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FE570S: Lots of metal on oildrain plug magnet

Joined Jul 2011
25 Posts | 0+
La Tuque, Quebec, Canada
My bike is a 2011 FE570S with 87 hours and about 3200 miles, mostly off road at high throttle...

This is what I had in my oil change this afternoon. Please note that there were metal parts everywhere:

Oil plug magnet
Oil screen near thew oil plug magnet
Banjo bolt oil screen in the engine head
Around the oil filter

Here's how it looks:

Husaberg-Problem1_zpseed90b0c.jpg


Husaberg-Problem2_zpsf5d793e4.jpg


There we very tiny parts in the oil everywhere:

Husaberg-Problem3_zpsed826cfa.jpg


I'm using Motul 300V oil. Last oil change was at 75 hours, so about 12 hours and 500 miles before...

I'm pretty sure that my cam chain tensionner broke during my last ride. The engine suddenly made a weird noise, just like a loose cam chain... I rode the bike for 5 minutes at low speed and idle to get back home and that's it...

Is this normal ?
Where should I look first and what can be the trouble ?
 
As you know that is to much metal on the magnet
some thing is failing in the engine
Start with the easy parts to check.
I think you said you had metal at the top screen in the head, not good!
Check valve clearance, roll, the roller 1/4 turn and check again keep doing this for a full turn, sometimes excessive clearance tells you of roller pin and needle wear.
Rocker arm rollers , rollers pin wear is hard to check for wear you might have to carefully disassemble the rocker, use care, check the cam and cam bearings for wear.
If you have metal in the top of the engine your problem is most likely in the valve train
If no problem in the top end pull your clutch cover, check all parts
Check the generator for rubbing, you would probably hear that problem
just a few ideas!
I have over 16,000 miles on my 2010 FE570
My magnet and screen are spot less no metal at 600 to 800 mile oil change intervals.
 
Thanks for the idea... I'll open the engine and take a good look into that.

I always use my clutch for shifting gears, up or down...

It's in the banjo bolt in the head that I had LESS metal parts. Way less than everywhere else in fact... I'm not so sure that my problem is at the top... I opened the top and everything looks OK. My cam chain tensionner was fully open and it's not working well... Maybe it's one explanation. I ordered a DJH CCT, so this should be OK.

I opened the left side cover and found other very small metal parts:

Husaberg-Problem4_zps521e606b.jpg


Husaberg-Problem5_zps4f28ab2b.jpg


Guess I'll have to take out the engine and perform a big surgery !!!
 
I pulled the flywheel out, brought a friend mechanic home and all the timing train is OK. There's nothing wrong with the top end of the engine...

We pulled the clutch plates out and by turning slowly the transmission, we can feel a bit of restriction in the motion... Maybe it's small metal parts left, maybe it's worse...

Anyway, I have my head gasket to change (see my other post) and I'll open the transmission to look into it...

Question 1: Do I need to remove the engine from the frame to change the head gasket ?
Question 2: Do I need to remove the engine from the frame to work in the transmission ?

I'll keep you posted in a few weeks... :angry: :angry: :angry:
 
Yes you can replace the head gasket with the motor in the frame. I would deck both surfaces to be sure, the valves must come out to deck the head. I used a copper head gasket on my 570 and 610 motors with success. The motor must come out for transmission servicing :( this will make replacing the head gasket much easier :D
 
I'll keep you posted... I'll open the engine in the next few weeks...
 
OK, here we go:

First, I had an engine support made by a local shop to work on my baby:

FE570_1_zpscfbca836.jpg


Followed the shop manual engine disassembly until I reached the piston. I found some rubbing between the piston and the cylinder. There's a bit of rubbing on top, a bit more on the bottom and no rubbing on the sides... This cannot explain the huge amount of metal parts in my oil...

Rubbing on top of piston:
FE570_2_zps3652350a.jpg


Rubbing on bottom of piston:
FE570_3_zpsbcf63325.jpg


Cylinder bottom:
FE570_4_zpsecb1d1be.jpg


Cylinder side:
FE570_5_zps683fd9fb.jpg


I can't feel a thing when I scrub the cylinder with my finger. The rubbing is very gentle and I can't feel no slots... Maybe there's a bit of metal parts coming from there, but nothing to fill the magnet plug completely...

QUESTION 1: Is it normal ???

QUESTION 2: Should I change my cylinder and piston ???

No traces of metal parts anywhere in the top end, the cylinder/piston and on the crank:

Crank:
FE570_6_zps9a30b7b3.jpg


Camshaft:
FE570_7_zps083c491f.jpg


Rocker amrs:
FE570_8_zps902b8fca.jpg


I'll disassemble a bit more tomorrow, unless you tell me that I've already found the trouble... But I don't think so... For now, I just need to know that my cylinder/piston kit is OK...

