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First ride turns into last ride? Fe600e

Joined Nov 2017
11 Posts | 1+
Northern California
Fe600e no start - First ride turns into last ride?

Hey all,
I'm sorry if I posted it in the wrong place. I'm new to the forum and still figuring out how it all works.
So here's my story:
I just picked up a 2000 FE600E off of Craigslist. The guy I got it from said he had only ridden it a hand full of times while the bike was in his possession. When I purchased the bike we started/stopped it maybe four or five times in his drive way and I rode it up and down the street maybe two miles total. No problems.
I bring the bike home, it starts right up and I go for a little ride into and around town. 25/35mph speed limits, 15miles total, three stops/starts.
Heading home I turn onto my street going about 20mph and the bike starts to bog down like it's out of gas. Losses power when you twist the throttle, but when you let off it wants to idle just fine. I coast into my driveway with the bike idleing and hit the kill switch.
The next morning I come out and the bike won't start? I kick and kick and kick but get nothing? Hardly a pop. (Plenty of fuel in the tank.)
I pull the plug and find the porcelain cracked and overall in poor condition.
I put a new plug in (NGK DCPR8E, that's what was in it).
Kick her over and get nothing!
Pull the seat and air filter and find a puddle of fuel in the low spot of the air box? I dry it out, kick, nothing.
I turn the fuel off, choke off and kick it over with the decomp pulled in about ten times, turn the fuel on and kick and get a bang! And a puff of (what I'm assuming is) air/fuel fog/smoke out of the air box?
I kick her a few more times and every one in about ten kicks I get the bang backfire out of the air box and a puff of smoke/fog out of the air box/carburetor and the air box filling with fuel?
But that's it!? That's all I'm getting. It doesn't seem to be making it over that initial bang? It's like it's detonating with the intake valve open or somthing? I really don't know? It almost feels like it's sparking and kicking it backwards.
If I hold my hand over the end of the pipe I swear I can feel it suck in and barely puff anything out?

Sorry for the long post but I really don't know what's going on here? I have zero knowledge of Husabergs, I've been riding two strokes exclusively my entire life and this really has me worried.
Any help would be great!
I'm terrified it's a timing issue or somthing like that. The previous owner said it was running kinda rich he thought.
Anything to point me in the right direction would be a huge help!
I was planning on starting to pull it apart tommorow starting with the carburetor? I'm also curious what jets are in there, so that will be good to know.
Thanks in advance!
 
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Stator (as previously stated)
Broken valve spring (usually exhaust)
Crud in the float bowel sucked up into a jet
Timing chain jumped a tooth

Are you getting a nice fat blue spark? If not the stator is probably the culprit.

Put a thimble full of gas in the spark plug hole. If it starts and runs for a moment you know its a fuel/carb issue.
 
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I had a KTM actually wear out the clip groove on the needle. The clip came off and the needle dropped down into the needle jet. Did the same thing where it would only idle and would die the moment I cracked the throttle. And the only way to start it was to pull the choke...which was also how I got back to the truck.

I remember trying to start a Husaberg 600 engine that I bought off of Craigslist. I swapped it into a 501 that I had but could only get it to pop once in a while. I finally abandoned the stock Dellorto carb in favor of an Edelbrock Quicksilver I had from another bike. Then it fired right up an ran almost perfectly so, clearly, there was something wrong with the stock carb.

I would suggest pulling the carb apart and give it a good cleaning. Blow carb cleaner through all the jets and passages. Make sure the float valve is working correctly. The fuel we get these days goes bad within weeks.

Although, in my experience, your symptoms don't indicate a bad stator, it's worth testing anyway since they are a known weakness. Measure resistance: red to black about 1750 ohm, black to green about 23 ohm.

There are probably other things to check as well.
 
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Sounds like float stuck if air box has fuel in it check float and needle and seat still check for spark being careful not to catch bike on fire .
 
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Thanks everyone for the quick replies!
Stator is aparently a pretty common problem.
Thanks Thorgan for the specifics!
I'll pull the carb and give it a good cleaning and check it out for anomalies.

The backfiring thru the carb is the part that has me concerned.
I wish I had more knowledge of four strokes. I grew up on 100% 2-smokers, this is my first four stroke, maybe I should have started with somthing a little more basic. Haha
 
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I'm not overly concerned about the backfiring through the carb. I had an '87 Husqvarna TC510 back in the day and it would do this so violently once in a while that it would actually pop the carb out of the intake manifold. Not normally a problem until I was caught without my tools once. Had to find the proper shaped rock to loosen the clamp so I could push the carb back in.
 
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Thanks everyone for the quick replies!
Stator is aparently a pretty common problem.
Thanks Thorgan for the specifics!
I'll pull the carb and give it a good cleaning and check it out for anomalies.

The backfiring thru the carb is the part that has me concerned.
I wish I had more knowledge of four strokes. I grew up on 100% 2-smokers, this is my first four stroke, maybe I should have started with somthing a little more basic. Haha

Well, they are quite basic really :) It's a simple and in a way elegant motor design. Only one of everything and quite a reasonable setup. It's also a race-oriented and stripped design however, and it's hardly a spring chicken anymore, both of which will cause a slight uphill grade as you start out here :)

In my opinion it's worth it for sure, if you enjoy the work as much as I do and you're OK with funneling a little cash into this new hobby to start with.
 
