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First berg/first ride questions.

Joined Apr 2004
13 Posts | 0+
B.C. Canada
I have been checking this site daily since I decided to buy a Berg, it should arrive next week. I am buying an 02 400 fe and want to make sure I break it in properly. I am assuming a couple of hours easy riding and then check/adjust valves and do an oil change. Any other recommendations? I will spend most of the time on dirt roads, trails and a bit of track.
Thanks.
 
Ride it as you would normally ride it (not too easy). Try to refrain from deep sand and drag racing the first time out. I would recommend changing the oil after every ride untill the oil screen is free of metal debris.
Good luck, have fun and welcome aboard.
 
firstberg;
dont;
1-baby the motor
2-hold the rpm steady for for any length of time
3-shut the bike off super hot
4-use the existing oil that comes in the bike

do;
1-run it strong, dont beat it just run strong
2-vary the rpm's --not too low and not too high
3-run the bike moderately before shutting it off
4-change the oil and use 5-50 full synthetic as per manufacture spec.


have fun.
tuts
 
same model as mine. give me your e-mail address and i'll send you a document of what i've done to mine.

Taffy
 
Congratulations I bought my 02 400e only four weeks ago. Goes like stink. Dont forget to check your airfilter in real dusty conditions. Here in the Susnet country of Australia our dust is very fine and it doesnt take long until we need to change them. About every 2 rides. As the other guys have stated use good oil.

Taffy you got icq going yet.
 
yes i'm on it. just about to go out. try me sometime and explain what i've got here!

Taffy
 
tuts said:
firstberg;
dont;
1-baby the motor
2-hold the rpm steady for for any length of time
3-shut the bike off super hot
4-use the existing oil that comes in the bike

do;
1-run it strong, dont beat it just run strong
2-vary the rpm's --not too low and not too high
3-run the bike moderately before shutting it off
4-change the oil and use 5-50 full synthetic as per manufacture spec.


have fun.
tuts

I agree, but disagree. I recommend doing the above, but changing slightly.
- (Don't)'s good as is.
- Do's(Recommended changes below):
3- Run the bike in sessions of about 15-20 min. Try to keep the throttle in the following positions. Exceeding these positions is okay, but do not run sustained.
- 1st session 0-1/3 throttle
- 2nd 0-2/3 throttle
- 3rd 0-full throttle
This format is used to heat cycle the motor. Not running the bike under a load to begin with(Sand, mud, or hills) and slowly increasing the sustained rpm's helps to slowly raise engine temps. The period of run in time and a corresponding cool down is the cycling.
4-I recommend running standard oil and not synthetic, at least to begin with. Dale's recommendation of Chevron Delo 15-40W is an excellent choice. It is also good for the life of the motor. It is cheap and as often as the oil should be changed it shouldn't have time to break down.
 
dont they come with Motorex in them now? Thats what ive been using lately. I work at a bike shop, so I get it cheap. otherwise it would be delo 400 from walmart for me!
 
Thanks for all the info guys, I will follow your recommendations as soon as the bike gets here.
 
PowerFiend said:
.........Do's(Recommended changes below):
3- Run the bike in sessions of about 15-20 min. Try to keep the throttle in the following positions. Exceeding these positions is okay, but do not run sustained.
- 1st session 0-1/3 throttle
- 2nd 0-2/3 throttle
- 3rd 0-full throttle
.....

powerfiend;
imho the rings get 1 shot to seat. once the bike cools down and is restarted you are only seating the rings very little if at all. i maybe wrong but i have seen this on chevy motors alot. babied motors never reach their full potential. wrt oil....i might agree to use a mineral oil for the first run to help with the breakin...after that i'd stick with the recommended oil.
tuts
 
Tighten the valve cover allen screws (2) and check them routinely until they settle in. Also check the spark plug as it will also tend to loosen at first (at least mine did). To tighten or change the plug easily: take the seat off first, undo the shrouds at the tank and just lift the gas tank a little to gain some room to work.

