fitted new kickstart shaft

2nd,

Good job mate :wink: , I hope you were able to look through the pics I posted in my gallery... Here is one of the "dots alignment" on the two gears. At this time it would probably be good to disassemble and thoroughly clean your orbital oil pump and check your reed valve.

This next blog is for you to read, weigh, and decided for yourself.... I was having an issue with my bike "creeping" while idling and in gear. I was told to inspect all the clutch plates for warpage and replace if necessary. I did not find any warpage when I did my inspection but I did move the plates around after a good cleaning and oil bath soak. What I ended up doing was moving some of the inner clutch plates and steel plates to the outsides of the basket and then moving the outer plates to the inside. If you decide to do this be aware that out of the 7 clutch plates and 8 steel plates, 2 of them are thicker than the others. These are supposed to be on the outsides of the basket. All I did with these was clean, oil and flip them around. Clutch has no "creep" in it anymore.

One other good idea to do at this point is: The auto decomp lever that is actuated by the kickstart shaft is prone to oil leakage which can be a mess to clean up after rides. There are two philosophies on this, remove it completely and plug the hole. If you decide to go this route you will be using the manual decomp lever for starting purposes. I did not choose this option. The second idea is, place an O-ring on the shaft of the decomp lever on the outside of the case and this will aid in keeping the oil where it belongs.... the inside of the engine. I now have an O-ring on both sides of the engine casing, one on the inside of the motor, one on the outside. I still get some leaking but it is almost non-existent (denial). I used to have an oil platform mounted on the side of my rig and SHELL was drilling for crude in this region . If you have any other questions just ask, many people have done this mod and there are lots of pointers for you. Remember to think each step through before you forget something and you'll be fine. :wink:

Regards,

2nd,

Just though of a few more tips to throw at you. The paper O-ring for the transmission cover also has paper gasket material around the water jacket feed through port. You will need to trim a little paper from the inside area of this gasket with a razor as it will get sandwiched between the rubber o-ring and the mating surface and can allow coolant to leak into the oil. Also, if you have not read the workshop manual it tells you to apply a light coat of sealant to the gasket area of the transmission cover and case on the right side as you face the bike while fitting the cover back onto the bike. I did not do this and I have more leaking in this area than I have ever had before. I plan on fixing this but was going to try and do the cam chain and gear at the same time and have not gotten around to ordering these parts yet. While the bike is apart, now is a good time to learn about it. check things out and see what they do, the only thing is make sure the "dots" are aligned before reassembly. You really can't screw anything else up other than that....... well Im sure you could if you tried hard enough but you get my drift. :lol:

Regards,