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Ok, so I pulled the carburetor off last night and gave it a good once over. Other than being pretty dirty inside and out I didn't find anything that would keep the bike from starting.
I cleaned it up and put the carb back in the bike and gave her a couple kicks and continue to have the same results; no start but a good pop every 1 in 10 and kicks the kick lever back up pretty violently and gives me a puff of vapor out the air box.
With the seat and air filter off I can hear a pretty loud sucking noise kicking it over, and kicking it over with the decompose pulled. I swear it's not blowing anything out the tail pipe.
But now the kick starter won't engage?! It just makes a ratcheting sound from top to bottom. But won't turn the engine over? Great.....
 
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Well I pulled the clutch cover off and found about six teeth had been broken off the Kick Start Idle/Intermediate Gear. I'll need a new one of those and a gasket for the clutch cover. So that's fun... but it still doesn't explain my No Start issue. I haven't made it to the stator yet, guess I'll dig into that tomorrow..
Everything else looks good from what I can tell, since I have the cover off is there anything else I should do before I put everything back together with a new gasket??

Taffy thank you so much for that video! That's exactly what I needed! Definitly saved me atleast two hours of fiddling! Haha
 
well you can thank me for the video but it was husabutt that pointed you that way! while you are waiting then you want to get the values of the stator.

if you look at the 6 wires coming out of iit, you'll see a green, red and a black. use a multimeter between the green and blasck on the lowest ohm setting. you'll get 165ohms.

then go red to black and go to the 20,000 ohms setting and you'll see a very quick flash reading and then all you'll see is '1'.

regards

Taffy
 
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well you can thank me for the video but it was husabutt that pointed you that way! while you are waiting then you want to get the values of the stator.

if you look at the 6 wires coming out of iit, you'll see a green, red and a black. use a multimeter between the green and blasck on the lowest ohm setting. you'll get 165ohms.

then go red to black and go to the 20,000 ohms setting and you'll see a very quick flash reading and then all you'll see is '1'.

regards

Taffy

True, thanks Husabutt for the links!

Taffy,
Are those the values I want to/should be seeing? Can I test the stator in the bike or do I need to pull it off to check?

Also since I lost my kickstart idle/intermediate gear, can I pull it off and run the bike solely off the electric start? Just so I can see if I can get the bike running while I look for a replacement?
It looks like it wouldn't bother it missing that gear, I just couldn't use the kickstart?
How do you think the teeth got broken off the gear? The bike would fire occasionally and kick the starter lever back pretty violently. Would that cause it? It's several teeth. I wish I could figure out how to post pictures.
 
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you can test the stator on or off the bike.

yes you can run without the kickstart stuff BUT Husabergs have a tendancy to slip on the starter motor gears and if you keep hitting the button and listening to it 'whizz' then you are damaging the sprague.

get the proper kit and fit it.

Taffy
 
Okay. Most likely stator....replace it as you will have to sometime anyway. ...best to get it rewound if faulty....The rewind people will know how to check it. Check that the decompression wire is not too tight. .ie the valve is closing....check that carbi boot not split behind the hose clamp...common on that 600 when backfire....only kick over from just after top dead centre otherwise that 600 that sounds like kick only will not start. Don't worry too much about the kick starter problem....take cover of and check little engagement pall that may be broken. once fixed only kick over once you have decompressed and slowly kicked piston just after tdc. Once it gets going make sure you don't flip it....most powerful light weight berg.
 
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Okay. Most likely stator....replace it as you will have to sometime anyway. ...best to get it rewound if faulty....The rewind people will know how to check it. Check that the decompression wire is not too tight. .ie the valve is closing....check that carbi boot not split behind the hose clamp...common on that 600 when backfire....only kick over from just after top dead centre otherwise that 600 that sounds like kick only will not start. Don't worry too much about the kick starter problem....take cover of and check little engagement pall that may be broken. once fixed only kick over once you have decompressed and slowly kicked piston just after tdc. Once it gets going make sure you don't flip it....most powerful light weight berg.
Just a knousy question here. Most powerful light weight berg? How would it compare to 08 Fe 650? Any idea?
 
the 650 has more power but the 600 will have more torque due to its long stroke and MX cam. the engine is about 5kg lighter but not sure about the overall package.

Taffy
 
Okay. Most likely stator....replace it as you will have to sometime anyway. ...best to get it rewound if faulty....The rewind people will know how to check it. Check that the decompression wire is not too tight. .ie the valve is closing....check that carbi boot not split behind the hose clamp...common on that 600 when backfire....only kick over from just after top dead centre otherwise that 600 that sounds like kick only will not start. Don't worry too much about the kick starter problem....take cover of and check little engagement pall that may be broken. once fixed only kick over once you have decompressed and slowly kicked piston just after tdc. Once it gets going make sure you don't flip it....most powerful light weight berg.

Thanks for your input fe600racer!
I'm with everyone else in thinking it's probably gonna be the stator. Although I have not tested it yet.
I'm getting very little spark if any, but it is there? Is there any way to test the rectifier and the regulator? What should I be looking for with them if I can?
So is re-winding the stator an option? I'd really like to avoid having to buy a new one. I have found a couple replacements, both new and used. Does anyone know the actual part number or anything? I just want to make sure I get the right one. Looks like about $250 with shipping. Yikes!
 
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