Congrats

Husabutt
 
tuts said:
PowerFiend said:
.........Do's(Recommended changes below):
3- Run the bike in sessions of about 15-20 min. Try to keep the throttle in the following positions. Exceeding these positions is okay, but do not run sustained.
- 1st session 0-1/3 throttle
- 2nd 0-2/3 throttle
- 3rd 0-full throttle
.....

powerfiend;
imho the rings get 1 shot to seat. once the bike cools down and is restarted you are only seating the rings very little if at all. i maybe wrong but i have seen this on chevy motors alot. babied motors never reach their full potential. wrt oil....i might agree to use a mineral oil for the first run to help with the breakin...after that i'd stick with the recommended oil.
tuts

You are actually probably closer to being correct. Ignore my phased approach and read the following(Track approach):
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
 
Use normal oil for breakin the first coupple of times. After that go to a full synthetic (mobil! 15-50 race oil full synthetic). If you go with a full synthetic off the batt it wont brek in. They clame with the new motor and oil it will but I dont belive them. Also modderet riding and very rpm's. Not to high and not to low. Do that for a coupple of rides then your ready to open her up and race! Congrats on the new bike!
 
I think most people put to much thought in this whole break in deal. I say just ring her out good. Ride it like you will race it! Change the oil every ride for the first couple rides. (clean oil is good oil) And dont forget to check those valves after break in....
 
Bad idea. Parts need to be broken in. That way they match up and dont wear out fast. If you dont break in properly then you risk the chance of premature failure and extra stress and wear on the motor.
 
tuts said:
firstberg;
dont;
1-baby the motor
2-hold the rpm steady for for any length of time
3-shut the bike off super hot
4-use the existing oil that comes in the bike

do;
1-run it strong, dont beat it just run strong
2-vary the rpm's --not too low and not too high
3-run the bike moderately before shutting it off
4-change the oil and use 5-50 full synthetic as per manufacture spec.


have fun.
tuts


I agree...that`s the way to do it....also take a close look to the spark plug....tighten up everything with the torque wrench to the specified torque.....take a close look to all hose clamps underneath your tank, so that they don`t rub against it and you get a leak (remember: the tank is moving during riding!).....drain the ignition (I have a Mj `00...i don`t know if newer modellyears have to do tha!) after cleaning.........and go!!!!!


ride.race.live

Husaberg 600 `00
Keihin FCR 41
Tolksdorf Racing Suspension
Black EXCEL Rims
 
Looks like I am going with an 03 400 instead of the 02 with updates. The price is very similar, and from what I have read, it looks like there were a few advancement between 02 and 03. I will break this one in taking all your advice. It should arrive end of next week..........I hope. I was expecting a bike this week.
Thanks for the help so far...........there will be many more questions along the way.
 
woohoo!

ive got an 02 fe400e and im in seattle, not too far away from you!

let me know if youre ever down this way, ill be up in BC on june 9th for afew days :)
 
firstberg said:
Looks like I am going with an 03 400 instead of the 02 with updates. The price is very similar, and from what I have read, it looks like there were a few advancement between 02 and 03. I will break this one in taking all your advice. It should arrive end of next week..........I hope. I was expecting a bike this week.
Thanks for the help so far...........there will be many more questions along the way.

If that is the case, and your side of the pond made the same changes as the UK did for 03, your bike will arrive with a liter of running in oil - check this with your dealer though!.

Therefore, your running in procedure will need to be modified slightly. The first riding session should be no more than 20 minutes under normal riding conditions but without either lugging or overevving, but still give the engine some stick and through all the gears.

After this you can run with a semi-synthetic oil, increasing the change intervals. first 30min after changing from running in oil, then 45 minutes, then 1hour up to 2 hours. It is also advisable to change oil filters a couple of times during this perios too. After a couple of hours riding you'll be able to go full chat!

The number of oil changes is to flush out debris from the running in period rather than anything else..........

HTH
Simon
 

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