bolts that held it in place and the wires had become chaffed to the point that the shorted out on the case. so now i have to easyout two broken bolts small ones at that :evil: .
also. is it normal to see a bit of oil inside the stator housing? I realize that there is a seal on the crank but should i worry about just a small amount? it has never visibly leaked from the flywheel cover while riding.
should i use a little locktite when i put it back together to ensure this does not happen again?
Joined Jun 2001
1K Posts | 0+
Pasadena Ca.
Hi Risky1,
From your description of the teardown process you used, I would guess your Husaberg is a 98 or earlier model. Does it have electric start? Is it an FC model? Is it a 600?
The models with electric start had a rugged roller bearing on the flywheel end of the crank shaft, the non electric start models had a ball bearing there in place of the roller bearing. A high time engine, especially a non electric start 600, might start leaking there due to the bearing starting to wear out. See if you can move the end of the crank up and down. If it moves more than a couple of thousands of an inch, that may be the cause of your problem. The flywheel may have made contact with the stator due to a worn out bearing. If so, its rebuild time. If your stator wires are shorted out, you should check it out per the 'hard start manual. to make sure it is still ok. before putting it all back together.
Joe
From your description of the teardown process you used, I would guess your Husaberg is a 98 or earlier model. Does it have electric start? Is it an FC model? Is it a 600?
The models with electric start had a rugged roller bearing on the flywheel end of the crank shaft, the non electric start models had a ball bearing there in place of the roller bearing. A high time engine, especially a non electric start 600, might start leaking there due to the bearing starting to wear out. See if you can move the end of the crank up and down. If it moves more than a couple of thousands of an inch, that may be the cause of your problem. The flywheel may have made contact with the stator due to a worn out bearing. If so, its rebuild time. If your stator wires are shorted out, you should check it out per the 'hard start manual. to make sure it is still ok. before putting it all back together.
Joe
Thanks for your input. yes, it is a 98 with e-start. I can not feel or see any play what-so-ever at the end of the crank. and i really pushed and pulled hard. there is a seal similar to the front or real main seals on a standard motor but no bearing. there is a "guide bushing" as the manual calls it that lines up the stator to the case, that appears to be in good shape.
something had to have gone wrong. it must be the crank wobbling because i cant think of any other reason for the stator and bolts to be damaged like that. I cant use this stator because the movement had cracked and damaged the stator itself.
does anyone have any other ideas?
something had to have gone wrong. it must be the crank wobbling because i cant think of any other reason for the stator and bolts to be damaged like that. I cant use this stator because the movement had cracked and damaged the stator itself.
does anyone have any other ideas?
Joined Jun 2001
1K Posts | 0+
Pasadena Ca.
Look at the inside of the flywheel, and see if the magnets have started to work loose. If so, then they probably made contact with the stator causing the whole destruction process. This is a common failure. Husaberg sells the stator and flywheel as a matched pair.
Check with Dan Blum at Motoxotica for the parts. He is a sponsor of this web site and will give you a great deal on the parts. (707)446-4282
Joe
Check with Dan Blum at Motoxotica for the parts. He is a sponsor of this web site and will give you a great deal on the parts. (707)446-4282
Joe
WHen I removed my flywheel, I used a shock preload ring wrench to hold the flywheel. I have the kind you put on a regular 3/8 inch drive rachet. I secured it inplace with an old ignition cover bolt.
Well the magnets look good- they are not loose, although i can see some wear that i assume is from the screw heads because the screw heads were loaded with junk -looked almost as if it was fused together. the flywheel it self looks, from visual inspection, to be in fairly good shape. and I agree that Dan at Motoexotica is The Man!! I was succesful in getting the two broken bolts out and removing the stator. now since i can't find any play in the crank and the fly wheel looks somewhat used but still decent, I will try and reassemble the beast and get it running.
However, I have one more question. the stator wires, do they wrap around inside the housing or do I slide them through the grommett until they lead straight out of the hole. it seem that they were wrapped when i took it apart but they were also worn in a few spots so i dont know. the shop manual does not show this. infact the 98 shop manual i have showes the wire exiting on the opposite side of the housing. i assume this because the picture is from a non e-start.
However, I have one more question. the stator wires, do they wrap around inside the housing or do I slide them through the grommett until they lead straight out of the hole. it seem that they were wrapped when i took it apart but they were also worn in a few spots so i dont know. the shop manual does not show this. infact the 98 shop manual i have showes the wire exiting on the opposite side of the housing. i assume this because the picture is from a non e-start.
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