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Fitted R6 starter, still no go :(

Tamas

Tamas

Joined Nov 2012
170 Posts | 0+
Transilvania
I've been trying to get the e-start to work on my 650, mainly cause I had some knee problems after a "nice" fall and I've been having a tough time kicking it in, so I ordered a yam r6 starter from e-bay. Fitted it, hooked it up to a car battery since the original battery is small and had gone flat, aaaaaaaaaaaand nothing. I've adjusted valves just last week, also I fitted the stronger auto decomp spirng, and when the decomp lobe was pulled out it didnt have any wear on it, as far as I can tell. I would also like to mention that I couldn't really tell any difference between the 2 starter motors, performance wise, the yam starter couldnt turn it over better then the original. Pls tell me where am I going wrong on this, I would really like to start it on the button, my leg is killing me :((((

Ty, Tom
 
Tom

The problem is that the bike doesn't start because there is something wrong, or it doesn't start because the starter doesn't spin as it should ?

What I'm asking is if the bike starts well with the kick ?? :mrgreen:

:cheers:
ZAGA
 
The bike seems to start better when it's cold, I just pull the choke out and it starts on the first or second kick. When it's warm, sometimes it starts on the first kick, sometimes after 10 kicks, and the funny thing is that it sometimes starts with choke and sometimes whitout it. Today im getting the starter apart to see if there is something wrong with it. I'll post updates.
Cheers, Tom
 
Tom
The thing that is important is that you should not expect that this bike would start better with the starter than with the kick.
If it starts good with the kick, it should also start with the starter, but for me it's a re-starter, I never use the button in the first start, specialy to save the sprage.

Now you should look at the starter, I have bought mine from Taffy, but as far as I understood the solution is a mix of R6 with the original ?? don't know if that's correct ?

You can also check the wire that goes in to the starter, I've changed mine to a thicker one.

:cheers:
ZAGA
 
So today I could get it to start from e-start, but only from a car battery and only after 6-7 tries. I can imagine that it would eat up any kind of motorcycle battery by that time, soo this isn't an option :(. I dont know about mixing the two starters together, I didn't see anything about that in the owner's doc. I will change the wires tomorrow, I guess I will use the one which came with the R6 starter, it seems thick enough.
 
so does the starter actually crank the engine or does it slip when hitting the button and sometimes it actually cranks?
 
As far as I can tell it never slips, it cranks the engine very slowly, but if I use the manual decompressor lever together with the e-start, I can get it to start after a few tries. I believe the auto decomp isnt working correctly. But logically thinking if u use the manual decomp correctly it should start the engine, shouldn't it?
 
hmm, not familiar with the manual decomp as I have never had one on a husaberg and I am sure they are defferent between manufacturers. As far as using the manual decomp with the e-start though I am not sure how it would work, as far as I know the auto decomp bleeds off about 40% of the compression pressure but the manual valve bleeds all of it off.....so i would be like taking a manual transmission car and revving it up then dumping to clutch to get it to work? I could be wrong there I am really not familiar with the 650 and I know the starting system is different than mine I just saw you were online and seemed desperate so I thought I would try to help :D after re-reading your initaial posts it seems you have checked all I would know to tell you already.....good luck
 
U were quite right making a comparison between the decomp and a manual transmission car, and u can use the decomp to bleed the pressure slowly, not all at once, just like letting the clutch slip. I pulled the manual decompressor just enough to let the starter crank the engine but have enough compression to start up.
Ty m8, btw :)
 
on an '03, the starter problem was resolved, so an r6 starter, being basically the same, will not be any better than the original. mixing parts is also not necessary.
it seems that you have identified your problem: the autodecomp is not working correctly. you are saying it turns over faster using the manual decomp, but won't start that way? it won't start if the decomp is held, that's just a trick to get it spinning, and the release point to get it to catch is a random thing. you need to get the autodecomp to work. evidently there isn't enough lift on the left exhaust valve for some reason. wear on the tip of the decomp is common in the early (pre '04) units. also mixing the springs (early vs late) could be a problem. if the manual decomp actuator on the roght exhaust valve isn't deactivated when adjusting valves, it could be a problem. also you could be losing the cam follower bearing.
the best solution is to install a later "dutch clog" decomp ('04 up) with it's associated spring (you should already have the steel sprocket)
 
I did deactivated the manual decompressor when adjusting the valves. I do have the steel cam sprocket, also the cam follower bearings are new. Also how much lift should the decomp lobe make on the valves if it is not worn?
Cheers, Tom
 
Heres a test I think you should do - had similar problem on ours.

Leave the spark plug in the hole - pull off spark plug lead and install another plug into it. When your engine is cranking check if there is spark .

This was fooling us when we went to the R6 mod - had nice strong spark with plug out and testing - when plug was installed - no spark but it was impossible to know - after we did the test we conclude that even though engine is going through the cycle, it doesn't spark.

We beleive it is due to a weak stator - but I would prefer to hear others opinion on this.
 
That was on of the first things I checked since we also had that problem with a couple of ATVs in our offroad "adventure" group :)). The Husaberg still had strong spark while using e-starter.If I recall correctly, on the ATV, it was a faulty CDI that caused to have no spark.

Cheers, Tom
 
You didn't had spark with the hole closed, because with the compresion, you could not reach the minimum revs to make one.

The SEM needs one minimum rpm to make one sparks, if you can't get there you can turn the engine as much as you want and you will never start it.

:cheers:
ZAGA
 
The SEM needs one minimum rpm to make one sparks, if you can't get there you can turn the engine as much as you want and you will never start it.
Click to expand...
and that's why it's good to have a "Sparks rewind"!
 
Some folks claim that electric starters work better or at least at maximum efficiency if the starter motor is grounded directly to the frame. I personally add a heavy duty ground wire from the starter motor to the frame on all my E-start bikes.
 
I second that - we had ours ground to the motor and it turned over OK - but after we ground to the frame - now motor spins WAY faster.
 
Update :)

Finally managed to get the e-start working :D. It was the auto decomp system that need some fine tuning. In other words I was stupid or drunk when I put the spring in last time aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaand I put it in the wrong way. I honestly don't know what could have happened, anyways I guess we all make mistakes sometimes. Know it is working with the R6 starter and the original as well. So I guess I have a starter for sale if any of you guys are interested :))).

Thanks for all the help, I'm a bit embarrassed now, Tom
 

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