Thanks ! Tom
 
Mmmm? The piston is non ferrous, so no magnet pick up from aluminium swarf.
With the top end removed as it is now, can you turn it over.. Holding the con rod and ensuring the cam chain is not snagged ! With A socket on the crank nut or ring spanner..
Also holding the con rod, can you feel lateral play..not smooth rotation.. Moving out of round... Your looking for play in the bottom end. All that swarf is more like bearing shell debris !!! Possibly the mains on the crank..
The pick up on the piston could be heat seizure or oil with steel swarf got thrown up the bore??
The cam looks like its also been a bit too hot at the bearing end
Many moons back I rebuilt a Kim that had heat seized at speed.. The oil pump that sprays up the bore had stopped.. A cheap bit of plastic caused devastation of the bank balance and engine..
Once you have identified the fault you need to determine the cause... General wear and tear or mechanical failure.. Or both..
You need to wash out the full lot with paraffin and an an air gun.. Not to shoot yourself, but to blow out all the crud..
The cylinder bore, if not badl scored might be saved??? Buy a glaze buster and spin it up and down the bore.. It's worth a go.. But the piston and rings are beyond repair..
You need surgeons fingers and feel to nurse this back to health..
Check your manual for a lubrication diagram.. And also the bearing specs as these can be sourced at a good engineering supplier cheaper than branded supply's.
sorry mate but it looks like a complete strip down.. But at least you'll know you took every step to cure it properly.
And if the cam chain tensioner let go, I reckon it would have been knocking itself to death..
 
You have something in the engine going bad, throwing metal into the cylinder area of the engine, your oil filter should trap some of the metal trash if the metal is coming from the transmission area,your oil screen along with the drain plug, the oil screen should of been covered with metal??
The metal on the magnet is not from the cylinder.
With the scoring on the piston you should check your rod bearing and main bearing carefully for damage, they can be difficult to check when they just start to go bad, they will throw trash(metal) into the cylinder before the oil filter traps it and damage the cylinder and piston just as your picture shows.
Your piston is junk, don't use it, it will have metal inbedded in the thrust surface
Have your cylinder honed, at a professional automotive machine shop that has diamond precision honing equipment such as a Sunnen honing machine, this is very important for proper ring bedding. BE sure to use a diamond hone.
If there are ANY scores in the cylinder after a light hone(hone no more than .0002") have the cylinder replated or buy a new cylinder and piston as a match set, very expensive.
Check your oil filter, cut it apart and check the pleats for metal
Check your oil pump gears, both pumps.
Is there damage to the top of the piston, looks weird in the picture.
All the oil jets and passage ways need to be cleaned, the engine need to be cleaner than a hospital operating room before assemble!!
keep us informed of what you fine
 
Great Pictures.
It's not my field of expertise, so I shouldn't comment, but when I looked at the piston marks I first thought it looks like it ran out of oil or was over heated.
I also read on a thread ages ago of clutch material blocking an oil gallery or oil squirter. I will see if I can find it.

Thanks for all the pictures.
 
Hi Davo
That was one of my post on the clutch fiber on the oil screen causing low oil pressure.
It did cause the piston to have a slight seizure from over heating.
It looks like the scoring on this piston is from metal contamination, like it's been sanded with 40 grit sand paper, Not overheating.
I'll be interested to hear what he finds the problem is.
 
Hi guys,

The crankshaft is the problem... I have a huge gap (about 1/16'') when I move the connecting rod up and down. I can cleary feel it... I'll get to the crankshaft later this week since I don't have a lot of time these days.

Now, from what I know:

I need a new piston: About 500$ US with shipping
I need a new crankshaft: About 1250$ US with shipping or the connecting rod repair kit: About 450$ US with shipping
I need new gaskets, etc.
So I'm at least over 1000$ up to 2000$ on this...

Do you have any other suggestions on aftermarket piston and crankshaft...? I've seen that Thumper Racing have a high compression piston kit for 325$ US... Is it OK ?

I'm trying to lower my repair cost as much as I can without compromising the reliability...!
 
Re the crank... Lets not give it the kiss of death just yet.. :lol:
The piston and seal kit.. Kick the arse out of the tinta web and this site plus others.. Taffmeister ships all over the planet :D
Even the tax dodge of havin it shipped private from a friend abroad as a gift.. 8O
We await more news from the operating theatre.....
 
The piston kit from thumper racing is most probably a CP unit and high quality so I'd go for that, it would pay to scrutinise your main bearings as well due to the amount of metal thrown out by the failed big end.
 
I do big end pin and bearing kits so that is a cheap option, but I'd expect the inside of the rod to be run as well I'm afraid! but for the big end to go it sounds like the oil began to break down.

regards

Taffy
 
Pictures were gone... Here they are:

Husaberg-Problem5_zps4f28ab2b.jpg


Husaberg-Problem2_zpsf5d793e4.jpg


FE570_5_zps683fd9fb.jpg


FE570_4_zpsecb1d1be.jpg


FE570_3_zpsbcf63325.jpg


FE570_1_zpscfbca836.jpg



The parts were sent to Travis at Thumper Racing. I should get the this week. The failure happened in the crank bearings...
 
i was going to say: the only way you can get metal shavings on the ignition pick-up is if the mains have gone..... (1st photo)

anyway, you got there.

regards

Taffy
 

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