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Fe570 2012 dead fuel pump?

H

Husaboy97

Joined Aug 2017
13 Posts | 0+
Norway
Hi, after riding my Husaberg FE570 for about 2 hours yesterday it started to run lean, I tried to fix this by redoing the Grease around the air filter seals.
After that the bike seemed fine again, but after about 1 hour it started to fuel cut and sputter/back fire :eek: After stopping the bike and rechecking the air filter the bike would not start. I can comfirm that the fuel pump does not prime at all, but the wierd part is that the FI light is giving the Fault code for a bad Coolant sensor? :eek: Anyone have any idea why this is happening? My plan now is to replace the pump, but i was just really confused why the FI light is signaling for the Coolant sensor :p.
Anyone have any idea what it could be, or what i should check? :)
Thanks for all answers :D
 
As a counter measure, have you ever cleaned your injector and changed the thimble filter at the injector?
 
Alan said:
As a counter measure, have you ever cleaned your injector and changed the thimble filter at the injector?
Click to expand...

No :( Yesterday was my first time riding the bike after buying it :unsure:
Is changing the pump and filter alot of work? I have started considering just delivering the bike to a local KTM dealer, and having them check the bike :happy:
Also today when trying to start the bike, the FI light did 1 long blink and 1 short?:eek:Cant seem to find any codes that fit that :eek:
 
Alan said:
As a counter measure, have you ever cleaned your injector and changed the thimble filter at the injector?
Click to expand...
No :( Yesterday was my first time riding it after i bought it :unsure:
Now the FI light blinkes 1 long and 1 short blink? Not a code listed in the user manual :confused:
 
If it were me, I'd start by replacing all the filters. Pull up the injector and clean it. At this point you know your filtering is up to scratch. I bought another quick disconnect off eBay so I could fit one end to drain into a container. Hit the start button and see if you get fuel.

These things are usually a process of elimination and you might as well start with those that need servicing.
 
so the diagnostic tells you coolant sensor, but you want to change the fuel pump?
Thats funny.

thanks for the morning laugh !
Not sure why I was thinking along the lines of
Check coolant level
replace sensor
check wiring integrity

PS do you have 13+ volts on the battery ? its not dying before it finishes the fault code flash is it?
 
Last edited:
Alan said:
If it were me, I'd start by replacing all the filters. Pull up the injector and clean it. At this point you know your filtering is up to scratch. I bought another quick disconnect off eBay so I could fit one end to drain into a container. Hit the start button and see if you get fuel.

These things are usually a process of elimination and you might as well start with those that need servicing.
Click to expand...

Yeah i plan to do all that, the thing is just that the pump is dead as well, so im 99% it needs to be changed as well :unsure:

[Edit] After double checking the battery does seem to cut of before the FI light is done flashing
 
Last edited:
383hq said:
so the diagnostic tells you coolant sensor, but you want to change the fuel pump?
Thats funny.

thanks for the morning laugh !
Not sure why I was thinking along the lines of
Check coolant level
replace sensor
check wiring integrity

PS do you have 13+ volts on the battery ? its not dying before it finishes the fault code flash is it?
Click to expand...

Haha :eek: The reason why im pointing towards the pump being the problem maker is because its dead, as in not priming or making any sounds. The FI light does no longer give the Code for the coolant sensor, it now signals a code that does not exist(1 long blink and 1 short) :furious:
I have checked the Coolant sensor and liquid level :happy:
 
383hq said:
so the diagnostic tells you coolant sensor, but you want to change the fuel pump?
Thats funny.

thanks for the morning laugh !
Not sure why I was thinking along the lines of
Check coolant level
replace sensor
check wiring integrity

PS do you have 13+ volts on the battery ? its not dying before it finishes the fault code flash is it?
Click to expand...

After a double check It seems like the battery cuts of before the FI light is done flashing :eek: I also spotted that one of the terminals is really messed up:eek: Although it seems to have alright contact since im able to turn the motor over all the way until the battery is dead.
 
