Okay so when I’m at true tdc when the valves both open on the stroke and I turn the flywheel to the 9oclock mark no valves should move and should be both in the up position ?? Like I can turn the fly wheel back and forth and no valves will move and there both open (closed) is this right tdc??
First Valve adjustment best way to get tdc??
- Thread starter Chrisfe450canadian
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- 450fe adjustment tdc valve
Okay so when I’m at true tdc when the valves both open on the stroke and I turn the flywheel to the 9oclock mark no valves should move and should be both in the up position ?? Like I can turn the fly wheel back and forth and no valves will move and there both open (closed) is this right tdc??
Joined Jan 2019
64 Posts | 12+
Sweden
Yeah it should, be. Study this gif if it pops up, 2nd stroke on top is TDC when ignition occurs with both valves fully closed. You can see the CAMS in the GIF not pushing down and opening/ engageing valves. Again watch the YT videod and you will be good! I feel sorry for you as Taffy only seems to have confused the crap out of you lol. Compare your crank/cams and you will learn to see how it works.
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipe...Ortho_3D.gif/450px-4StrokeEngine_Ortho_3D.gif
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https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipe...Ortho_3D.gif/450px-4StrokeEngine_Ortho_3D.gif
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Ok thank you it came up, I’m pretty sure I got it in the right spot now thank you, so on the second stroke is when they are adjusted at tdc ? for adjusting is the 1/6 method accurate and good to do or am I better off getting a feeler gauge ?
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Ok thank you I'm gonna try and find a feeler gauge today just to be sure I'm doing it right I only have .012 and I'm pretty sure it says 0.12 I'm the manual so I think the one I have is the wrong size so gonna check the auto parts store today
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You might be confusing inch vs mm gauges
if you have a .012 gauge, that's inch and equal to 0.30mm
I have friends who have mixed that up before (I think spec on his bike was intake .004-.006 exhaust .006-.008 but stated in metric so intake .10mm-.15mm, exhaust .15mm-.20mm). He mistakenly used inch gauges with approximately the same number - setting intake to .012" and exhaust to .018", meaning both were fully double what they should have been.
I don't think he caused any real damage, as it made enough noise that he didn't run it long, but it's an easy mistake to make and frustrating having to open it back up and fix it.
if you have a .012 gauge, that's inch and equal to 0.30mm
I have friends who have mixed that up before (I think spec on his bike was intake .004-.006 exhaust .006-.008 but stated in metric so intake .10mm-.15mm, exhaust .15mm-.20mm). He mistakenly used inch gauges with approximately the same number - setting intake to .012" and exhaust to .018", meaning both were fully double what they should have been.
I don't think he caused any real damage, as it made enough noise that he didn't run it long, but it's an easy mistake to make and frustrating having to open it back up and fix it.
Joined Nov 2001
17K Posts | 773+
Ely, England
1/6th everytime. don't bother with feeler gauges.
and always make sure you can make a morse code with the rocker arm afterwards and that it can be heard by the rear number plate but no further. that will tell you whether you were a loose 1/6th or a tight 1/6th.
cheers
Taffy
Thanks what do you mean by Morse code with rocker arm? What exactly is that and the process behind it? Thanks
He means that you should be able to wiggle the rocker arm up and down enough to hear a significant click (similar to the clicks you hear in morse code)
Ok Ok thanks , i ordered feeler gauges there Gonna be in tomorrow I just got them to be sure I do the 1/6 turn properly and to see what the clearances were at. right now the exsaust side rockers wiggles a little more then my intake rockers would that mean the intake are tighter. I’m gonna work on it in the morning try and get it finished. My motor didn’t make any noticeable sounds or anything just I notice the decompression didn’t seem to be working properly and I hear it could be because the clearances being to tight is this true ? I just wanted to check valves cuz don’t think previous owner did anything to it. Bike only has 70 hours 2400km
Joined Nov 2001
17K Posts | 773+
Ely, England
you know a cam has a bump (lobe) right?
well the valve clearance is only there for when the rocker isn't on the bump - that means when it is going around 'the bottom'. this is called the 'base circle'.
the rocker arm can rock and just be slightly off the cam at one end or just off the tip of the valve at the other.
so if you were the end of the rocker arm your face would be like a ***-papers width away from a spinning cam.
now, let's just say that there is bump on the exhaust base circle and this lobe that with a biff....maybe you have sleeping policemen over there in USAland or road calming humps?
now if you have a big valve clearance because you think it is clever then the rocker will miss that bump as the gap leaves the rocker further away than the bump can reach.
if you don't get the bump, you don't get the decomp benefit; because the bump opens the exhaust valves and lets a fair bit of gas out and makes the compressable amount of mixture less in volume....meaning easier to compress.
so being "kind" to your engine and having a big exhaust valve clearance does the opposite of being 'kind'. it means the starter now faces full compression of all the gases inside. oh-phuqin-dear!
so always stick to the manufacturers recommended valve clearance - especially on the exhaust side.