Last edited:
383hq said:
so the diagnostic tells you coolant sensor, but you want to change the fuel pump?
Thats funny.

thanks for the morning laugh !
Not sure why I was thinking along the lines of
Check coolant level
replace sensor
check wiring integrity

PS do you have 13+ volts on the battery ? its not dying before it finishes the fault code flash is it?
Click to expand...

If you read his post better it may have prevented you from being a smart arse...maybe not.
 
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"There is a 6 pin plug under the seat that is not connected to anything. Take the cover off the plug. Short out Pins 5 (Black/White Colour wire) and Pins 6 (Brown Colour wire). That will turn the ignition on and fire the EFI ECU up. This must be what the XC1 tool does as it plugs into that connector.
You can do a test first and pull out Fuse 2 (Fuel Pump Fuse) before shorting out pins 5 and 6 and you will see the FI Light flash the Fuel Pump error."
 
"If you read his post better it may have prevented you from being a smart arse...maybe not"

Unlikely, given a battery at 9-10v will give the above issue, (and of course in all of the internets' history, no one has ever overlooked the obvious during online diagnostics)

But feel free to carry on with your humourless efforts- At least your second post added some value. Unlike Mine !
 
Last edited:
Alan said:
"There is a 6 pin plug under the seat that is not connected to anything. Take the cover off the plug. Short out Pins 5 (Black/White Colour wire) and Pins 6 (Brown Colour wire). That will turn the ignition on and fire the EFI ECU up. This must be what the XC1 tool does as it plugs into that connector.
You can do a test first and pull out Fuse 2 (Fuel Pump Fuse) before shorting out pins 5 and 6 and you will see the FI Light flash the Fuel Pump error."
Click to expand...

I got the bike running yesterday :D after checking wires and voltages across the wiering around the battery. I found out that the plug for the injector was faulty as it didn't give off any voltage:happy:after jerking the wiers going into the connector the pump came alive again :) after taking it for a spinn it started to fuel cut and sputter again after about an hour:furious: instantly I checked the connector again but it was fine, and the pump was still active:unsure: after this I decided I'm just going to deliver it to a local Ktm dealer and have them diagnose the bike :happy: even tho I'm sure it's just the injector or the pump running warm and swelling :eek: but thanks for the help anyway :)
 
383hq said:
"If you read his post better it may have prevented you from being a smart arse...maybe not"

Unlikely, given a battery at 9-10v will give the above issue, (and of course in all of the internets' history, no one has ever overlooked the obvious during online diagnostics)

But feel free to carry on with your humourless efforts- At least your second post added some value. Unlike Mine !
Click to expand...

It's all good:happy: the battery gives off 13 volts so the battery is ok voltage wise, the terminal is a different story :p I had to use a flat head to shape the terminal so it would fit the terminal nut:eek: seems like the previous owner fought it with a hammer :giggle: but I got a spare battery that I'm puttting inn over the weekend :happy:
The bike is being delivered to the local Ktm dealer next Monday :happy: so now I'm just crossing my fingers it's just the pump or injector :eek:
But thanks for the help anyway :)
 
could be the plug or earths, but don't discount the wiring harness - harnesses are tight, wires and wire connections become compromised over time.

i.e. the Yellow and red feed is a common failure, it joins in two different places, and as they work loose the problem becomes intermittent -where it works loose over time it starts to act like a resistor until it breaks properly and stops completely
 
Last edited:
383hq said:
could be the plug or earths, but don't discount the wiring harness - harnesses are tight, wires and wire connections become compromised over time.

i.e. the Yellow and red feed is a common failure, it joins in two different places, and as they work loose the problem becomes intermittent -where it works loose over time it starts to act like a resistor until it breaks properly and stops completely
Click to expand...

Yeah when it comes to wiring im not going to remove or do anything, i leave that to the people at KTM :p but all symptoms point towards the pump/fuel system to be the problem, but who knows :( Im just crossing my fingers that it wont be anything severe :unsure: but thanks for the suggestion :)
 

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