Taffy
well the valve clearance is only there for when the rocker isn't on the bump - that means when it is going around 'the bottom'. this is called the 'base circle'.
the rocker arm can rock and just be slightly off the cam at one end or just off the tip of the valve at the other.
so if you were the end of the rocker arm your face would be like a ***-papers width away from a spinning cam.
now, let's just say that there is bump on the exhaust base circle and this lobe that with a biff....maybe you have sleeping policemen over there in USAland or road calming humps?
now if you have a big valve clearance because you think it is clever then the rocker will miss that bump as the gap leaves the rocker further away than the bump can reach.
if you don't get the bump, you don't get the decomp benefit; because the bump opens the exhaust valves and lets a fair bit of gas out and makes the compressable amount of mixture less in volume....meaning easier to compress.
so being "kind" to your engine and having a big exhaust valve clearance does the opposite of being 'kind'. it means the starter now faces full compression of all the gases inside. oh-phuqin-dear!
so always stick to the manufacturers recommended valve clearance - especially on the exhaust side.
Taffy
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Should the valve clearance be set a 0.10mm or 0.12mm ? On the wiki page of this site where it says how to adjust the valves it says to make sure the clearance is at 0.10mm and I also read in other places to set them at 0.12 mm anyone know what one is right ? I ordered 3 sets of feeler gauges and none of them have 0.12mm I only have 0.10mm I was thinking the clearance gets bigger as they wear out right ?? So is that why it say to set at 0.10mm and then they wouldn’t need to be adjusted untill the gap was bigger then 0.12mm ? Is that correct ?
I don't know Husabergs well enough to say but on most bikes, valves tighten up over time as there's more wear at the valve seat than there is at the valve stem/rocker.
What's the next size you have above .10mm? In my experience most sets come in .001" increments at that size - I'd expect you to have .0015"/.04mm, .002"/.05mm, .003"/.08mm, .004"/.10mm, .005"/.13mm, .006"/.15mm, and so on.
What's the next size you have above .10mm? In my experience most sets come in .001" increments at that size - I'd expect you to have .0015"/.04mm, .002"/.05mm, .003"/.08mm, .004"/.10mm, .005"/.13mm, .006"/.15mm, and so on.
I ended up doing the 1/6 method couldn’t fit a feeler gauge in really , I just got to put the rad on in the morning and then gonna see how it runs. Hopefully I did it right lol.
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That's frustrating.
https://smile.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W125C-Thickness-Gauge/dp/B0002KNZSC?sa-no-redirect=1 I think that's what I have, certainly something like that.
https://smile.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W125C-Thickness-Gauge/dp/B0002KNZSC?sa-no-redirect=1 I think that's what I have, certainly something like that.
Ya if any wired sounds I’ll just try again , I’m thinking about ordering the Ktm feeler gauge it’s a 0.12mm and comes with another one for adjusting the spark plug gap it was like $69 Canadian kinda pricey for a feeler gauge but I geuss worth it in the long run. I’ve heard good things about the 1/6 turn method and it looked easy enough to do so hopfully it works out for me I’ll post a update tomorrow on how it runs. I just didn’t wanna bring it to a shop to do the work $250 just for inspection to see what they were at and then more money per valve that needed adjustments so I didn’t go that rout.
That's pretty outrageously expensive IMO, even Canadian. I'd go to an auto parts store and make sure the set you're buying has .005"/.013mm
They'd really charge per valve on a screw adjust setup?
They'd really charge per valve on a screw adjust setup?
Well I got it all together and it started first kick the manual decomposition now works the way it should now and the motor didn’t make any strange sounds so I geuss I got the right tdc I used the 1/6 turn method for adjusting and before I adjusted the valves my engine would get hot very fast and now it seems to be running way cooler.. what’s the warm up time for these bikes I heard if you let them idle long they will over heat fast? Thanks everybody for helping me 
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